Small opening

Dang beautiful here in NoCal. No hur'canes
in sight. Another good day above ground.


I often pass my rope or cord through an opening
not much bigger than the rope itself. What is the
preferred hitch for this attachment?

A small opening will not allow a double pass
as in a round turn & 2HH, or an anchor hitch.

I've looked though my books and I'm using
something called a lobster-buoy hitch. It ends
up looking like two half-hitches, but with
the end trapped against the anchorage.

Is this a good choice? What would you use?

Luke in Ca

x-no-archive: yes
"Luke 451" wrote:

Dang beautiful here in NoCal. No hur'canes
in sight. Another good day above ground.

Tell us that when an entire subdivision just slides down the slope and
disappears in the ocean. :-))

I often pass my rope or cord through an opening
not much bigger than the rope itself. What is the
preferred hitch for this attachment?

A small opening will not allow a double pass
as in a round turn & 2HH, or an anchor hitch.

Is there much load on your rope? Can you just pass it through the opening
and put a sturdy stopper knot on the other end? After all, that _is_ for
the most part the function of a "stopper knot".

--
Karl Pollak, British Columbia
Sea Scouting in Canada at http://www.seascouts.ca/

Luke 451 schreef:

I'm using something called a lobster-buoy hitch.

What would you use?


hi Luke,

you must tie it under load?
you have to untie it after heavy loading?
you untie and release it when loaded?
it has to stay tied under all conditions?
it has to be adjusted?
you can cut and waste the line afterwards?
there is plenty time and you can bring an instruction book?
you have only one hand available?
is it to halter an animal?

o, and an important one:
do other people have to be able to understand how to untie it?

examples:
I used a marlin spike hitch as a stopper knot with release

(out of curiosity) I used the HFP slippery 8 loop in monofilament,
to hang and adjust posters (thanks roo)

lobster buoy hitch? good solution

in non critical situations, I usually use something without thinking,
without a name

when I think of it, I use a loop knot I learned long ago
(to tie cows to a ring)
it needs only one tuck and it is a slipped loop knot
I never saw it mentioned in a book or website
I have to tie it, to see it, to discribe it here ...

actually it is a slipped buntline hitch
but not tied as a hitch, it is tied as a loop (through the eye or ring)
with the 'loop knot' away from the ring or eye (not snuggled up to it)

and the final (only) tuck with the doubled end (as a slipped end) is
pulled tight hard, parallel to the 'standing' part (away from the ring)
in such a way that the knot is spilled in a fixed form, not sliding
towards the ring
(does this make sense? I am not sure how to say this in English)

it is not the safest knot I suppose, I only use it in non critical
situations
but it never failed me, not even with cows
and (to my surprise) it never slided tight to the ring
and become a slipped buntline hitch)
now I think of it, it is not very different from a lobster buoy hitch
(that one is not mentioned often too)

knot thinking,

Ben

--- Shunryu Suzuki :
"In the beginner's mind there are many possibilities, in the expert's
mind there are few"

wrote in message
oups.com...
Luke 451 schreef:

I'm using something called a lobster-buoy hitch.

What would you use?


hi Luke,

you must tie it under load?
you have to untie it after heavy loading?
you untie and release it when loaded?
it has to stay tied under all conditions?
it has to be adjusted?
you can cut and waste the line afterwards?
there is plenty time and you can bring an instruction book?
you have only one hand available?
is it to halter an animal?

o, and an important one:
do other people have to be able to understand how to untie it?

Ben,

I had to chuckle at this, but I get your point. Everything
is conditional and answers depend on the conditions.

I'm making a permanent connection
in this case, and altho others will use it, I don't want them
having to alter it. No animals are involved and it's not under a
load when I tie it. I've tried a stopper (Ashley's) like Karl
suggested but I prefer the cord not being able slide.

Heck, two overhands probably would hold for years, but
where's the art in that?

I'll see if I can figure out the slipped buntline as a loop
that you described.

Thanks for your attn.

Luke in Ca

Luke 451 schreef:

I'm making a permanent connection
in this case, and altho others will use it, I don't want them
having to alter it.

Heck, two overhands probably would hold for years, but
where's the art in that?

I'll see if I can figure out the slipped buntline as a loop
that you described.


hi Luke,

no no,
I do not say a "slipped buntline as a loop"
is a knot I want to suggest to you
and I think it is not suitable for a permanent connection
yes yes,
I am interested what you think of it
(good name for now: "slipped buntline as a loop")

permanent connection, that is still a bit unclear ;-)
the most demanding connection ... the eye in a flapping sail?
since it can give repetitive beating, hold strong forces
and most demanding of all: withstand dangling without load

then, my candidate is the buntline hitch 'pur sang'
but you might need a knife to release it

good solution: lobster buoy hitch
or try an eye spice

knotting is art,

Ben

x-no-archive: yes
"Luke 451" wrote:

load when I tie it. I've tried a stopper (Ashley's) like Karl
suggested but I prefer the cord not being able slide.

No problemo, dude.

Just tie a double Matthew Walker before and after the rope passes through
the hole. Ellegant, permanent, no movement. Trim and finish off with a
neat sailmaker's whipping.

--
Karl Pollak, British Columbia
Sea Scouting in Canada at http://www.seascouts.ca/

suggested but I prefer the cord not being able slide.

No problemo, dude. Just tie a double Matthew Walker before and after

Unless one has braided rope, then the double (either side) stopper
solution is needed. There is a form of what might be called "the
fig.9" knot (one more half-twist than a fig.8, one less than the
Stevedore) that is symmetric, and surely stronger as a mid-line
knot than the Overhand. One could tie this and then finish by
setting the end-most Overhand stopper snug, or otherwise
use Ashley's Stopper and try to work the Fig.9 variant snug
(you might not care that it be all so completely snug).

For the symmetric Fig.9: tie an overhand such that the rope
runs from L to R, then anticlockwise up & back down crossing
UNDER and continuing around clockwise up OVER & tucked
out Under; now, end pointing upwards at this stage, bring it
anticlockwise back around and tuck out UNDER only the
last segment of the Overhand (part between its last two
tucks--the Over/Under ones). You'll need to work this tight,
but it doesn't further tighten under load, unlike say an Overhand
(hardest knot to unjam!) or Fig.8.

--dl*
====

A Mathew Walker on both sides would be the safest, don't you think?

Well, I pointed out that MW requires laid rope. But besides that,
no, I don't think it would be safest: if none of various methods
fails, they're equally safe; moreover, the MW knot is less bulky,
and that in itself might make it more vulnerable to pulling through.
But all this is a per-case assessment. I think that the MW would
be, as KP opines, most elegant! (Better be, for it will be the most
troublesome to tie.) So, choose as needs & desires dictate.

(-;

Luke 451 wrote:
load when I tie it. I've tried a stopper (Ashley's) like Karl

Are you refering to what Ashley called the Oysterman's stopper? That's
what I would use in the bitter end. For the standing part, I would like
to see a nicer lead such as the The double overhand knot (Ashley 516 in
my 1944 edition). I'd tie the Oysterman's first then tie the double
over hand and work it up snug against the opening.

Ted