Problems slumping Bullseye Irrids

I 've fused some larger irrids perfectly, but have ruined them slumping
in Bullseye molds.
The first , a round piece seemed to go down the sides first and ended up
with a slight dimple at the very bottom. On reslumping, even though I had
drilled another hole, the bubble grew.
The second piece was slumped into a square slumper . This time I ended up
with bubbles trapped 1/2 way up the sides on 2 corner sides.
I had asked Bullseye for irrid slumping tips after the first fiasco but
they did bot work.
Anyone have tips for fusing and slumping irrids through their trials and
errors??

do your molds have tiny holes drilled in the lower parts of them?

"WillMore" wrote in message
...
I 've fused some larger irrids perfectly, but have ruined them slumping
in Bullseye molds.
The first , a round piece seemed to go down the sides first and ended up
with a slight dimple at the very bottom. On reslumping, even though I had
drilled another hole, the bubble grew.
The second piece was slumped into a square slumper . This time I ended up
with bubbles trapped 1/2 way up the sides on 2 corner sides.
I had asked Bullseye for irrid slumping tips after the first fiasco but
they did bot work.
Anyone have tips for fusing and slumping irrids through their trials and
errors??

In article , "Charles Spitzer"
wrote:

do your molds have tiny holes drilled in the lower parts of them?

"WillMore" wrote in message
...
I 've fused some larger irrids perfectly, but have ruined them slumping
in Bullseye molds.
The first , a round piece seemed to go down the sides first and ended up
with a slight dimple at the very bottom. On reslumping, even though I had
drilled another hole, the bubble grew.
The second piece was slumped into a square slumper . This time I ended up
with bubbles trapped 1/2 way up the sides on 2 corner sides.
I had asked Bullseye for irrid slumping tips after the first fiasco but
they did bot work.
Anyone have tips for fusing and slumping irrids through their trials and
errors??


They had holes already drilled around perimeter of base.
Should I drill some more up the sides and in the base?

Nope, just slow down a touch, reduce you ramp a bit and lower the top end
temp. I will add a qualifier in saying that it has worked for me in the
past.

Give me an idea of your firing schedule now, maybe we can tweak it together,
and what kiln are you using? Does make a difference. I had a little
Paragon that was already slow enough, but when I fired the same thing in a
faster, larger kiln I had to go quicker to get a good bend. So give more
info...



"WillMore" wrote in message
...
In article , "Charles Spitzer"
wrote:

do your molds have tiny holes drilled in the lower parts of them?

"WillMore" wrote in message
...
I 've fused some larger irrids perfectly, but have ruined them
slumping
in Bullseye molds.
The first , a round piece seemed to go down the sides first and ended
up
with a slight dimple at the very bottom. On reslumping, even though I
had
drilled another hole, the bubble grew.
The second piece was slumped into a square slumper . This time I ended
up
with bubbles trapped 1/2 way up the sides on 2 corner sides.
I had asked Bullseye for irrid slumping tips after the first fiasco
but
they did bot work.
Anyone have tips for fusing and slumping irrids through their trials
and
errors??


They had holes already drilled around perimeter of base.
Should I drill some more up the sides and in the base?

In article , "Javahut"
wrote:

Nope, just slow down a touch, reduce you ramp a bit and lower the top end
temp. I will add a qualifier in saying that it has worked for me in the
past.

Give me an idea of your firing schedule now, maybe we can tweak it together,
and what kiln are you using? Does make a difference. I had a little
Paragon that was already slow enough, but when I fired the same thing in a
faster, larger kiln I had to go quicker to get a good bend. So give more
info...



The second time around I did this - 400 degrees per hour to 1180, hold
for 10 to 20 minutes, then cool as fast as possible to 960, hold for 30
minutes, then 100 degrees per hour to 700, hold 1 minute, and then cool to
room temperature.
This is the schedule Bullseye recommended after my first failure.
I use a 28" Jenken kiln.

"WillMore" wrote in message
...
In article , "Javahut"
wrote:

Nope, just slow down a touch, reduce you ramp a bit and lower the top
end
temp. I will add a qualifier in saying that it has worked for me in the
past.

Give me an idea of your firing schedule now, maybe we can tweak it
together,
and what kiln are you using? Does make a difference. I had a little
Paragon that was already slow enough, but when I fired the same thing in
a
faster, larger kiln I had to go quicker to get a good bend. So give
more
info...



The second time around I did this - 400 degrees per hour to 1180, hold
for 10 to 20 minutes, then cool as fast as possible to 960, hold for 30
minutes, then 100 degrees per hour to 700, hold 1 minute, and then cool to
room temperature.
This is the schedule Bullseye recommended after my first failure.
I use a 28" Jenken kiln.

How thick is your glass?

In article , "Javahut"
wrote:

"WillMore" wrote in message
...
In article , "Javahut"
wrote:

Nope, just slow down a touch, reduce you ramp a bit and lower the top
end
temp. I will add a qualifier in saying that it has worked for me in the
past.

Give me an idea of your firing schedule now, maybe we can tweak it
together,
and what kiln are you using? Does make a difference. I had a little
Paragon that was already slow enough, but when I fired the same thing in
a
faster, larger kiln I had to go quicker to get a good bend. So give
more
info...



The second time around I did this - 400 degrees per hour to 1180, hold
for 10 to 20 minutes, then cool as fast as possible to 960, hold for 30
minutes, then 100 degrees per hour to 700, hold 1 minute, and then cool to
room temperature.
This is the schedule Bullseye recommended after my first failure.
I use a 28" Jenken kiln.

How thick is your glass?

1 layer 1/8 plus 1 reg irrid - seems to fuse just over 1/4"

I have found Irrids to be much "stiffer" then regular glass. I don't know
if higher heat will help or not.

--
Connie Ryman
Cryman Studio

"WillMore" wrote in message
...
In article , "Javahut"
wrote:

"WillMore" wrote in message
...
In article , "Javahut"
wrote:

Nope, just slow down a touch, reduce you ramp a bit and lower the top
end
temp. I will add a qualifier in saying that it has worked for me in
the
past.

Give me an idea of your firing schedule now, maybe we can tweak it
together,
and what kiln are you using? Does make a difference. I had a little
Paragon that was already slow enough, but when I fired the same thing
in
a
faster, larger kiln I had to go quicker to get a good bend. So give
more
info...



The second time around I did this - 400 degrees per hour to 1180,
hold
for 10 to 20 minutes, then cool as fast as possible to 960, hold for 30
minutes, then 100 degrees per hour to 700, hold 1 minute, and then cool
to
room temperature.
This is the schedule Bullseye recommended after my first failure.
I use a 28" Jenken kiln.

How thick is your glass?

1 layer 1/8 plus 1 reg irrid - seems to fuse just over 1/4"

interesting to note that the irrid will burn off when exposed to the heat
necessary for a full fuse. maybe you have gas??? m
"C Ryman" wrote in message
news:T5Qod.5480$5v1.4179@trnddc06...
I have found Irrids to be much "stiffer" then regular glass. I don't know
if higher heat will help or not.

--
Connie Ryman
Cryman Studio

"WillMore" wrote in message
...
In article , "Javahut"
wrote:

"WillMore" wrote in message
...
In article , "Javahut"
wrote:

Nope, just slow down a touch, reduce you ramp a bit and lower the
top
end
temp. I will add a qualifier in saying that it has worked for me
in
the
past.

Give me an idea of your firing schedule now, maybe we can tweak it
together,
and what kiln are you using? Does make a difference. I had a
little
Paragon that was already slow enough, but when I fired the same
thing
in
a
faster, larger kiln I had to go quicker to get a good bend. So
give
more
info...



The second time around I did this - 400 degrees per hour to 1180,
hold
for 10 to 20 minutes, then cool as fast as possible to 960, hold for
30
minutes, then 100 degrees per hour to 700, hold 1 minute, and then
cool
to
room temperature.
This is the schedule Bullseye recommended after my first failure.
I use a 28" Jenken kiln.

How thick is your glass?

1 layer 1/8 plus 1 reg irrid - seems to fuse just over 1/4"

Possible solutions to these and other interesting predicaments may be found
at the bottom of the page!!

interesting to note that the irrid will burn off when exposed to the heat
necessary for a full fuse. maybe you have gas??? m


I have found Irrids to be much "stiffer" then regular glass. I don't
know
if higher heat will help or not.


The second time around I did this - 400 degrees per hour to 1180,
hold
for 10 to 20 minutes, then cool as fast as possible to 960, hold
for
30
minutes, then 100 degrees per hour to 700, hold 1 minute, and then
cool
to
room temperature.
This is the schedule Bullseye recommended after my first failure.
I use a 28" Jenken kiln.

How thick is your glass?

1 layer 1/8 plus 1 reg irrid - seems to fuse just over 1/4"

Hmm... 1/4 in when it goes in, leaves a bubble in "corner on the rounded
mold"?
Your schedule is certainly slow, so let's try faster, by the way, I am in
agreement with

Connie, but with a qualifier of "it depends which Irid it is, the lighter
colors seem to act stiffer, but they do in general, but the darker colors,
black, dark amber , dark purple, seem to bend easier and are generally
softer, or perhaps the term would be "heat absorbent"?

And Michele, Bullseyes irids are designed for fusing and do not burn off, at
least they haven't for me, on Full fuse which is much higher than bending
temp.

Will, try this schedule, which worked for me last week on some deep plates,
but my mold was different, but it should make no difference on results,
assuming a diameter of 15" app. by 1/4" thick glass, properly annealed.

from 300deg F per hour ramp to 750deg F, then 1200degF/hr ramp to 1260degF,
check the bend. Peek by lifting lid briefly, careful of the eyes, to see if
it is correctly bent, if by some chance it is not, leave the kiln to soak
here for 10 min and check again. I use ceramic molds and stainless molds
and have had no problem with any. When I have checked and all is correct, I
shut off the kiln and leave it alone,. With 1/4" glass I do not crash cool,
nor do I fire down. I use a 23" Evenheat, which is a brick kiln like your
JenKen. Try it an let me know.