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#11
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Tapping
michele wrote:
some deep curves and especially s curves just won't break out w/any other method(that i have used). I usually start the break with runners on each end, then tap from where it is already splitting. ON the reverse of the score line! off center will cause CHIPPING! you can see the break as it follows the score. watch for fractures , tho. m(the hottest glass babe in town according to the folk tales) "Michael" wrote in message ps.com... Thanks for the insight on tapping. I avoided it on several earlier pieces but what I'm working on now has a lot of deep incuts and I was starting to get a lot of bad breaks. My rule is if I ruin two pieces in a row, I cut as close as I can on the third and grind the rest out. Tapping helps. I've also been using a custom-designed grozer that Javahut made for me that does a great job on the inside curves. Michael If I recall it right, it was Bert Weiss who had a tapping tool. A screwdiver is ground rounded - a thin round tip - placed on the reverse of the score and tapped with a light hammer. He used it for float glass over 100 mm thick. Might work on thinner transparencies , too. -lauri |
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#12
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Tapping
On Nov 12, 10:49 am, Lauri Levanto wrote:
michele wrote: some deep curves and especially s curves just won't break out w/any other method(that i have used). I usually start the break with runners on each end, then tap from where it is already splitting. ON the reverse of the score line! off center will cause CHIPPING! you can see the break as it follows the score. watch for fractures , tho. m(the hottest glass babe in town according to the folk tales) "Michael" wrote in message ups.com... Thanks for the insight on tapping. I avoided it on several earlier pieces but what I'm working on now has a lot of deep incuts and I was starting to get a lot of bad breaks. My rule is if I ruin two pieces in a row, I cut as close as I can on the third and grind the rest out. Tapping helps. I've also been using a custom-designed grozer that Javahut made for me that does a great job on the inside curves. Michael If I recall it right, it was Bert Weiss who had a tapping tool. A screwdiver is ground rounded - a thin round tip - placed on the reverse of the score and tapped with a light hammer. He used it for float glass over 100 mm thick. Might work on thinner transparencies , too. -lauri- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - 100mm?? Man, that's over 3 inches thick!! |
#13
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Tapping
"Chemo the Clown" wrote in message ups.com... On Nov 12, 10:49 am, Lauri Levanto wrote: michele wrote: some deep curves and especially s curves just won't break out w/any other method(that i have used). I usually start the break with runners on each end, then tap from where it is already splitting. ON the reverse of the score line! off center will cause CHIPPING! you can see the break as it follows the score. watch for fractures , tho. m(the hottest glass babe in town according to the folk tales) "Michael" wrote in message ups.com... Thanks for the insight on tapping. I avoided it on several earlier pieces but what I'm working on now has a lot of deep incuts and I was starting to get a lot of bad breaks. My rule is if I ruin two pieces in a row, I cut as close as I can on the third and grind the rest out. Tapping helps. I've also been using a custom-designed grozer that Javahut made for me that does a great job on the inside curves. Michael If I recall it right, it was Bert Weiss who had a tapping tool. A screwdiver is ground rounded - a thin round tip - placed on the reverse of the score and tapped with a light hammer. He used it for float glass over 100 mm thick. Might work on thinner transparencies , too. -lauri- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - 100mm?? Man, that's over 3 inches thick!! Hence the need for the hammer.... |
#14
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Tapping
"michele" wrote in message ... some deep curves and especially s curves just won't break out w/any other method(that i have used). I usually start the break with runners on each end, then tap from where it is already splitting. ON the reverse of the score line! off center will cause CHIPPING! you can see the break as it follows the score. watch for fractures , tho. m(the hottest glass babe in town according to the folk tales) Quote "(the hottest glass babe in town according to the folk tales)" While this is a non binary group, links to photos are just fine and, in fact, encouraged, I have heard. |
#15
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Tapping
Chemo the Clown wrote:
On Nov 12, 10:49 am, Lauri Levanto wrote: michele wrote: some deep curves and especially s curves just won't break out w/any other method(that i have used). I usually start the break with runners on each end, then tap from where it is already splitting. ON the reverse of the score line! off center will cause CHIPPING! you can see the break as it follows the score. watch for fractures , tho. m(the hottest glass babe in town according to the folk tales) "Michael" wrote in message ps.com... Thanks for the insight on tapping. I avoided it on several earlier pieces but what I'm working on now has a lot of deep incuts and I was starting to get a lot of bad breaks. My rule is if I ruin two pieces in a row, I cut as close as I can on the third and grind the rest out. Tapping helps. I've also been using a custom-designed grozer that Javahut made for me that does a great job on the inside curves. Michael If I recall it right, it was Bert Weiss who had a tapping tool. A screwdiver is ground rounded - a thin round tip - placed on the reverse of the score and tapped with a light hammer. He used it for float glass over 100 mm thick. Might work on thinner transparencies , too. -lauri- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - 100mm?? Man, that's over 3 inches thick!! SORRY, that was my typo. Correct is 10 mm -lauri |
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