Problems slumping Bullseye Irrids

In article , "Javahut"
wrote:


Hmm... 1/4 in when it goes in, leaves a bubble in "corner on the rounded
mold"?
Your schedule is certainly slow, so let's try faster, by the way, I am in
agreement with

Connie, but with a qualifier of "it depends which Irid it is, the lighter
colors seem to act stiffer, but they do in general, but the darker colors,
black, dark amber , dark purple, seem to bend easier and are generally
softer, or perhaps the term would be "heat absorbent"?

And Michele, Bullseyes irids are designed for fusing and do not burn off, at
least they haven't for me, on Full fuse which is much higher than bending
temp.

Will, try this schedule, which worked for me last week on some deep plates,
but my mold was different, but it should make no difference on results,
assuming a diameter of 15" app. by 1/4" thick glass, properly annealed.

from 300deg F per hour ramp to 750deg F, then 1200degF/hr ramp to 1260degF,
check the bend. Peek by lifting lid briefly, careful of the eyes, to see if
it is correctly bent, if by some chance it is not, leave the kiln to soak
here for 10 min and check again. I use ceramic molds and stainless molds
and have had no problem with any. When I have checked and all is correct, I
shut off the kiln and leave it alone,. With 1/4" glass I do not crash cool,
nor do I fire down. I use a 23" Evenheat, which is a brick kiln like your
JenKen. Try it an let me know.


I am still wondering if I should drill more holes just in case.
I used a square ceramic slumper - not really a mold with corners.
Midway up the sides towards 2 corners it seemed to wave and have a broad bubble.

When I did a shallow 17" round, the dimple or small bubble was in the base.

This is getting really expensive when I ruin it.
One of the Bullseye Irrids I used is $38 a Sq. Ft in Canada, so the glass
one of the pieces was almost $160 OUCH!
I thought the hard part would be the fusing.

BTW I am Marim - not Will. Willmore is hybrid of my last name.

Another thing you might want to check is if your holes aren't plugged
with kiln wash, and some of those molds have a nice lip on the bottom,
but the air has no outlet when it's sitting directly on a shelf so
instead of getting squeezed out it's getting jammed up. You might try
setting the mold on some short kiln furniture. Obvious I know,
but........

"WillMore" wrote in message
...
In article , "Javahut"
wrote:


Hmm... 1/4 in when it goes in, leaves a bubble in "corner on the rounded
mold"?
Your schedule is certainly slow, so let's try faster, by the way, I am
in
agreement with

Connie, but with a qualifier of "it depends which Irid it is, the
lighter
colors seem to act stiffer, but they do in general, but the darker
colors,
black, dark amber , dark purple, seem to bend easier and are generally
softer, or perhaps the term would be "heat absorbent"?

And Michele, Bullseyes irids are designed for fusing and do not burn
off, at
least they haven't for me, on Full fuse which is much higher than
bending
temp.

Will, try this schedule, which worked for me last week on some deep
plates,
but my mold was different, but it should make no difference on results,
assuming a diameter of 15" app. by 1/4" thick glass, properly annealed.

from 300deg F per hour ramp to 750deg F, then 1200degF/hr ramp to
1260degF,
check the bend. Peek by lifting lid briefly, careful of the eyes, to
see if
it is correctly bent, if by some chance it is not, leave the kiln to
soak
here for 10 min and check again. I use ceramic molds and stainless
molds
and have had no problem with any. When I have checked and all is
correct, I
shut off the kiln and leave it alone,. With 1/4" glass I do not crash
cool,
nor do I fire down. I use a 23" Evenheat, which is a brick kiln like
your
JenKen. Try it an let me know.


I am still wondering if I should drill more holes just in case.
I used a square ceramic slumper - not really a mold with corners.
Midway up the sides towards 2 corners it seemed to wave and have a broad
bubble.

When I did a shallow 17" round, the dimple or small bubble was in the
base.

This is getting really expensive when I ruin it.
One of the Bullseye Irrids I used is $38 a Sq. Ft in Canada, so the glass
one of the pieces was almost $160 OUCH!
I thought the hard part would be the fusing.

BTW I am Marim - not Will. Willmore is hybrid of my last name.


You may not need more holes, may need larger slightly, but doesn't sound
like it?

Where in Canada, out of curiosity, Near London or Sarnia Ontario?


BY the way, your getting ripped...

You may not need more holes, may need larger slightly, but doesn't sound
like it?

Where in Canada, out of curiosity, Near London or Sarnia Ontario?


BY the way, your getting ripped...


I'm in Ottawa - about 7 hours from London or Sarnia.
Yes, I know I'm getting ripped off. Glass fusing is relatively new here in
Canada so the prices are truly outrageous and you have to wait weeks for
some colours. I waited 2 1/2 months for a Bullseye Granite.
I have ordered a great deal from the States and had it shipped up, and
even paying $65 upwards US for shipping I am still far ahead.
I paid $133 US for a bucket of frit plus $50 shipping. It was $380 Cdn here.


I think I will try your schedule and drill 2 more holes opposite the
others.( I hope I don't break my mold! )
I will let you know how it turns out.

Many thanks for everyones' advice.