A crafts forum. CraftBanter

If this is your first visit, be sure to check out the FAQ by clicking the link above. You may have to register before you can post: click the register link above to proceed. To start viewing messages, select the forum that you want to visit from the selection below.

Go Back   Home » CraftBanter forum » Textiles newsgroups » Quilting
Site Map Home Register Authors List Search Today's Posts Mark Forums Read Web Partners

Placement of sewing machine



 
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
  #21  
Old January 6th 06, 03:52 PM posted to rec.crafts.textiles.quilting,alt.sewing
external usenet poster
 
Posts: n/a
Default Placement of sewing machine

Polly Esther wrote:

Something else I was too polite to mention was that some of us have more in
front of us than others (in addition to accurate bi-focal distance). No. I
was too polite to mention that. Polly


I have my machine as close to the edge of the table as possible --
6.5" is the measurement. Of course, I have to squish my
pulchritudinous self right up close to the edge of the table so that I
can actually see the needle -- LOLOL! CiaoMeow ^;;^
Ads
  #22  
Old January 6th 06, 03:57 PM posted to rec.crafts.textiles.quilting,alt.sewing
external usenet poster
 
Posts: n/a
Default Body Obstacles

er....32F? Is that some kind of a British bra measurement? Or a 32 year
old female?

L



"Kate Dicey" wrote in message
...
lisa skeen wrote:

ROFL.


Being a 32F is noticeable in these circumstances! I quite often bump my
chest when digging lint out of the machines... Especially the treadle,
which is fixed to its table! And I had to stop sewing towards the end of
my pregnancy because the bump got in the way! I felt like I was MILES
from the needle and sewing by remote control! And you lot wondered why I
only have one kid... ;P

--
Kate XXXXXX R.C.T.Q Madame Chef des Trolls
Lady Catherine, Wardrobe Mistress of the Chocolate Buttons
http://www.katedicey.co.uk
Click on Kate's Pages and explore!



  #23  
Old January 6th 06, 07:18 PM posted to rec.crafts.textiles.quilting,alt.sewing
external usenet poster
 
Posts: n/a
Default Placement of sewing machine

Interesting question - I've just been pondering that meself and doing
some measuring.

Disclaimer first: I've got no certification of any sort in ergonomics,
so this is "IMHO" and "YMMV".

Claimer: I'm a career-long computer worker who has spent much time
learningthrough medical and physio treatments for repetitive straing
injuries - I'm educated and can read and the ergonomics of
sewing/quilting joined my topics of interest beside computer ergonomics
when I got serious.

The "rules" for a good sewing station are similar to those for a
computing station. Ideally, start with your chair height. Sit on
chair, adjust so your feet are flat on the floor, and your knees are at
a 90 degree angle.

Your desk/sewing table *height* is next, and should be based on this:
sitting in your properly adjusted chair, sit up straight, relax your
shoulders, and bend your arms 90 degrees at the elbows. Elbows in this
position rest directly at your sides, approximately at waist height.
The correct table height is actually slightly LOWER than your flat
palms in this position. At least for keyboarding, because a typical
keyboard will have its key surfaces about an inch above the table's
surface, and your 90 deg. angle should bring your palms to "floating"
slightly above the tops of the keys, so that if you relax your hands so
your fingers droop to a neutral position, they droop to touch they key
surfaces. In keyboarding, your work surface is actually the surface of
the keys. It is considered acceptable for your work surface to be
slightly lower than this, eg, your elbows will be at an angle of
slightly more than 90 degrees if this is your comfort/preference. If
using an angled keyboard or keyboard tray, the angle should be tilting
down, away from you - that is, the number keys, top row of keyboard,
are lower than the space bar. Most keyboards and desks to that wrong,
even ergonomic ones - they are angled to hyperextend the wrists rather
than accomodate relaxed flexion.

Position: Sit in the center of the alpha keys on the keyboard, so each
hand has to move an equal distance toward the body's centreline to be
in a touch-typing position.

OK - so the above is based on "what I know" - eg, stuff that is
documented ergonomic advice and or that docs/physios have told me.
After this point, I am extrapolating to my own knowledge of sewing
systems and what best works for me in sewing.

Chair mechanics: same. Invest in a good chair. Arms might be less
advised for a sewist than a computer geek (more arm movement,
particularly if free-motion quilting).

Table: incorporating the above with respect to basic table position,
realize that your work surface level is now the top of your fabric.
This means the machine plate is essentially your work surface (given
fabric thicknesses in millimetres). If you have a sewing station
where the machine bed sits flush with the table surface, this is your
table height, if your machine sits up on top of the table, you actually
need a pretty LOW table, applying ergonomic "rules". To me this means
my ideal sewing table is an inch or two higher than my keyboard
tray/table but has the cutout of course. (It is still below the height
of most non-adjustable office desks).

Position: everyone who has ever mentioned this to me of course says to
sit centred in front of the needle.

Distance from edge: I suspect from the other comments this is the most
variable and subject to personal preference. I'll ask a
physiotherapist if I ever have another chance but I suspect also that I
won't get a clear opinion. I'm currently amusing co-workers with some
strange fiddling at my desk, but here's how I've just figured out where
I seem to like my needle:

Sit in your adjusted chair, at your proper-height tabled, and scoot up
as close to the table as is just barely a "natural" seated postion.
EG, tummy right up to the edge but don't "squish" any ample parts into
the table or have to work to hold yourself that close. Rest your
forearms and hands, palms down, on the table surface and double-check
that 90 degrees or slightly more at the elbows, with shoulders relaxed
and hence elbows staying right at your sides and off the table. In
this position if I drew a line between my index fingers, my needle
would come down on that line, or slightly on the near side of of it
(closer to the edge).

I figure this is approximately right for me, because I will not usally
work with belly RIGHT up to the edge of the table, but that is offset
by the fact that I DO usually work with my hands' neutral position
being slightly in front of the needle as they control fabric feeding in
So to actually touch the needle from my natural "working" position
requires a slight reach forward with the hands/arms, but NOT so much of
a reach that my body must lean. Hope that description makes sense.
For me, my absolute maximum measurement would be needle 9.5 inches from
the edge, and I think I would actually place it between 7 and 8 inches
from the edge.

Because you can always "back up" from the table, but cannot get closer
due to the physical barrier of the table edge, I would err on the near
side. The only problem I could forsee with putting my needle closer
to the edge, say, 4-5 inches, is that when sitting up straight in my
proper chair, the angle would be such that I couldn't SEE the needle.
This would lead to me curving my back and neck down and possibly
tilting my head to the side to get a view of my needle. If you are
very short, that's not a problem. If you are very tall it could be a
BIG problem. Since you've got the luxury of custom design, try out
the measurement/placement and "fiddle" with it, then measure exactly
what works for you!

Wow, that got long. Sorry! Can you tell I've spent some time on this
very topic?

Hope it is of some use to you, or someone else.

  #24  
Old January 6th 06, 08:11 PM posted to rec.crafts.textiles.quilting,alt.sewing
external usenet poster
 
Posts: n/a
Default Body Obstacles

Something I have never been able to do is get a professional fitting and OH
I wish I could. I have the issue of 40 DDD or possibly an F but who knows
(yes au natural)? I wear what I can get into and that's that. Besides, they
are bloody EXPENSIVE to purchase! Where I live, we have no lingerie shops or
specialty shops for those women who don't know how to measure their
bazooms.......... and now? my poor poor daughter is turning 14 and wearing
at least a 36 C right now... and even those look too small on her....

As you are a garment maker, how do you measure for the correct fit?
And why do you prefer the underwire?

I would love to be able to measure her and at least get close to what size
she should be wearing........ lord knows mother nature will have her way
with all of them eventually but if I can make it comfortable for her now,
maybe she will keep up the measure and fit part.


Oh lord how does one get from machine placement to bazooms??? Women and the
track the conversations take!

~KK in BC~ whose bazooms have lost their zoom but maybe there is hope for
the daughter LOL

"Kate Dicey" wrote in message
...
lisa skeen wrote:

er....32F? Is that some kind of a British bra measurement? Or a 32 year
old female?

L

Bra sizes are the same here as in the USA. 32 band size, F cup size.
There's more front than back here! And I'm 49, not 32 years old!

Bra cup sizes got up to J if you look in the right places. My problem is
that the bra-makers expect someone with my measurements to be a 19 YO with
plastic enhancements, rather than a 49 YO au naturelle! As a professional
dressmaker, I pay a LOT of attention to bras and whether or not they fit
properly. Did you know that more than 75% of women wear the WRONG size?
And the most common error they make is buying too big a band size with too
small a cup size.

Bras are like shoes: the 'right' size in one make may fit you better than
the right size in another. A good fitter will be able to fit you into not
just the right size, but also the right style and make for your shape. I
find the best fit for me at present are Fantasy and Marks & Spencers (and
a lot of their bras are made for them by Charnos) in a 32F. The best
style is a half cup with underwires and no padding.

--
Kate XXXXXX R.C.T.Q Madame Chef des Trolls
Lady Catherine, Wardrobe Mistress of the Chocolate Buttons
http://www.katedicey.co.uk
Click on Kate's Pages and explore!



  #25  
Old January 6th 06, 08:58 PM posted to rec.crafts.textiles.quilting,alt.sewing
external usenet poster
 
Posts: n/a
Default Body Obstacles

Ok, I have to ask this. If your 'bazooms' are so large and uncomfortable,
why do you keep them? I have a friend who is 5'2" and MAYBE 100lbs if she's
soaking wet and holding a can o' soup.... anyway, she was in the D+ range
and had reduction; she says it's made a huge difference. Mine are C, and
I'd have them reduced if Ic ould afford such....

L
"~KK in BC~" wrote in message
news:Yhzvf.51770$AP5.41098@edtnps84...
Something I have never been able to do is get a professional fitting and
OH I wish I could. I have the issue of 40 DDD or possibly an F but who
knows (yes au natural)? I wear what I can get into and that's that.
Besides, they are bloody EXPENSIVE to purchase! Where I live, we have no
lingerie shops or specialty shops for those women who don't know how to
measure their bazooms.......... and now? my poor poor daughter is turning
14 and wearing at least a 36 C right now... and even those look too small
on her....

As you are a garment maker, how do you measure for the correct fit?
And why do you prefer the underwire?

I would love to be able to measure her and at least get close to what size
she should be wearing........ lord knows mother nature will have her way
with all of them eventually but if I can make it comfortable for her now,
maybe she will keep up the measure and fit part.


Oh lord how does one get from machine placement to bazooms??? Women and
the track the conversations take!

~KK in BC~ whose bazooms have lost their zoom but maybe there is hope for
the daughter LOL

"Kate Dicey" wrote in message
...
lisa skeen wrote:

er....32F? Is that some kind of a British bra measurement? Or a 32
year old female?

L

Bra sizes are the same here as in the USA. 32 band size, F cup size.
There's more front than back here! And I'm 49, not 32 years old!

Bra cup sizes got up to J if you look in the right places. My problem is
that the bra-makers expect someone with my measurements to be a 19 YO
with plastic enhancements, rather than a 49 YO au naturelle! As a
professional dressmaker, I pay a LOT of attention to bras and whether or
not they fit properly. Did you know that more than 75% of women wear the
WRONG size? And the most common error they make is buying too big a band
size with too small a cup size.

Bras are like shoes: the 'right' size in one make may fit you better than
the right size in another. A good fitter will be able to fit you into
not just the right size, but also the right style and make for your
shape. I find the best fit for me at present are Fantasy and Marks &
Spencers (and a lot of their bras are made for them by Charnos) in a 32F.
The best style is a half cup with underwires and no padding.

--
Kate XXXXXX R.C.T.Q Madame Chef des Trolls
Lady Catherine, Wardrobe Mistress of the Chocolate Buttons
http://www.katedicey.co.uk
Click on Kate's Pages and explore!





  #26  
Old January 6th 06, 09:06 PM posted to rec.crafts.textiles.quilting,alt.sewing
external usenet poster
 
Posts: n/a
Default Placement of sewing machine

That was very interesting and helpful, and I'm looking forward to
checking out the height of my chair, position of my machine, etc. when
I get home. I was right with you until the last part, when you
mentioned how it would be bad to have to bend over to see needle...I
had a flashback of me trying out the blind hem stitch for applique this
week for the first time. I was in a lovely ergonomically proper
position in my chair, arms 90 degrees...then as I started to stitch, I
hunched my back, leaned waaaaaaay over and down, simultaneously
stretching my neck and upper torso to the left of my needle, nose right
there next to the needle, trying to see where the needle is actually
landing (if only that guide which is supposed to be doing me so much
good would get out of my way so I could see the needle)... praying I
don't sew through my nose... looking like a hunchback. You mean that
isn't good for me?!

Lynn, who apparently needs to reevaluate methods tonight.

FurrsomeThreesome wrote:
Interesting question - I've just been pondering that meself and doing
some measuring.

Disclaimer first: I've got no certification of any sort in ergonomics,
so this is "IMHO" and "YMMV".

Claimer: I'm a career-long computer worker who has spent much time
learningthrough medical and physio treatments for repetitive straing
injuries - I'm educated and can read and the ergonomics of
sewing/quilting joined my topics of interest beside computer ergonomics
when I got serious.

The "rules" for a good sewing station are similar to those for a
computing station. Ideally, start with your chair height. Sit on
chair, adjust so your feet are flat on the floor, and your knees are at
a 90 degree angle.

Your desk/sewing table *height* is next, and should be based on this:
sitting in your properly adjusted chair, sit up straight, relax your
shoulders, and bend your arms 90 degrees at the elbows. Elbows in this
position rest directly at your sides, approximately at waist height.
The correct table height is actually slightly LOWER than your flat
palms in this position. At least for keyboarding, because a typical
keyboard will have its key surfaces about an inch above the table's
surface, and your 90 deg. angle should bring your palms to "floating"
slightly above the tops of the keys, so that if you relax your hands so
your fingers droop to a neutral position, they droop to touch they key
surfaces. In keyboarding, your work surface is actually the surface of
the keys. It is considered acceptable for your work surface to be
slightly lower than this, eg, your elbows will be at an angle of
slightly more than 90 degrees if this is your comfort/preference. If
using an angled keyboard or keyboard tray, the angle should be tilting
down, away from you - that is, the number keys, top row of keyboard,
are lower than the space bar. Most keyboards and desks to that wrong,
even ergonomic ones - they are angled to hyperextend the wrists rather
than accomodate relaxed flexion.

Position: Sit in the center of the alpha keys on the keyboard, so each
hand has to move an equal distance toward the body's centreline to be
in a touch-typing position.

OK - so the above is based on "what I know" - eg, stuff that is
documented ergonomic advice and or that docs/physios have told me.
After this point, I am extrapolating to my own knowledge of sewing
systems and what best works for me in sewing.

Chair mechanics: same. Invest in a good chair. Arms might be less
advised for a sewist than a computer geek (more arm movement,
particularly if free-motion quilting).

Table: incorporating the above with respect to basic table position,
realize that your work surface level is now the top of your fabric.
This means the machine plate is essentially your work surface (given
fabric thicknesses in millimetres). If you have a sewing station
where the machine bed sits flush with the table surface, this is your
table height, if your machine sits up on top of the table, you actually
need a pretty LOW table, applying ergonomic "rules". To me this means
my ideal sewing table is an inch or two higher than my keyboard
tray/table but has the cutout of course. (It is still below the height
of most non-adjustable office desks).

Position: everyone who has ever mentioned this to me of course says to
sit centred in front of the needle.

Distance from edge: I suspect from the other comments this is the most
variable and subject to personal preference. I'll ask a
physiotherapist if I ever have another chance but I suspect also that I
won't get a clear opinion. I'm currently amusing co-workers with some
strange fiddling at my desk, but here's how I've just figured out where
I seem to like my needle:

Sit in your adjusted chair, at your proper-height tabled, and scoot up
as close to the table as is just barely a "natural" seated postion.
EG, tummy right up to the edge but don't "squish" any ample parts into
the table or have to work to hold yourself that close. Rest your
forearms and hands, palms down, on the table surface and double-check
that 90 degrees or slightly more at the elbows, with shoulders relaxed
and hence elbows staying right at your sides and off the table. In
this position if I drew a line between my index fingers, my needle
would come down on that line, or slightly on the near side of of it
(closer to the edge).

I figure this is approximately right for me, because I will not usally
work with belly RIGHT up to the edge of the table, but that is offset
by the fact that I DO usually work with my hands' neutral position
being slightly in front of the needle as they control fabric feeding in
So to actually touch the needle from my natural "working" position
requires a slight reach forward with the hands/arms, but NOT so much of
a reach that my body must lean. Hope that description makes sense.
For me, my absolute maximum measurement would be needle 9.5 inches from
the edge, and I think I would actually place it between 7 and 8 inches
from the edge.

Because you can always "back up" from the table, but cannot get closer
due to the physical barrier of the table edge, I would err on the near
side. The only problem I could forsee with putting my needle closer
to the edge, say, 4-5 inches, is that when sitting up straight in my
proper chair, the angle would be such that I couldn't SEE the needle.
This would lead to me curving my back and neck down and possibly
tilting my head to the side to get a view of my needle. If you are
very short, that's not a problem. If you are very tall it could be a
BIG problem. Since you've got the luxury of custom design, try out
the measurement/placement and "fiddle" with it, then measure exactly
what works for you!

Wow, that got long. Sorry! Can you tell I've spent some time on this
very topic?

Hope it is of some use to you, or someone else.


  #27  
Old January 6th 06, 09:09 PM posted to rec.crafts.textiles.quilting,alt.sewing
external usenet poster
 
Posts: n/a
Default Body Obstacles

You hit the nail on the head there, afford.

It is only half covered by medical. Half of it would be medical reasoning,
they consider the other half to be elective and therefore not covered. I do
not have the extra $8,000 or so to get the job done because the infamous
"they" consider it to be a cosmetic thing.

~KK in BC~ who has done the appointments and research and found out it is
cheaper to get em stuck on that to cut em off......... friend of mine got
some put on for about $4000.

"lisa skeen" wrote in message
nk.net...
Ok, I have to ask this. If your 'bazooms' are so large and uncomfortable,
why do you keep them? I have a friend who is 5'2" and MAYBE 100lbs if
she's soaking wet and holding a can o' soup.... anyway, she was in the D+
range and had reduction; she says it's made a huge difference. Mine are
C, and I'd have them reduced if Ic ould afford such....

L
"~KK in BC~" wrote in message
news:Yhzvf.51770$AP5.41098@edtnps84...
Something I have never been able to do is get a professional fitting and
OH I wish I could. I have the issue of 40 DDD or possibly an F but who
knows (yes au natural)? I wear what I can get into and that's that.
Besides, they are bloody EXPENSIVE to purchase! Where I live, we have no
lingerie shops or specialty shops for those women who don't know how to
measure their bazooms.......... and now? my poor poor daughter is turning
14 and wearing at least a 36 C right now... and even those look too small
on her....

As you are a garment maker, how do you measure for the correct fit?
And why do you prefer the underwire?

I would love to be able to measure her and at least get close to what
size she should be wearing........ lord knows mother nature will have her
way with all of them eventually but if I can make it comfortable for her
now, maybe she will keep up the measure and fit part.


Oh lord how does one get from machine placement to bazooms??? Women and
the track the conversations take!

~KK in BC~ whose bazooms have lost their zoom but maybe there is hope for
the daughter LOL

"Kate Dicey" wrote in message
...
lisa skeen wrote:

er....32F? Is that some kind of a British bra measurement? Or a 32
year old female?

L
Bra sizes are the same here as in the USA. 32 band size, F cup size.
There's more front than back here! And I'm 49, not 32 years old!

Bra cup sizes got up to J if you look in the right places. My problem
is that the bra-makers expect someone with my measurements to be a 19 YO
with plastic enhancements, rather than a 49 YO au naturelle! As a
professional dressmaker, I pay a LOT of attention to bras and whether or
not they fit properly. Did you know that more than 75% of women wear
the WRONG size? And the most common error they make is buying too big a
band size with too small a cup size.

Bras are like shoes: the 'right' size in one make may fit you better
than the right size in another. A good fitter will be able to fit you
into not just the right size, but also the right style and make for your
shape. I find the best fit for me at present are Fantasy and Marks &
Spencers (and a lot of their bras are made for them by Charnos) in a
32F. The best style is a half cup with underwires and no padding.

--
Kate XXXXXX R.C.T.Q Madame Chef des Trolls
Lady Catherine, Wardrobe Mistress of the Chocolate Buttons
http://www.katedicey.co.uk
Click on Kate's Pages and explore!







  #28  
Old January 6th 06, 10:29 PM posted to rec.crafts.textiles.quilting,alt.sewing
external usenet poster
 
Posts: n/a
Default Body Obstacles

~KK in BC~ wrote:

Something I have never been able to do is get a professional fitting and OH
I wish I could. I have the issue of 40 DDD or possibly an F but who knows
(yes au natural)? I wear what I can get into and that's that. Besides, they
are bloody EXPENSIVE to purchase! Where I live, we have no lingerie shops or
specialty shops for those women who don't know how to measure their
bazooms.......... and now? my poor poor daughter is turning 14 and wearing
at least a 36 C right now... and even those look too small on her....

As you are a garment maker, how do you measure for the correct fit?
And why do you prefer the underwire?


This explains fit fairly well.

http://www.bravissimo.com/bravissimo...rafitting.aspx

or this one: http://www.fashionforms.com/Bra-Fitting-Guide.html

Underwire is a matter of shape, how the breast sits on the chest wall,
and what you find comfortable. boobs are different shapes, like feet,
and some find one thing more comfortable than another. It's also a
matter of the shape of your torso: if you have an oval section rib-cage,
you may find non-wired bras or ones with a wider space between the cups
better. If, like me, your rib-cage is more round in section, you may
find those that are set closer together more comfortable.

I would love to be able to measure her and at least get close to what size
she should be wearing........ lord knows mother nature will have her way
with all of them eventually but if I can make it comfortable for her now,
maybe she will keep up the measure and fit part.


I do hope so. The difference between a well fitting bra and an
ill-fitting one is a matter of health as much as style.


Oh lord how does one get from machine placement to bazooms??? Women and the
track the conversations take!


Thread drift... ;D



--
Kate XXXXXX R.C.T.Q Madame Chef des Trolls
Lady Catherine, Wardrobe Mistress of the Chocolate Buttons
http://www.katedicey.co.uk
Click on Kate's Pages and explore!
  #29  
Old January 6th 06, 11:21 PM posted to rec.crafts.textiles.quilting
external usenet poster
 
Posts: n/a
Default Body Obstacles

ACK! That's quite a cost. Figures it would be more to put 'em in
tho....stupid plastic surgeons.

L
"~KK in BC~" wrote in message
news:M7Avf.53580$AP5.50719@edtnps84...
You hit the nail on the head there, afford.

It is only half covered by medical. Half of it would be medical reasoning,
they consider the other half to be elective and therefore not covered. I
do not have the extra $8,000 or so to get the job done because the
infamous "they" consider it to be a cosmetic thing.

~KK in BC~ who has done the appointments and research and found out it is
cheaper to get em stuck on that to cut em off......... friend of mine got
some put on for about $4000.

"lisa skeen" wrote in message
nk.net...
Ok, I have to ask this. If your 'bazooms' are so large and
uncomfortable, why do you keep them? I have a friend who is 5'2" and
MAYBE 100lbs if she's soaking wet and holding a can o' soup.... anyway,
she was in the D+ range and had reduction; she says it's made a huge
difference. Mine are C, and I'd have them reduced if Ic ould afford
such....

L
"~KK in BC~" wrote in message
news:Yhzvf.51770$AP5.41098@edtnps84...
Something I have never been able to do is get a professional fitting and
OH I wish I could. I have the issue of 40 DDD or possibly an F but who
knows (yes au natural)? I wear what I can get into and that's that.
Besides, they are bloody EXPENSIVE to purchase! Where I live, we have no
lingerie shops or specialty shops for those women who don't know how to
measure their bazooms.......... and now? my poor poor daughter is
turning 14 and wearing at least a 36 C right now... and even those look
too small on her....

As you are a garment maker, how do you measure for the correct fit?
And why do you prefer the underwire?

I would love to be able to measure her and at least get close to what
size she should be wearing........ lord knows mother nature will have
her way with all of them eventually but if I can make it comfortable for
her now, maybe she will keep up the measure and fit part.


Oh lord how does one get from machine placement to bazooms??? Women and
the track the conversations take!

~KK in BC~ whose bazooms have lost their zoom but maybe there is hope
for the daughter LOL

"Kate Dicey" wrote in message
...
lisa skeen wrote:

er....32F? Is that some kind of a British bra measurement? Or a 32
year old female?

L
Bra sizes are the same here as in the USA. 32 band size, F cup size.
There's more front than back here! And I'm 49, not 32 years old!

Bra cup sizes got up to J if you look in the right places. My problem
is that the bra-makers expect someone with my measurements to be a 19
YO with plastic enhancements, rather than a 49 YO au naturelle! As a
professional dressmaker, I pay a LOT of attention to bras and whether
or not they fit properly. Did you know that more than 75% of women
wear the WRONG size? And the most common error they make is buying too
big a band size with too small a cup size.

Bras are like shoes: the 'right' size in one make may fit you better
than the right size in another. A good fitter will be able to fit you
into not just the right size, but also the right style and make for
your shape. I find the best fit for me at present are Fantasy and
Marks & Spencers (and a lot of their bras are made for them by Charnos)
in a 32F. The best style is a half cup with underwires and no padding.

--
Kate XXXXXX R.C.T.Q Madame Chef des Trolls
Lady Catherine, Wardrobe Mistress of the Chocolate Buttons
http://www.katedicey.co.uk
Click on Kate's Pages and explore!








  #30  
Old January 6th 06, 11:26 PM posted to rec.crafts.textiles.quilting
external usenet poster
 
Posts: n/a
Default Placement of sewing machine

Lots of good advice here, and I can recommend the book "Rx for Quilters."

Monique in TX, a fount of bad posture habits!
 




Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

vB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Forum Jump

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
FAQ for RCTQ Dec 2005 frood Quilting 6 December 8th 05 02:30 AM
RCTQ FAQ Nov 2005 frood Quilting 3 November 6th 05 10:22 PM
FAQs for Newbies and Longtimers Diana Curtis Quilting 21 December 8th 03 01:52 PM
RCTN Reminder: NY gathering at Stitchery Row Nov. 1 georg Needlework 23 November 4th 03 11:32 AM
Old Sewing Machine Advice Diana Curtis Beads 9 August 22nd 03 06:01 AM


All times are GMT +1. The time now is 03:35 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.6.4
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Copyright ©2004-2024 CraftBanter.
The comments are property of their posters.