Soldering information

Hi,

Many goldsmith and jewelry designers frequently ask us about the
soldering conduction, different types of solder and about cleaning
their jewelry after soldering.

Here are some points about soldering that I hope will assist you:

Soldering using soldering wires and/or sheets:
1=2E Immerse the whole piece of jewelry to be soldered in BORAX liquid
- this prevents the gold from blackening due to heat exposure
2=2E Immerse the solder (wire or sheet) in a liquid containing ACID
BORIC, before using the torch.
=B7 In order to improve soldering conduction, we recommend immersing
the solder in yellow borax.
3=2E Cleaning after soldering:
Immerse the soldered piece, when still hot, in a liquid solution
containing 10% SULFHURIC ACID and 90% water. The acidic solution will
melt the borax.

Soldering using soldering paste
Immerse the jewelry piece in an ACID BORIC solution before applying
soldering paste.

Tips:
=B7 When you have to solder the same point several times, you should
use different types of solder: It is recommended to first solder with
hard solder at a high temperature and then progress to medium and soft
solder at progressively lower temperatures.
=B7 When you need to solder very small pieces and you don't want the
solder to spread, you can use in soldering paste named: "STICKY".
=B7 In order to save time when soldering, use wires that already
contain solder.

Remarks:
=B7 Always use solder of the same karat as that of the jewelry piece,
so that it complies with universal jewelry standards.


We will be happy to hear more ideas, tips, questions and comments.

Hila
Pasternak Findings - jewelry Findings
http://www.pasternakfindings.com

On or about Thu, 13 Jul 2006 10:22:37 GMT, an entity identified as
"pasternak Findings - Jewelry findings"
proudly proclaimed:

Hi,

Many goldsmith and jewelry designers frequently ask us about the
soldering conduction,
snip

When I was learning to solder I asked, "How do you know when the
metals at the right temp. to take the solder?" (I bring the ball of
solder to the piece rather than cutting a bit and setting it on the
joint as I've seen some do.)
The answer was, "When it's salty."

Frosty
--

Anulos qui animum ostendunt omnes gestemus!

On Thu, 13 Jul 2006 10:22:37 +0000, pasternak Findings - Jewelry findings
wrote:

Hi,

Many goldsmith and jewelry designers frequently ask us about the
soldering conduction, different types of solder and about cleaning
their jewelry after soldering.
.......
Here are some points about soldering that I hope will assist you:
................
We will be happy to hear more ideas, tips, questions and comments.

The explanation did not cover making absolutely sure
that no oil or other contaminant that stops
flow is on either the workpiece or solder. Both chemical and mechanical
methods are commonly used.

pasternak Findings - Jewelry findings wrote:
Hi,

Many goldsmith and jewelry designers frequently ask us about the
soldering conduction, different types of solder and about cleaning
their jewelry after soldering.

Here are some points about soldering that I hope will assist you:

Soldering using soldering wires and/or sheets:
1=2E Immerse the whole piece of jewelry to be soldered in BORAX liquid
- this prevents the gold from blackening due to heat exposure
2=2E Immerse the solder (wire or sheet) in a liquid containing ACID
BORIC, before using the torch.
=B7 In order to improve soldering conduction, we recommend immersing
the solder in yellow borax.
3=2E Cleaning after soldering:
Immerse the soldered piece, when still hot, in a liquid solution
containing 10% SULFHURIC ACID and 90% water. The acidic solution will
melt the borax.

Soldering using soldering paste
Immerse the jewelry piece in an ACID BORIC solution before applying
soldering paste.

Tips:
=B7 When you have to solder the same point several times, you should
use different types of solder: It is recommended to first solder with
hard solder at a high temperature and then progress to medium and soft
solder at progressively lower temperatures.
=B7 When you need to solder very small pieces and you don't want the
solder to spread, you can use in soldering paste named: "STICKY".
=B7 In order to save time when soldering, use wires that already
contain solder.

Remarks:
=B7 Always use solder of the same karat as that of the jewelry piece,
so that it complies with universal jewelry standards.


We will be happy to hear more ideas, tips, questions and comments.

Hila
Pasternak Findings - jewelry Findings
http://www.pasternakfindings.com


You've missed two important points...
1. Heat the joint, not the solder. If you just heat the solder it will
ball up and do nothing. When the joint is hot enough the solder it will
melt and run into the joint.

2. Don't apply the heat too long. If the solder doesn't melt within
30-40 seconds or so there is a good chance that the flux will lose its
properties and the solder won't run even when the joint gets hot enough.
The most common cause is that the joint doesn't get hot enough to melt
the solder. If this happens, remove the heat, clean the joint and start
again with a bigger flame and/or better heat concentration.

--
Regards, Gary Wooding
(To reply by email, change feet to foot in my address)

--
Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com

Hi Hila,
thank you for the tips!
regards,
Jack
lemel_man wrote:
pasternak Findings - Jewelry findings wrote:
Hi,

Many goldsmith and jewelry designers frequently ask us about the
soldering conduction, different types of solder and about cleaning
their jewelry after soldering.

Here are some points about soldering that I hope will assist you:

Soldering using soldering wires and/or sheets:
1=2E Immerse the whole piece of jewelry to be soldered in BORAX liquid
- this prevents the gold from blackening due to heat exposure
2=2E Immerse the solder (wire or sheet) in a liquid containing ACID
BORIC, before using the torch.
=B7 In order to improve soldering conduction, we recommend immersing
the solder in yellow borax.
3=2E Cleaning after soldering:
Immerse the soldered piece, when still hot, in a liquid solution
containing 10% SULFHURIC ACID and 90% water. The acidic solution will
melt the borax.

Soldering using soldering paste
Immerse the jewelry piece in an ACID BORIC solution before applying
soldering paste.

Tips:
=B7 When you have to solder the same point several times, you should
use different types of solder: It is recommended to first solder with
hard solder at a high temperature and then progress to medium and soft
solder at progressively lower temperatures.
=B7 When you need to solder very small pieces and you don't want the
solder to spread, you can use in soldering paste named: "STICKY".
=B7 In order to save time when soldering, use wires that already
contain solder.

Remarks:
=B7 Always use solder of the same karat as that of the jewelry piece,
so that it complies with universal jewelry standards.


We will be happy to hear more ideas, tips, questions and comments.

Hila
Pasternak Findings - jewelry Findings
http://www.pasternakfindings.com


You've missed two important points...
1. Heat the joint, not the solder. If you just heat the solder it will
ball up and do nothing. When the joint is hot enough the solder it will
melt and run into the joint.

2. Don't apply the heat too long. If the solder doesn't melt within
30-40 seconds or so there is a good chance that the flux will lose its
properties and the solder won't run even when the joint gets hot enough.
The most common cause is that the joint doesn't get hot enough to melt
the solder. If this happens, remove the heat, clean the joint and start
again with a bigger flame and/or better heat concentration.

--
Regards, Gary Wooding
(To reply by email, change feet to foot in my address)

--
Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com