Silvered copper foil

I am creating a narrow 6' side light window made with all bevels.
Someone told me to use this silvered copper foil as it is sturdier. I
am using Strong Line for reinforcement. My concern is the aesthetics
of the silver on the adhesive side of the foil. The patina will be
black, and I am wondering how the silver will look on the backside
through the bevel. Any opinions?

"Craig" wrote in message
om...
I am creating a narrow 6' side light window made with all bevels.
Someone told me to use this silvered copper foil as it is sturdier. I
am using Strong Line for reinforcement. My concern is the aesthetics
of the silver on the adhesive side of the foil. The patina will be
black, and I am wondering how the silver will look on the backside
through the bevel. Any opinions?

You really asking? or looking to have your first instinct reinforced?

color has no impact on strength. use black backed. You can get thicker foil,
though, but it shouldn't make much of a difference on internal strength if
you solder properly.(i would think it maybe helpful on non-framed edges??)
m

"Javahut" wrote in message
...

"Craig" wrote in message
om...
I am creating a narrow 6' side light window made with all bevels.
Someone told me to use this silvered copper foil as it is sturdier. I
am using Strong Line for reinforcement. My concern is the aesthetics
of the silver on the adhesive side of the foil. The patina will be
black, and I am wondering how the silver will look on the backside
through the bevel. Any opinions?

You really asking? or looking to have your first instinct reinforced?

Whoever told you silver back foil is stronger is misinformed.

The strength of foil is determined by its thickness - not it's colour.
Foil is currently available with copper, black, or silver backing.
Of all three, the one that is LEAST likely to help is silver. It
doesn't stick worth a damn. We sell it (for no reason than some
customers insist on it) but refuse to use it on our work. It's not
especially relevant because foil serves only to provide a surface for
the solder to stick to. It's the solder that provides the strength -
not the foil.

I believe that the color of the backing is relevant to some degree.
Who would want to see the black backing on work with a lot of
cathedral glass and when the solder is left silver. The same holds
true with copper foil and leaving the solder silver. The quality of
the silver backing from Venture has improved greatly and in the past
few years I have had no problems with it sticking. Clean glass, clean
hands, no problem.

Andy

(Dennis Brady) wrote in message . com...
Whoever told you silver back foil is stronger is misinformed.

The strength of foil is determined by its thickness - not it's colour.
Foil is currently available with copper, black, or silver backing.
Of all three, the one that is LEAST likely to help is silver. It
doesn't stick worth a damn. We sell it (for no reason than some
customers insist on it) but refuse to use it on our work. It's not
especially relevant because foil serves only to provide a surface for
the solder to stick to. It's the solder that provides the strength -
not the foil.

Thanx all for your comments! I did end up using the black backed and
it came out wonderful. The silver stuff was just thicker, and since
my soldering is pretty decent, the strength is just fine. And Javahut
was right, I guess I was looking for reinforcement(pardon the pun)
with my instincts. I'm learning more and more to trust them!!

"Michele color has no impact on strength. use black backed. You can
get thicker foil,
though, but it shouldn't make much of a difference on internal strength if
you solder properly.(i would think it maybe helpful on non-framed edges??)

I am creating a narrow 6' side light window made with all bevels.
Someone told me to use this silvered copper foil as it is sturdier. I
am using Strong Line for reinforcement. My concern is the aesthetics
of the silver on the adhesive side of the foil. The patina will be
black, and I am wondering how the silver will look on the backside
through the bevel. Any opinions?

"Javahut" You really asking? or looking to have your first
instinct reinforced?

"Craig" wrote in message
om...
Thanx all for your comments! I did end up using the black backed and
it came out wonderful. The silver stuff was just thicker, and since
my soldering is pretty decent, the strength is just fine. And Javahut
was right, I guess I was looking for reinforcement(pardon the pun)
with my instincts. I'm learning more and more to trust them!!

Here's one for ya, Craig,
Learn to work with lead came. The technique is different, and so is the
appearance. Not going to argue, right,wrong, bad, good, or any thing else
about it, just different, and classic!

.....and once you've got your cutting skills up to grade, lead is a lot
less work than foil.

You know - people say that all the time (lead less than foil in terms of
time/effort) - I haven't found that to be the case. Sure you can cut a bit
less accurately with lead and the soldering time is a whole lot less - but
once you start puttying and cleaning aspects - there's a wash in terms of
time in my experience.

ML

Then I'd suggest you review what you're doing to putty and clean. We
do a large volume of both leaded and foiled work and have consistently
found leaded work CONSIDERABLY quicker.

On average, about 25% less total time required. If you do it as a
hobby, that's no big deal. We do it as a business. A difference that
large is a VERY big deal.