Chip bowl trouble

re Steve's thought, i usually throw up about that size and use a mix with
APC (a UK smooth(ish) stoneware clay, and about 1/3 crank (sometimes even
Raku, depends what i've got in the workshop), plenty of compression in the
rim, and dry upside down as soon as you can (tho' not too quick, give it
time to get itself together...)
If they bottoms is too wide for drying (soggy so they sags) then keep
changing the absorbant batt that they's on...
Hope this helps
Hugz
Eddie
Take the spam out if you want to reply....

"Lindsay MacArthur" wrote in message
...
I am trying to make a 14"-16" diameter shallow stoneware serving bowl
but I have not had any success. Each of my bowls had cracked while
drying. What am I doing wrong? Since the bowls don't curve up much
could the weight of the sides be pulling downward while it's drying?
Thanks for the help
LMac

Are you using good clay- and kneading it well enough?
Also letting it dry slowly...


"Lindsay MacArthur" wrote in message
...
I am trying to make a 14"-16" diameter shallow stoneware serving bowl
but I have not had any success. Each of my bowls had cracked while
drying. What am I doing wrong? Since the bowls don't curve up much
could the weight of the sides be pulling downward while it's drying?
Thanks for the help
LMac

one observation with my larger 18 to 24 inch bowls:

once thrown i leave them cut on the bat. i let them dry a bit (southern
california - summers are 14% humidity).

if i take them off too soon, they get a warp into the shape. if i take them
off at the right leather stage they come out great.

if i don't take them off the throwing bat too soon, the rims dry to "leather"
pretty fast yet the foot is still very wet. (sometimes this only takes less
then an hour).

lifting the bowl off the bat can slightly fold the bowl which cracks the rim
(verticle). sometimes these cracks are visible right away, sometimes not until
after bisque &/or glaze.

i strive to VERY uniformly get the bowl OFF the throwing bat and onto another
dry bat BEFORE the rib drys much. i often put some newspaper under the wet
foot on this next bat to help draw moisture out of the foot faster to match the
rib drying speed. and i cover the whole thing with dry cleaner bags.

B-mix is the worst for me. cracks seem to develop from handling around the
workshop more then any other. if i's moving pots around and sliding them onto
the shelf, the SLIGHTEST tap of bump into a neighboring pot can cause a crack.
porcelain isn't even that fussy...

soldate 60 has been my best clay for large bowls. it's a fine grog stoneware.


see ya

steve







Subject: Chip bowl trouble
From: "scotttm"
Date: 3/12/2004 3:14 PM Pacific Standard Time
Message-id: .net

Are you using good clay- and kneading it well enough?
Also letting it dry slowly...


"Lindsay MacArthur" wrote in message
.. .
I am trying to make a 14"-16" diameter shallow stoneware serving bowl
but I have not had any success. Each of my bowls had cracked while
drying. What am I doing wrong? Since the bowls don't curve up much
could the weight of the sides be pulling downward while it's drying?
Thanks for the help
LMac










steve graber