Floating Blue and pinging

I'm wondering if anyone has any idea of how I can cure this pinging. I
glazed a whole load of Floating Blue and it came out beautiful! Only problem
is that I heard pinging after taking the pieces out of the kiln and for a
while after, which I think is not a good sign. (I took them out of kiln
below 200 degrees F) I used Standard clay #153 which is a buff stoneware
with 9% fine grog and says it's for cone 4-10). I usually bisque pieces at
04 - 05 and the load was fired to cone 5 with no slow cool down. I tried
firing another piece at cone 6 to see what would happen but it came out very
ugly and there was still some pinging although not as much. I'm hoping to
hear from others that are using Floating Blue or that can answer the
question of how to cure the ping for my next load. Should I try another
clay? Try adjusting the recipe?

Here is the recipe I used:
Nepheline syenite 47.3
Gerstley borate 27
Silica 20.3
EPK 5.4
Red iron oxide 2
Cobalt oxide 1
Rutile 4
Bentonite 2

Thanks,
Crystal
USA

i think this is normal, and on a larger scale explains how we get earthquakes.


i believe it's a temperature shock issue where pieces come out hot and the
shock to colder temps causes these little glaze fault lines to fracture or
ping. it's from cooling down in general.

i've had pieces ping for up to 2 weeks. i kind of like the sound. it's like
having a chorus of pots talking to you in the room...

certainly glaze fit is involved. the shrink rate of the glaze is not matched
perfectly with the clay body. however excessively thin pieces can also ping
even with a glaze that fits well on a larger thicker pot.

perhaps this always happens to you but you just never opened the kiln at quite
this temperature? therefore you didn't hear it before?

happy pinging!

steve






Subject: Floating Blue and pinging
From: "CNB"
Date: 4/17/2004 8:02 PM Pacific Daylight Time
Message-id:

I'm wondering if anyone has any idea of how I can cure this pinging. I
glazed a whole load of Floating Blue and it came out beautiful! Only problem
is that I heard pinging after taking the pieces out of the kiln and for a
while after, which I think is not a good sign. (I took them out of kiln
below 200 degrees F) I used Standard clay #153 which is a buff stoneware
with 9% fine grog and says it's for cone 4-10). I usually bisque pieces at
04 - 05 and the load was fired to cone 5 with no slow cool down. I tried
firing another piece at cone 6 to see what would happen but it came out very
ugly and there was still some pinging although not as much. I'm hoping to
hear from others that are using Floating Blue or that can answer the
question of how to cure the ping for my next load. Should I try another
clay? Try adjusting the recipe?

Here is the recipe I used:
Nepheline syenite 47.3
Gerstley borate 27
Silica 20.3
EPK 5.4
Red iron oxide 2
Cobalt oxide 1
Rutile 4
Bentonite 2

Thanks,
Crystal
USA










steve graber

I agree with the previous answer about temperature difference but
thought I bring up another possible cause.

Have you used Standard clay #153 before at cone 5/6? I have had glaze
fit problems with #153 in its lower range. The standard ceramic website
now lists the clay range as 6-10 instead of 4-10. I have used the same
glazes with other cone 6 clay bodies without the problems. (Not
floating blue specifically but 5 different blues including two
pre-mixed.) I have also varied the ramp down rates and opening
temperatures without much success.

If your ware is functional you definitely need to check for pinholes
with sharp edges that could trap bacteria and that the clay is
vitrified. (I have a collection of vases that slowly leak.) Initially
I was drawn to #153 because I could use it at cone 6 in my electric kiln
and cone 10 in the gas kiln but I have given up using it in the electric
kiln.

On the other hand, #153 does beautifully when I fire it at cone 10 in
a reduction environment. While not specifically designed for Raku I
have used it without problems - so far it has handled the thermal shock.

I have had a lot of success with Standard Ceramics cone 6 Grolleg
Porcelain - I think it is #365. (I realize it is a totally different
clay body from #153 but still Standard Ceramics.)

I don't know if this information helps or not. Good Luck.
- Kobey



CNB wrote:

I'm wondering if anyone has any idea of how I can cure this pinging. I
glazed a whole load of Floating Blue and it came out beautiful! Only problem
is that I heard pinging after taking the pieces out of the kiln and for a
while after, which I think is not a good sign. (I took them out of kiln
below 200 degrees F) I used Standard clay #153 which is a buff stoneware
with 9% fine grog and says it's for cone 4-10). I usually bisque pieces at
04 - 05 and the load was fired to cone 5 with no slow cool down. I tried
firing another piece at cone 6 to see what would happen but it came out very
ugly and there was still some pinging although not as much. I'm hoping to
hear from others that are using Floating Blue or that can answer the
question of how to cure the ping for my next load. Should I try another
clay? Try adjusting the recipe?

Here is the recipe I used:
Nepheline syenite 47.3
Gerstley borate 27
Silica 20.3
EPK 5.4
Red iron oxide 2
Cobalt oxide 1
Rutile 4
Bentonite 2

Thanks,
Crystal
USA

Thank you both for posts to my problem. Kobey this is the first time that I
used #153 at cone 5. This is the only glaze that I have calling for that
cone. Mostly I fire to cone 6 and I never got pinging at cone 6 with this
clay and the other glazes. Floating Blue did ping at cone 6 but only a few
times.

I have decided to switch clays and use #153 for cone 10 firing. Have you any
other experience with cone 4-6 Standard clays? Can you or anyone else
recommend Standard clays that are best for cone 6 glazes. I want to veer
away from clays that have that wide range of firing. Standard Clay is what
is available to me so I want to stick to that brand. Kobey you are correct
Grolleg Porcelain is #365. Do you throw with this clay? I've been wanting to
try porcelain again so I will get a box of this to play around with. Thanks.
I would also like to get cone 6 stoneware clay and they have several.
Much appreciation,
Crystal

"Kobey" wrote in message
...
| I agree with the previous answer about temperature difference but
| thought I bring up another possible cause.
|
| Have you used Standard clay #153 before at cone 5/6? I have had glaze
| fit problems with #153 in its lower range. The standard ceramic website
| now lists the clay range as 6-10 instead of 4-10. I have used the same
| glazes with other cone 6 clay bodies without the problems. (Not
| floating blue specifically but 5 different blues including two
| pre-mixed.) I have also varied the ramp down rates and opening
| temperatures without much success.
|
| If your ware is functional you definitely need to check for pinholes
| with sharp edges that could trap bacteria and that the clay is
| vitrified. (I have a collection of vases that slowly leak.) Initially
| I was drawn to #153 because I could use it at cone 6 in my electric kiln
| and cone 10 in the gas kiln but I have given up using it in the electric
| kiln.
|
| On the other hand, #153 does beautifully when I fire it at cone 10 in
| a reduction environment. While not specifically designed for Raku I
| have used it without problems - so far it has handled the thermal shock.
|
| I have had a lot of success with Standard Ceramics cone 6 Grolleg
| Porcelain - I think it is #365. (I realize it is a totally different
| clay body from #153 but still Standard Ceramics.)
|
| I don't know if this information helps or not. Good Luck.
| - Kobey
|
|
|
| CNB wrote:
|
| I'm wondering if anyone has any idea of how I can cure this pinging. I
| glazed a whole load of Floating Blue and it came out beautiful! Only
problem
| is that I heard pinging after taking the pieces out of the kiln and for
a
| while after, which I think is not a good sign. (I took them out of kiln
| below 200 degrees F) I used Standard clay #153 which is a buff stoneware
| with 9% fine grog and says it's for cone 4-10). I usually bisque pieces
at
| 04 - 05 and the load was fired to cone 5 with no slow cool down. I tried
| firing another piece at cone 6 to see what would happen but it came out
very
| ugly and there was still some pinging although not as much. I'm hoping
to
| hear from others that are using Floating Blue or that can answer the
| question of how to cure the ping for my next load. Should I try another
| clay? Try adjusting the recipe?
|
| Here is the recipe I used:
| Nepheline syenite 47.3
| Gerstley borate 27
| Silica 20.3
| EPK 5.4
| Red iron oxide 2
| Cobalt oxide 1
| Rutile 4
| Bentonite 2
|
| Thanks,
| Crystal
| USA
|
|
|

Sorry to take so long to get back to your question. The only other cone
6 Standard Ceramics clay I regularly use is #365. I have had great
success with this clay. For a porcelain body I think it throws well and
it has a great texture and beautiful white color. I haven't tried the
other cone 6 Standard Ceramic porcelains. (551 looks promising)

Years ago I tried 182 or maybe 181 but I fired it to cone 10 not cone 6.

I have recently moved away from Pittsburgh PA (USA) and therefore
Standard Ceramic clays are no longer as economical. I still may have
365 shipped but I will probably find an alternative to 153.

Good luck,
Kobey

CNB wrote:
Thank you both for posts to my problem. Kobey this is the first time that I
used #153 at cone 5. This is the only glaze that I have calling for that
cone. Mostly I fire to cone 6 and I never got pinging at cone 6 with this
clay and the other glazes. Floating Blue did ping at cone 6 but only a few
times.

I have decided to switch clays and use #153 for cone 10 firing. Have you any
other experience with cone 4-6 Standard clays? Can you or anyone else
recommend Standard clays that are best for cone 6 glazes. I want to veer
away from clays that have that wide range of firing. Standard Clay is what
is available to me so I want to stick to that brand. Kobey you are correct
Grolleg Porcelain is #365. Do you throw with this clay? I've been wanting to
try porcelain again so I will get a box of this to play around with. Thanks.
I would also like to get cone 6 stoneware clay and they have several.
Much appreciation,
Crystal

"Kobey" wrote in message
...
| I agree with the previous answer about temperature difference but
| thought I bring up another possible cause.
|
| Have you used Standard clay #153 before at cone 5/6? I have had glaze
| fit problems with #153 in its lower range. The standard ceramic website
| now lists the clay range as 6-10 instead of 4-10. I have used the same
| glazes with other cone 6 clay bodies without the problems. (Not
| floating blue specifically but 5 different blues including two
| pre-mixed.) I have also varied the ramp down rates and opening
| temperatures without much success.
|
| If your ware is functional you definitely need to check for pinholes
| with sharp edges that could trap bacteria and that the clay is
| vitrified. (I have a collection of vases that slowly leak.) Initially
| I was drawn to #153 because I could use it at cone 6 in my electric kiln
| and cone 10 in the gas kiln but I have given up using it in the electric
| kiln.
|
| On the other hand, #153 does beautifully when I fire it at cone 10 in
| a reduction environment. While not specifically designed for Raku I
| have used it without problems - so far it has handled the thermal shock.
|
| I have had a lot of success with Standard Ceramics cone 6 Grolleg
| Porcelain - I think it is #365. (I realize it is a totally different
| clay body from #153 but still Standard Ceramics.)
|
| I don't know if this information helps or not. Good Luck.
| - Kobey
|
|
|
| CNB wrote:
|
| I'm wondering if anyone has any idea of how I can cure this pinging. I
| glazed a whole load of Floating Blue and it came out beautiful! Only
problem
| is that I heard pinging after taking the pieces out of the kiln and for
a
| while after, which I think is not a good sign. (I took them out of kiln
| below 200 degrees F) I used Standard clay #153 which is a buff stoneware
| with 9% fine grog and says it's for cone 4-10). I usually bisque pieces
at
| 04 - 05 and the load was fired to cone 5 with no slow cool down. I tried
| firing another piece at cone 6 to see what would happen but it came out
very
| ugly and there was still some pinging although not as much. I'm hoping
to
| hear from others that are using Floating Blue or that can answer the
| question of how to cure the ping for my next load. Should I try another
| clay? Try adjusting the recipe?
|
| Here is the recipe I used:
| Nepheline syenite 47.3
| Gerstley borate 27
| Silica 20.3
| EPK 5.4
| Red iron oxide 2
| Cobalt oxide 1
| Rutile 4
| Bentonite 2
|
| Thanks,
| Crystal
| USA
|
|
|

That's O.K. Thank you. I will keep the 365 Porcelain in mind. I do want to
work with porcelain in the future. I had some clay 153 that I bought a
while back and I'm going to try that with the Floating Blue and see if it
helps. I decided I'm going to buy several of the cone 4-6 clays and see
which one I like best. I want to try one that is reddish and see how I like
it. I've never worked with a red toned clay yet. I have used the 182 and
it's nice but I like a buff colored clay better. The 182 is a great throwing
clay though. Someone in the area that you are moving may carry the clays
that you use. I get my Standard Clay from Gulfport, Mississippi (USA).
Good luck in your move and thanks for your reply,
Crystal

"Kobey" wrote in message
...
| Sorry to take so long to get back to your question. The only other cone
| 6 Standard Ceramics clay I regularly use is #365. I have had great
| success with this clay. For a porcelain body I think it throws well and
| it has a great texture and beautiful white color. I haven't tried the
| other cone 6 Standard Ceramic porcelains. (551 looks promising)
|
| Years ago I tried 182 or maybe 181 but I fired it to cone 10 not cone 6.
|
| I have recently moved away from Pittsburgh PA (USA) and therefore
| Standard Ceramic clays are no longer as economical. I still may have
| 365 shipped but I will probably find an alternative to 153.
|
| Good luck,
| Kobey
|
| CNB wrote:
| Thank you both for posts to my problem. Kobey this is the first time
that I
| used #153 at cone 5. This is the only glaze that I have calling for that
| cone. Mostly I fire to cone 6 and I never got pinging at cone 6 with
this
| clay and the other glazes. Floating Blue did ping at cone 6 but only a
few
| times.
|
| I have decided to switch clays and use #153 for cone 10 firing. Have you
any
| other experience with cone 4-6 Standard clays? Can you or anyone else
| recommend Standard clays that are best for cone 6 glazes. I want to veer
| away from clays that have that wide range of firing. Standard Clay is
what
| is available to me so I want to stick to that brand. Kobey you are
correct
| Grolleg Porcelain is #365. Do you throw with this clay? I've been
wanting to
| try porcelain again so I will get a box of this to play around with.
Thanks.
| I would also like to get cone 6 stoneware clay and they have several.
| Much appreciation,
| Crystal
|
| "Kobey" wrote in message
| ...
| | I agree with the previous answer about temperature difference but
| | thought I bring up another possible cause.
| |
| | Have you used Standard clay #153 before at cone 5/6? I have had glaze
| | fit problems with #153 in its lower range. The standard ceramic
website
| | now lists the clay range as 6-10 instead of 4-10. I have used the
same
| | glazes with other cone 6 clay bodies without the problems. (Not
| | floating blue specifically but 5 different blues including two
| | pre-mixed.) I have also varied the ramp down rates and opening
| | temperatures without much success.
| |
| | If your ware is functional you definitely need to check for pinholes
| | with sharp edges that could trap bacteria and that the clay is
| | vitrified. (I have a collection of vases that slowly leak.)
Initially
| | I was drawn to #153 because I could use it at cone 6 in my electric
kiln
| | and cone 10 in the gas kiln but I have given up using it in the
electric
| | kiln.
| |
| | On the other hand, #153 does beautifully when I fire it at cone 10 in
| | a reduction environment. While not specifically designed for Raku I
| | have used it without problems - so far it has handled the thermal
shock.
| |
| | I have had a lot of success with Standard Ceramics cone 6 Grolleg
| | Porcelain - I think it is #365. (I realize it is a totally different
| | clay body from #153 but still Standard Ceramics.)
| |
| | I don't know if this information helps or not. Good Luck.
| | - Kobey
| |
| |
| |
| | CNB wrote:
| |
| | I'm wondering if anyone has any idea of how I can cure this pinging.
I
| | glazed a whole load of Floating Blue and it came out beautiful! Only
| problem
| | is that I heard pinging after taking the pieces out of the kiln and
for
| a
| | while after, which I think is not a good sign. (I took them out of
kiln
| | below 200 degrees F) I used Standard clay #153 which is a buff
stoneware
| | with 9% fine grog and says it's for cone 4-10). I usually bisque
pieces
| at
| | 04 - 05 and the load was fired to cone 5 with no slow cool down. I
tried
| | firing another piece at cone 6 to see what would happen but it came
out
| very
| | ugly and there was still some pinging although not as much. I'm
hoping
| to
| | hear from others that are using Floating Blue or that can answer the
| | question of how to cure the ping for my next load. Should I try
another
| | clay? Try adjusting the recipe?
| |
| | Here is the recipe I used:
| | Nepheline syenite 47.3
| | Gerstley borate 27
| | Silica 20.3
| | EPK 5.4
| | Red iron oxide 2
| | Cobalt oxide 1
| | Rutile 4
| | Bentonite 2
| |
| | Thanks,
| | Crystal
| | USA
| |
| |
| |
|
|
|