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#1
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^10 reduction
Hello,
The Studio I work at has purchased an Olympic Torchbearer kiln. We'll be firing to ^10. I haven't had that luxury for 13 years. I've been working in ^04-^6 electric using mostly commercial glazes. Can anyone recommend the latest and best book on ^10 reduction glaze formulas and firing? Thank You -nan- |
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#2
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^10 reduction
Oriental Glazes by Michael Bailey,
published by A & C Black in the UK (ISBN:0-7136-6214-X), University of Pennsylvania Press in the USA (ISBN:0-8122-1890-6) Comprehensive and thorough, but very readable; he doesn't write dry books. I think it's the best of the high fire books (he also wrote *Glazes cone 6* which many reviewers gave equal status to *Mastering Cone 6 Glazes* by Roy & Hesselberth). Steve Bath UK In article , Elderberry Blossom writes Hello, The Studio I work at has purchased an Olympic Torchbearer kiln. We'll be firing to ^10. I haven't had that luxury for 13 years. I've been working in ^04-^6 electric using mostly commercial glazes. Can anyone recommend the latest and best book on ^10 reduction glaze formulas and firing? Thank You -nan- -- Steve Mills Bath UK |
#3
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^10 reduction
Stephen Mills wrote:
Oriental Glazes by Michael Bailey, published by A & C Black in the UK (ISBN:0-7136-6214-X), University of Pennsylvania Press in the USA (ISBN:0-8122-1890-6) Comprehensive and thorough, but very readable; he doesn't write dry books. I think it's the best of the high fire books (he also wrote *Glazes cone 6* which many reviewers gave equal status to *Mastering Cone 6 Glazes* by Roy & Hesselberth). Steve Bath UK In article , Elderberry Blossom writes Hello, The Studio I work at has purchased an Olympic Torchbearer kiln. We'll be firing to ^10. I haven't had that luxury for 13 years. I've been working in ^04-^6 electric using mostly commercial glazes. Can anyone recommend the latest and best book on ^10 reduction glaze formulas and firing? Thank You -nan- I'd back Steve on that one and add "Glazes and Glazing Techniques" by Greg Daly to the list, again readable and above all, FUN.... Hugs Eddie |
#4
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^10 reduction
I agree; the books straightforward with stunning illustrations. I was unable
to put it down when it first dropped through the letter box. Steve. "Eddie Daughton" wrote in message ... Stephen Mills wrote: Oriental Glazes by Michael Bailey, published by A & C Black in the UK (ISBN:0-7136-6214-X), University of Pennsylvania Press in the USA (ISBN:0-8122-1890-6) Comprehensive and thorough, but very readable; he doesn't write dry books. I think it's the best of the high fire books (he also wrote *Glazes cone 6* which many reviewers gave equal status to *Mastering Cone 6 Glazes* by Roy & Hesselberth). Steve Bath UK In article , Elderberry Blossom writes Hello, The Studio I work at has purchased an Olympic Torchbearer kiln. We'll be firing to ^10. I haven't had that luxury for 13 years. I've been working in ^04-^6 electric using mostly commercial glazes. Can anyone recommend the latest and best book on ^10 reduction glaze formulas and firing? Thank You -nan- I'd back Steve on that one and add "Glazes and Glazing Techniques" by Greg Daly to the list, again readable and above all, FUN.... Hugs Eddie |
#5
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^10 reduction
Stephen Mills wrote:
Oriental Glazes by Michael Bailey, published by A & C Black in the UK (ISBN:0-7136-6214-X), University of Pennsylvania Press in the USA (ISBN:0-8122-1890-6) Comprehensive and thorough, but very readable; he doesn't write dry books. I think it's the best of the high fire books (he also wrote *Glazes cone 6* which many reviewers gave equal status to *Mastering Cone 6 Glazes* by Roy & Hesselberth). Steve Bath UK Thanks Steve, I've got the book on hold at the Public Library. -nan- |
#6
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^10 reduction
I'd back Steve on that one and add "Glazes and Glazing Techniques" by Greg Daly to the list, again readable and above all, FUN.... Hugs Eddie Thanks Eddie! I got it on hold at the library. -nan- |
#7
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^10 reduction
Stephen Powell wrote:
I agree; the books straightforward with stunning illustrations. I was unable to put it down when it first dropped through the letter box. Steve. Thanks Steve, I already read Mastering Cone 6 Glazes. A great book. -nan- |
#8
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^10 reduction
Nan before you fire your Olympic you may want to read the clayart archives on the Olympics. They are extremely hard to fire evenly from top to bottom. I know I have one. There are some good recommendations, but I have not tried them yet. Hope too, early this spring after it warms up some and I can make a load for it. |
#9
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^10 reduction
Randy wrote:
Nan before you fire your Olympic you may want to read the clayart archives on the Olympics. They are extremely hard to fire evenly from top to bottom. I know I have one. There are some good recommendations, but I have not tried them yet. Hope too, early this spring after it warms up some and I can make a load for it. Thanks Randy, I've heard that about the Torchbearer. I looked into buying on for myself a few years ago. I decided to stick with electric in my home studio. (I bought an L&L). The studio I'm going to work for had already made the decision (not my choice) to buy the Torchbearer and I've been hired to teach high fire, mix the glazes and fire the kiln. One big advantage I think the torchbearer will have is the small size, I won't have to wait so long to get a full load together and see results. Hopefully I'll get the studio going full-swing and we'll outgrow the torchbearer and need a bigger kiln. -nan- |
#10
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^10 reduction
In article , Elderberry
Blossom writes Randy wrote: Nan before you fire your Olympic you may want to read the clayart archives on the Olympics. They are extremely hard to fire evenly from top to bottom. I know I have one. There are some good recommendations, but I have not tried them yet. Hope too, early this spring after it warms up some and I can make a load for it. Thanks Randy, I've heard that about the Torchbearer. I looked into buying on for myself a few years ago. I decided to stick with electric in my home studio. (I bought an L&L). The studio I'm going to work for had already made the decision (not my choice) to buy the Torchbearer and I've been hired to teach high fire, mix the glazes and fire the kiln. One big advantage I think the torchbearer will have is the small size, I won't have to wait so long to get a full load together and see results. Hopefully I'll get the studio going full-swing and we'll outgrow the torchbearer and need a bigger kiln. -nan- I had a 7 cu ft version some years ago, and found that the baffle plate that Olympic recommend you put under the lid vent is an absolutely essential piece if you're going to get reasonably good firings. I also found packing the lower half of the kiln more densely than the upper half helped to reduce the difference between the two halves. A friend of mine had a 10 cu ft version which was easier to fire than the 7 cube! Steve -- Steve Mills Bath UK |
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