brass came

I've tried and gone through Dremels, Ryobi,Craftsman,B & D Wizards. My
B & D RTX (I think) is starting to go, but it's still my favorite to
date. The problem with all these tools is that the air intake
(cooling) is in the front of the tool near the bits and all the crap
that you cut and grind gets sucked into the motor.

"vic" wrote in message
om...
I've tried and gone through Dremels, Ryobi,Craftsman,B & D Wizards. My
B & D RTX (I think) is starting to go, but it's still my favorite to
date. The problem with all these tools is that the air intake
(cooling) is in the front of the tool near the bits and all the crap
that you cut and grind gets sucked into the motor.

Whichever tool you use, be sure and get the little bushings that go between
the motor shaft and the drive shaft, those wear quite quickly if you use it
much at all, and it is a 50 cent part.

"vic" wrote in message
om...
I've tried and gone through Dremels, Ryobi,Craftsman,B & D Wizards. My
B & D RTX (I think) is starting to go, but it's still my favorite to
date. The problem with all these tools is that the air intake
(cooling) is in the front of the tool near the bits and all the crap
that you cut and grind gets sucked into the motor.

the foredom has the motor about 2' away from the cutting head

"Javahut" wrote in message
...


I missed the other responses Java, but when I need to do those lamp bend
brass borders, I use the soft brass came. Works 100% better.

--
JK Sinrod NY
Sinrod Stained Glass
www.sinrodstudios.com
Coney Island Memories
www.sinrodstudios.com/coneymemories

Greetings:

Anyone know a source of brass 1/2" X 1/2"angle or even copper? I've searched
the web and while angle can be bent there is nothing like the crisp edge of
mill rolled angle.

Regards,
Charles
"jk" wrote in message
t...

"Javahut" wrote in message
...


I missed the other responses Java, but when I need to do those lamp
bend
brass borders, I use the soft brass came. Works 100% better.

--
JK Sinrod NY
Sinrod Stained Glass
www.sinrodstudios.com
Coney Island Memories
www.sinrodstudios.com/coneymemories

While I am not experienced in stained glass, I am experience in cutting
metal. Brass, in _any_ form, will be no match for a good hacksaw blade. My
personal favorite is the Lennox Hackmaster II. And there are 'close quarter
hacksaw handles' which allow one handed operation of a hacksaw blade.

Abrasive cutting of soft metals such as brass and aluminum is not
recommended. These metals tend to clog abrasive wheels, which then no
longer cut, they just produce friction. That may be why the brass is
getting hot enough to discolor. And the risk of scratches on the glass that
someone spoke of were probably not from the brass chips, but the abrasives
from the cutting wheel.

I doubt the diamond wheel was destroyed by the brass...more than likely just
clogged up with it.

Get yourself a handle such as:
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=46138
The 32 TPI blade that Mike described will give a clean smooth cut. Note the
direction of the blade (it makes a difference) as a hacksaw cuts on the push
side of the stroke, not the pull (tho, for your purposes, it may be easier
to put the blade in backwards and cut on the pull stroke...experiment a
bit). You will have no problems cutting brass with this.

--
Bill Browne
Computer for work http://excalibur-dbf.com
Metal & glass for fun http://w.browne.home.att.net

"Moonraker" wrote in message
.. .

"Mike Firth" wrote in message
...
Brass may take the teeth off some saws, but a 32 tooth hacksaw blade
thinks it is second cousin to butter and I have cut soft sheet with hole
saws and pocket knives without a lot of damage to the tools.

The brass came, as it comes out of the box, IS work hardened by virtue of
it's extrusion into it's HR shape. I've never been very successful in
cutting brass by hand (or with a chop saw) with anything that has a
toothed
blade. Only thing that I've ever had success with is the thin fiber
abrasive blades/wheels. I have even used the small thin diamond wheels
from
Harbor Freight in a Dremel, and the brass will just destroy the diamond
wheels in a matter of a few cuts. Soft, sheet brass like you buy in a
hobby shop is not nearly as tough to cut as is formed came. You can cut
that stuff with scissors.

Bill Browne wrote:

While I am not experienced in stained glass, I am experience in cutting
metal. Brass, in _any_ form, will be no match for a good hacksaw blade. My
personal favorite is the Lennox Hackmaster II. And there are 'close quarter
hacksaw handles' which allow one handed operation of a hacksaw blade.

Abrasive cutting of soft metals such as brass and aluminum is not
recommended. These metals tend to clog abrasive wheels, which then no
longer cut, they just produce friction. That may be why the brass is
getting hot enough to discolor. And the risk of scratches on the glass that
someone spoke of were probably not from the brass chips, but the abrasives
from the cutting wheel.

I doubt the diamond wheel was destroyed by the brass...more than likely just
clogged up with it.


Good info. The diamond wheel can be dressed with a silicon carbide bar.
--
Jack


http://photos.yahoo.com/bc/xmissionbobo/

"Bill Browne" wrote in message
news
While I am not experienced in stained glass, I am experience in cutting
metal.

I'm experienced in stained glass. And cutting the metals that go with that
art/craft. Maybe you ought to be listening to those who actually have some
hands-on experience?

Brass, in _any_ form, will be no match for a good hacksaw blade. My
personal favorite is the Lennox Hackmaster II. And there are 'close
quarter
hacksaw handles' which allow one handed operation of a hacksaw blade.

Abrasive cutting of soft metals such as brass and aluminum is not
recommended.

Let's see you build 16 windows out of brass with about 900 individual miter
cuts in each window and do it with a hacksaw.



These metals tend to clog abrasive wheels, which then no
longer cut, they just produce friction. That may be why the brass is
getting hot enough to discolor. And the risk of scratches on the glass
that
someone spoke of were probably not from the brass chips, but the abrasives
from the cutting wheel.

Maybe...



I doubt the diamond wheel was destroyed by the brass...more than likely
just
clogged up with it.

How 'bout I just post a picture of the wheel and you can see for your self?
If I say it was destroyed, who are you to tell me you doubt it? Are you
metallurgically clairvoyant?

Aw, jeez. I shoulda known. Lemme guess..."I've been doing this for ???
years and I know all there is to know about..."

I thought we could all share ideas in a reasonable, adult discussion on this
(that's what the internet is for, right?). But if you insist...

"Moonraker" wrote in message
.. .

"Bill Browne" wrote in message
news
While I am not experienced in stained glass, I am experience in cutting
metal.

I'm experienced in stained glass. And cutting the metals that go with
that
art/craft. Maybe you ought to be listening to those who actually have
some
hands-on experience?

I have plenty of hands on experience...cutting metal. Red brass, yellow
brass, bronze, oil impregnated bronze, steel, cast iron, aluminum,
stainless. Then wood, teflon, nylon, and plexiglass, just for funsies
(plexiglass shavings make the best artificial snow...). You think your
damned old brass came is something special? Has magical hardness properties
that no other brass has? Nope. Send me 6" of the stuff and I'll show you 6
ways to cut it.

Brass, in _any_ form, will be no match for a good hacksaw blade. My
personal favorite is the Lennox Hackmaster II. And there are 'close
quarter
hacksaw handles' which allow one handed operation of a hacksaw blade.

Abrasive cutting of soft metals such as brass and aluminum is not
recommended.

Let's see you build 16 windows out of brass with about 900 individual
miter
cuts in each window and do it with a hacksaw.

If the few swipes it would take to cut the stuff with a hacksaw is too much
for you, I'm sure there is something that will fit in a Dremel and give
decent results. The trick is finding the right rotating speed for the
cutter being used. You can burn up almost any cutter in any material if you
turn it too fast.

These metals tend to clog abrasive wheels, which then no
longer cut, they just produce friction. That may be why the brass is
getting hot enough to discolor. And the risk of scratches on the glass
that
someone spoke of were probably not from the brass chips, but the
abrasives
from the cutting wheel.

Maybe...

There is no 'Maybe' to it. Walk into any machine shop and ask to use their
grinders on brass. If they don't refuse you outright, they will insist that
you re-face the wheel when you are done, to remove the material that clogged
up the wheel.

And as far as the scratches on the glass, grinding wheels and disks are
expendable devices...they work by disintegrating...it's the nature of the
beast. When they do their job, they leave grit everywhere. Very hard grit.
Much harder than brass and much more likely to scratch glass.


I doubt the diamond wheel was destroyed by the brass...more than likely
just
clogged up with it.

How 'bout I just post a picture of the wheel and you can see for your
self?
If I say it was destroyed, who are you to tell me you doubt it? Are you
metallurgically clairvoyant?


No, but it doesn't take Carnac the Magnificent to know that a diamond (one
of the hardest materials known to man) is not going to be 'destroyed' by
brass (one of the softest metals known to man). Post the pics. Would love
to see em. If it is that bad off, all I can figure is you got the thing so
damn hot that whatever adhesive they used gave up and all the diamonds fell
off. Besides, there's this 'free country' thing...I can doubt anything I
want. So there.

So, Mr Expert. You can sit around all day and burn up grinding wheels from
hell till breakfast for all I care. Just trying to share a little useful
information from one craft to another. Maybe somebody who's willing to
listen, discuss, and experiment can find an easy way to cut this stuff, and
take all those nasty old brass came jobs away so you won't have to stress
out about them any more.

And if there is somebody who would be willing to send me a foot or two of
the stuff, I'd be glad to play around with cutting it and see what I can
come up with.

--
Bill Browne
Computer for work http://excalibur-dbf.com
Metal & glass for fun http://w.browne.home.att.net

I agree with most of what you say here. However, hand cutting with a
hack saw would tend to be tedious on a large project. Could you identify
a circular blade with the same properties and a thin kerf that would do
the job? I only wish that there was a small saw with a slower speed.
The abrasive saws all turn too fast in my opinion to use the toothed
blades. I would think only a few hundred RPM on a 6-8" saw would do the
trick. What say you?


G^2


"Bill Browne" wrote in
news
While I am not experienced in stained glass, I am experience in
cutting metal. Brass, in _any_ form, will be no match for a good
hacksaw blade. My personal favorite is the Lennox Hackmaster II. And
there are 'close quarter hacksaw handles' which allow one handed
operation of a hacksaw blade.

Abrasive cutting of soft metals such as brass and aluminum is not
recommended. These metals tend to clog abrasive wheels, which then no
longer cut, they just produce friction. That may be why the brass is
getting hot enough to discolor. And the risk of scratches on the
glass that someone spoke of were probably not from the brass chips,
but the abrasives from the cutting wheel.

I doubt the diamond wheel was destroyed by the brass...more than
likely just clogged up with it.

Get yourself a handle such as:
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=46138
The 32 TPI blade that Mike described will give a clean smooth cut.
Note the direction of the blade (it makes a difference) as a hacksaw
cuts on the push side of the stroke, not the pull (tho, for your
purposes, it may be easier to put the blade in backwards and cut on
the pull stroke...experiment a bit). You will have no problems
cutting brass with this.

--
Bill Browne
Computer for work http://excalibur-dbf.com
Metal & glass for fun http://w.browne.home.att.net

"Moonraker" wrote in message
.. .

"Mike Firth" wrote in message
...
Brass may take the teeth off some saws, but a 32 tooth hacksaw
blade
thinks it is second cousin to butter and I have cut soft sheet with
hole saws and pocket knives without a lot of damage to the tools.

The brass came, as it comes out of the box, IS work hardened by
virtue of it's extrusion into it's HR shape. I've never been very
successful in cutting brass by hand (or with a chop saw) with
anything that has a
toothed
blade. Only thing that I've ever had success with is the thin fiber
abrasive blades/wheels. I have even used the small thin diamond
wheels
from
Harbor Freight in a Dremel, and the brass will just destroy the
diamond wheels in a matter of a few cuts. Soft, sheet brass like
you buy in a hobby shop is not nearly as tough to cut as is formed
came. You can cut that stuff with scissors.







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