Preventing warping?

Me again

I _think_ that the thicker the "slab", the easier it will warp. I have to
have a very flat, thin slab that doesn't warp at all (yes, for my clock).

I would like everyone's tips on how they prevent flat "tiles/slabs" from
warping, please?

Marianne

Bubbles_ wrote:
Me again

I _think_ that the thicker the "slab", the easier it will warp. I have to
have a very flat, thin slab that doesn't warp at all (yes, for my clock).

I would like everyone's tips on how they prevent flat "tiles/slabs" from
warping, please?

Marianne

Hi,
I guess this would depend on how big a piece is, but I just turn the
flat piece out on a ware board ( it's absorbant, partical board) then
lay another ware board on top of it. Sometimes, I leave the piece on
the canvas when I do this. Then I flip it over once in a while. It
takes longer to dry but usually it doesn't warp. I hope this helps.
Sandi

Red Deer wrote:
Bubbles_ wrote:
Me again

I _think_ that the thicker the "slab", the easier it will warp. I have to
have a very flat, thin slab that doesn't warp at all (yes, for my clock).

I would like everyone's tips on how they prevent flat "tiles/slabs" from
warping, please?

Marianne

Hi,
I guess this would depend on how big a piece is, but I just turn the
flat piece out on a ware board ( it's absorbant, partical board) then
lay another ware board on top of it. Sometimes, I leave the piece on
the canvas when I do this. Then I flip it over once in a while. It
takes longer to dry but usually it doesn't warp. I hope this helps.
Sandi

Yep, thats the way i do it as well just so both sides dry evenly..
Hugs
Eddie

----- Original Message -----
From: "Bubbles_"
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.pottery
Sent: Monday, June 05, 2006 2:11 PM
Subject: Preventing warping?


Me again

I _think_ that the thicker the "slab", the easier it will warp. I have to
have a very flat, thin slab that doesn't warp at all (yes, for my clock).

I would like everyone's tips on how they prevent flat "tiles/slabs" from
warping, please?

Marianne

[Try drying them on a scrap piece of gypsum wallboard (like Sheetrock). If
there's no raised detail, you can stack them with wallboard pieces
interleaved, but if there is, just lay them out flat and turn them over
after a day or so. I've had good luck with the green kind, used for
bathrooms. I think the paper's less likely to deteriorate with a little
moisture, otherwise there's not much difference.]

Andrew Werby
www.unitedartworks.com

"Andrew Werby" wrote in message
...


[Try drying them on a scrap piece of gypsum wallboard (like Sheetrock). If
there's no raised detail, you can stack them with wallboard pieces
interleaved, but if there is, just lay them out flat and turn them over
after a day or so. I've had good luck with the green kind, used for
bathrooms. I think the paper's less likely to deteriorate with a little
moisture, otherwise there's not much difference.]

Great tip for those in countries that us gyprock (like Canada, where I once
lived), but over here, they just gypsum direct on the walls, for pete's
sake! GRRR!!! Makes hanging pictures a university course subject! AGH!!!
/end rant

I don't think I have seen anything even resembling gyprock here in
Switzerland - or else that would be a really fab tip. Thanks!

Marianne - always keeping an eye out for smart stuff to use!

"Eddie Daughton" wrote in message
...
Red Deer wrote:

I guess this would depend on how big a piece is, but I just turn the
flat piece out on a ware board ( it's absorbant, partical board) then
lay another ware board on top of it. Sometimes, I leave the piece on
the canvas when I do this. Then I flip it over once in a while. It
takes longer to dry but usually it doesn't warp. I hope this helps.
Sandi

Yep, thats the way i do it as well just so both sides dry evenly..
Hugs
Eddi

Hi Sandi and huggable Eddie!

I do do that most of the time, and it really does help, but sometimes the
piece is only flat on one side. What do you do then?

Also - pieces that haven't warped during drying sometimes still warp under
firing - even under glaze firing (which is the sure bummer! hehe!)

In bisque, you can allways put something flat on top of the piece, but
during glaze firing, that is seldom an option. Thereof also my question if
firing higher without glaze, and then firing a little lower with glaze on
the piece, might help avoid warping during high firing (1250 C)

Marianne

Bubbles_ wrote:
"Eddie Daughton" wrote in message
...
Red Deer wrote:

I guess this would depend on how big a piece is, but I just turn the
flat piece out on a ware board ( it's absorbant, partical board) then
lay another ware board on top of it. Sometimes, I leave the piece on
the canvas when I do this. Then I flip it over once in a while. It
takes longer to dry but usually it doesn't warp. I hope this helps.
Sandi

Yep, thats the way i do it as well just so both sides dry evenly..
Hugs
Eddi

Hi Sandi and huggable Eddie!

I do do that most of the time, and it really does help, but sometimes the
piece is only flat on one side. What do you do then?

Also - pieces that haven't warped during drying sometimes still warp under
firing - even under glaze firing (which is the sure bummer! hehe!)

In bisque, you can allways put something flat on top of the piece, but
during glaze firing, that is seldom an option. Thereof also my question if
firing higher without glaze, and then firing a little lower with glaze on
the piece, might help avoid warping during high firing (1250 C)

Marianne

Slow drying, covered with something flat so that the corners do not
turn up. Then for bisque and glaze fire on a bed of grog. Seems to
help, the grog allows for movement as it shrinks and I think helps.
Its about all I can offer though, good luck.

"annemarie" wrote in message
ups.com...

Slow drying, covered with something flat so that the corners do not
turn up. Then for bisque and glaze fire on a bed of grog. Seems to
help, the grog allows for movement as it shrinks and I think helps.
Its about all I can offer though, good luck.

Thanks AnneMarie. I don't have grog, but I do have sand. I suppose it must
be that it facilitates shrinkage better. Will make a note of it in my firing
book!

Marianne (ie. your alter ego ;-)

Putting some sales print paper (the stuff you get in the mail that is like
newspaper print but a tad shiny) on the plaster board to make it last
longer. I also tape the sides of my cut wallboard with duck tape (the tape
that is great for everything but ducts...).
DK
"Andrew Werby" wrote in message
...

----- Original Message -----
From: "Bubbles_"
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.pottery
Sent: Monday, June 05, 2006 2:11 PM
Subject: Preventing warping?


Me again

I _think_ that the thicker the "slab", the easier it will warp. I have to
have a very flat, thin slab that doesn't warp at all (yes, for my clock).

I would like everyone's tips on how they prevent flat "tiles/slabs" from
warping, please?

Marianne

[Try drying them on a scrap piece of gypsum wallboard (like Sheetrock). If
there's no raised detail, you can stack them with wallboard pieces
interleaved, but if there is, just lay them out flat and turn them over
after a day or so. I've had good luck with the green kind, used for
bathrooms. I think the paper's less likely to deteriorate with a little
moisture, otherwise there's not much difference.]

Andrew Werby
www.unitedartworks.com

Are you sure about that? I swear I just saw a truck load of the stuff
recently on the drive through that area. Maybe it was farther south... I
even saw a place that looked way too much like Home Depot (but named
something else).

Anyway...

You want something stiff (won't bend since clay has a memory) but that is
light enough that you can sandwich the tiles between the 'boards' to flip
them over so each side gets dry in equal measure.

This thread was just posted on Clayart and what I read that most stood out
for me was waxing the edges (sides not top or bottom) of the tiles since
that is where things dry out too quickly relative to the rest of the tile.
Good luck!


"Bubbles_" wrote in message
...

"Andrew Werby" wrote in message
...


[Try drying them on a scrap piece of gypsum wallboard (like Sheetrock).
If
there's no raised detail, you can stack them with wallboard pieces
interleaved, but if there is, just lay them out flat and turn them over
after a day or so. I've had good luck with the green kind, used for
bathrooms. I think the paper's less likely to deteriorate with a little
moisture, otherwise there's not much difference.]

Great tip for those in countries that us gyprock (like Canada, where I
once lived), but over here, they just gypsum direct on the walls, for
pete's sake! GRRR!!! Makes hanging pictures a university course subject!
AGH!!! /end rant

I don't think I have seen anything even resembling gyprock here in
Switzerland - or else that would be a really fab tip. Thanks!

Marianne - always keeping an eye out for smart stuff to use!