Tired, tired subject

RUN AWAY, RUN AWAY

wrote in message
ups.com...



RUN AWAY, RUN AWAY

Apparently you are also familiar with the Great Cornholio, too?

I am now.

HI Moon

On Sun, 23 Sep 2007 11:51:23 -0400, " Moonraker"
wrote:

snip


You don't have to bathe the project in flux. A little dab'll do ya. If you
are thinking the iron is too hot because of the flux boiling, you may be
misled. Cut back on the amount of flux and/or change brands. Try some
"No-Korode Paste flux" from Home Depot. If the molten solder is flying all
over the place like frying grease from a skillet full of bacon, then you
most likely have a flux issue. Use a Q-tip to apply the flux,
sparingly......

I was following this thread - and just wanted to say a big 'Thank you'
for the above comments about flux & q-tips....

I've been working with glass for maybe 8 years - and soldering various
things (mostly electronics) for many years longer than that - but
never really thought about 'how much' flux was really necessary.

For a couple of years I've been using the standard 'flux brush' with
water-soluble flux - and had recently fitted some high-power extractor
fans in the new studio to get rid of the flux fumes.

Following your comments, I've just spent a happy couple of hours
soldering, using a q-tip to apply a very thin smear of flux, and being
able to run the extract fans slow enough that I could still hear the
MP3 player ! It's going to save me loads of flux, and lots of aggro

Many thanks sir - you're a scholar and a gentleman g

Adrian
West Cork, Ireland

"Adrian" wrote in message
...
HI Moon

On Sun, 23 Sep 2007 11:51:23 -0400, " Moonraker"
wrote:

snip


You don't have to bathe the project in flux. A little dab'll do ya. If
you
are thinking the iron is too hot because of the flux boiling, you may be
misled. Cut back on the amount of flux and/or change brands. Try some
"No-Korode Paste flux" from Home Depot. If the molten solder is flying
all
over the place like frying grease from a skillet full of bacon, then you
most likely have a flux issue. Use a Q-tip to apply the flux,
sparingly......

I was following this thread - and just wanted to say a big 'Thank you'
for the above comments about flux & q-tips....

I've been working with glass for maybe 8 years - and soldering various
things (mostly electronics) for many years longer than that - but
never really thought about 'how much' flux was really necessary.

For a couple of years I've been using the standard 'flux brush' with
water-soluble flux - and had recently fitted some high-power extractor
fans in the new studio to get rid of the flux fumes.

Following your comments, I've just spent a happy couple of hours
soldering, using a q-tip to apply a very thin smear of flux, and being
able to run the extract fans slow enough that I could still hear the
MP3 player ! It's going to save me loads of flux, and lots of aggro

Many thanks sir - you're a scholar and a gentleman g

Adrian
West Cork, Ireland



Aw, shucks. 'Twern't nuttin.

One of the by-products from SG work is blood lead poisioning. After my own
lead levels got way elevated, I was able to speak with a branch chief at
the (US) Centers for Disease Control who was in charge of lead abatement.
He firmly stated that the only way one could get lead into their system was
through ingestion (swallowing) or inhalation of lead dust/particles. Lead
does not enter the body transdermally. This guy is a MD with a specialty in
public health, and I got to spend almost an hour with him talking about the
lead poisioning issue.

He gave me some industrial hygiene tips, including avoiding inhalation of
flux vapors. While flux itself has no lead in it, the boiling action of
the flux picks up minisicule particles of solder as it melts and carries the
leaden fumes right into your face. Therefore it follows that the less flux
there is on your project, the less likely you are to have fumes.

Hi Moon

On Tue, 25 Sep 2007 16:37:46 -0400, " Moonraker"
wrote:


"Adrian" wrote in message
.. .
HI Moon

On Sun, 23 Sep 2007 11:51:23 -0400, " Moonraker"
wrote:

snip


You don't have to bathe the project in flux. A little dab'll do ya. If
you
are thinking the iron is too hot because of the flux boiling, you may be
misled. Cut back on the amount of flux and/or change brands. Try some
"No-Korode Paste flux" from Home Depot. If the molten solder is flying
all
over the place like frying grease from a skillet full of bacon, then you
most likely have a flux issue. Use a Q-tip to apply the flux,
sparingly......

I was following this thread - and just wanted to say a big 'Thank you'
for the above comments about flux & q-tips....

I've been working with glass for maybe 8 years - and soldering various
things (mostly electronics) for many years longer than that - but
never really thought about 'how much' flux was really necessary.

For a couple of years I've been using the standard 'flux brush' with
water-soluble flux - and had recently fitted some high-power extractor
fans in the new studio to get rid of the flux fumes.

Following your comments, I've just spent a happy couple of hours
soldering, using a q-tip to apply a very thin smear of flux, and being
able to run the extract fans slow enough that I could still hear the
MP3 player ! It's going to save me loads of flux, and lots of aggro

Many thanks sir - you're a scholar and a gentleman g

Adrian
West Cork, Ireland



Aw, shucks. 'Twern't nuttin.

C'mon now - don't be modest g

One of the by-products from SG work is blood lead poisioning. After my own
lead levels got way elevated, I was able to speak with a branch chief at
the (US) Centers for Disease Control who was in charge of lead abatement.
He firmly stated that the only way one could get lead into their system was
through ingestion (swallowing) or inhalation of lead dust/particles. Lead
does not enter the body transdermally. This guy is a MD with a specialty in
public health, and I got to spend almost an hour with him talking about the
lead poisioning issue.

Interesting

He gave me some industrial hygiene tips, including avoiding inhalation of
flux vapors. While flux itself has no lead in it, the boiling action of
the flux picks up minisicule particles of solder as it melts and carries the
leaden fumes right into your face. Therefore it follows that the less flux
there is on your project, the less likely you are to have fumes.

Good reasoning.

I have a couple of large ex-computer fans mounted through the studio
wall - above the soldering bench. As they happen to be mains-operated,
a standard lighting dimmer switch controls their speed.

Following the 'slap it on with a brush' approach, there were lots of
flux fumes, splashes and spits.

Under the new regime (q-tips), there's no difference in solderability,
but a lot less spitting and splashing - which can only be a good
thing. I was soldering up a batch of little tea-lights - which
consist of a back & two sides in standard mirror-glass. It was
interesting that one 'dip' of a q-tip was sufficient to flux all the
edges of the glass (probably 24" in total) - whereas before I was
using a 'flux-brush-full' of flux for each piece of glass.....

Funny how you think you know the way to do something -
then somebody comes along with a bright(er) idea ! g

Thanks
Adrian

I like the Q-tip idea for applying flux, too. Thanks! I was also
boiling flux like spattering bacon grease.

Michael

Moonraker wrote:

I have found with a great many people, their cutting improves when
they stop trying to shove the wheel thru the glass.

****************
Haha! You guys are incorrigible. Thanks for a good laugh before
heading off to bed.

Incidentally, got another 20 pieces cut on the Worden tulip lamp. At
this rate I should be able to deliver about 30 more progress reports
before it's finished.

Michael