Tapping

Back when glass was new I did a few stained glass windows. I used one
of those generic green glass cutters with the ball on the end to tap
the glass from behind and deepen the crack and break the glass. I
remember doing that religiously. Now many moons later when I take up
the craft again, I notice that doesn't appear to be a standard glass-
breaking technique anymore. Is that correct? Any tapping going on
out there?

Michael

"Michael" wrote in message
oups.com...
Back when glass was new I did a few stained glass windows. I used one
of those generic green glass cutters with the ball on the end to tap
the glass from behind and deepen the crack and break the glass. I
remember doing that religiously. Now many moons later when I take up
the craft again, I notice that doesn't appear to be a standard glass-
breaking technique anymore. Is that correct? Any tapping going on
out there?

Michael


It still has it's uses, just not as much control, so there is more scrap,
generally speaking. Like anything else, the more you do it, the better you
get. For someone that uses that technique exclusively, they are probably
very good at it. I use it when I need to, usually on 1/4" plate, use it
alot then for beveled pieces.

Michael wrote:
Back when glass was new
5000 years ago?
I did a few stained glass windows. I used one
of those generic green glass cutters with the ball on the end to tap
the glass from behind and deepen the crack and break the glass. I
remember doing that religiously. Now many moons later when I take up
the craft again, I notice that doesn't appear to be a standard glass-
breaking technique anymore. Is that correct? Any tapping going on
out there?

Michael

I have notices that tiffany teachers teach tapping.
Kilnforming teachers avert from it.

If you tap *exactly* opposite the score, it opens well.
If you hit a bit on one side, it runs between the scolre and tapping
point, leaving sharb slanted edge.

Straight scores run against the table end or putting the ball end of
your cutter under glass and pressing with ahnds on both sides.


For difficult curves try first: lay the glass score down on some soft; a
rubbermat, old towel. Press with your thumb following the score from
opposite side.
(Easy with cathedral, guesswork with opals). That gives a nice
controlled run.
If it does not help, use running pliers or Mortom M-80.

-lauri

On Nov 9, 6:30 am, Lauri Levanto wrote:
Michael wrote:
Back when glass was new
5000 years ago?
I did a few stained glass windows. I used one
of those generic green glass cutters with the ball on the end to tap
the glass from behind and deepen the crack and break the glass. I
remember doing that religiously. Now many moons later when I take up
the craft again, I notice that doesn't appear to be a standard glass-
breaking technique anymore. Is that correct? Any tapping going on
out there?

Michael

I have notices that tiffany teachers teach tapping.
Kilnforming teachers avert from it.

If you tap *exactly* opposite the score, it opens well.
If you hit a bit on one side, it runs between the scolre and tapping
point, leaving sharb slanted edge.

Straight scores run against the table end or putting the ball end of
your cutter under glass and pressing with ahnds on both sides.

For difficult curves try first: lay the glass score down on some soft; a
rubbermat, old towel. Press with your thumb following the score from
opposite side.
(Easy with cathedral, guesswork with opals). That gives a nice
controlled run.
If it does not help, use running pliers or Mortom M-80.

-lauri

The opponents of tapping argue that it causes chipping. That is
correct - however, if instead of tapping directly on the score line,
you tap just slightly off the line, you can control where it chips.
All the scallops will be on the side you tapped on - leaving the other
side with overhangs that can easily be removed.

There are many different ways to break out a score but tapping permits
the cutting of shapes that are impossible to take out other then with
a saw.

wrote in message
oups.com...

The opponents of tapping argue that it causes chipping. That is
correct - however, if instead of tapping directly on the score line,
you tap just slightly off the line, you can control where it chips.
All the scallops will be on the side you tapped on - leaving the other
side with overhangs that can easily be removed.

There are many different ways to break out a score but tapping permits
the cutting of shapes that are impossible to take out other then with
a saw.


Wipe your mouth off, D-Anus. There seems to be some bull**** stuck to your
upper lip.

On Nov 9, 9:14 am, wrote:
On Nov 9, 6:30 am, Lauri Levanto wrote:





Michael wrote:
Back when glass was new
5000 years ago?
I did a few stained glass windows. I used one
of those generic green glass cutters with the ball on the end to tap
the glass from behind and deepen the crack and break the glass. I
remember doing that religiously. Now many moons later when I take up
the craft again, I notice that doesn't appear to be a standard glass-
breaking technique anymore. Is that correct? Any tapping going on
out there?

Michael

I have notices that tiffany teachers teach tapping.
Kilnforming teachers avert from it.

If you tap *exactly* opposite the score, it opens well.
If you hit a bit on one side, it runs between the scolre and tapping
point, leaving sharb slanted edge.

Straight scores run against the table end or putting the ball end of
your cutter under glass and pressing with ahnds on both sides.

For difficult curves try first: lay the glass score down on some soft; a
rubbermat, old towel. Press with your thumb following the score from
opposite side.
(Easy with cathedral, guesswork with opals). That gives a nice
controlled run.
If it does not help, use running pliers or Mortom M-80.

-lauri

The opponents of tapping argue that it causes chipping. That is
correct - however, if instead of tapping directly on the score line,
you tap just slightly off the line, you can control where it chips.
All the scallops will be on the side you tapped on - leaving the other
side with overhangs that can easily be removed.

There are many different ways to break out a score but tapping permits
the cutting of shapes that are impossible to take out other then with
a saw.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

I gave up tapping years ago and never have a problem. That's what
runners and ring pliers are for. And when I did tap, I never got any
chips.

wrote in message
oups.com...
On Nov 9, 6:30 am, Lauri Levanto wrote:
Michael wrote:
Back when glass was new
5000 years ago?
I did a few stained glass windows. I used one
of those generic green glass cutters with the ball on the end to tap
the glass from behind and deepen the crack and break the glass. I
remember doing that religiously. Now many moons later when I take up
the craft again, I notice that doesn't appear to be a standard glass-
breaking technique anymore. Is that correct? Any tapping going on
out there?

Michael

I have notices that tiffany teachers teach tapping.
Kilnforming teachers avert from it.

If you tap *exactly* opposite the score, it opens well.
If you hit a bit on one side, it runs between the scolre and tapping
point, leaving sharb slanted edge.

Straight scores run against the table end or putting the ball end of
your cutter under glass and pressing with ahnds on both sides.

For difficult curves try first: lay the glass score down on some soft; a
rubbermat, old towel. Press with your thumb following the score from
opposite side.
(Easy with cathedral, guesswork with opals). That gives a nice
controlled run.
If it does not help, use running pliers or Mortom M-80.

-lauri

The opponents of tapping argue that it causes chipping. That is
correct - however, if instead of tapping directly on the score line,
you tap just slightly off the line, you can control where it chips.
All the scallops will be on the side you tapped on - leaving the other
side with overhangs that can easily be removed.

There are many different ways to break out a score but tapping permits
the cutting of shapes that are impossible to take out other then with
a saw.


Such profound bull****.
will you never get tired of getting kicked in the nuts?

If you are hitting the glass that hard, change your cutting technique, cause
you are creating more problems than you are solving...... but then you are
used to that, aren't you.

I cut clear plate, for beveling, I sometimes tap, no chips anywhere, or
they would be visible when assembled, and after beveling. just tap
lightly, DIRECTLY UNDER your score. you should not be smacking so hard as
to make anything weird happen.

"Michael" wrote in message
oups.com...
Back when glass was new I did a few stained glass windows. I used one
of those generic green glass cutters with the ball on the end to tap
the glass from behind and deepen the crack and break the glass. I
remember doing that religiously. Now many moons later when I take up
the craft again, I notice that doesn't appear to be a standard glass-
breaking technique anymore. Is that correct? Any tapping going on
out there?

Michael



Yes we tap all day.... sounds like an Italian wedding in my shop. We
don't tap the straight lines, or the slight curves, or the small pieces.
Big deep curves are meant for tapping. We can then break them out in one
step without multiple cuts and breaks. In a production shop, speed and ease
are the goals. If you're at home you can cut and cut and grind all day if
you want to achieve perfection.


--
JK Sinrod
www.SinrodStudios.com
www.MyConeyIslandMemories.com

Thanks for the insight on tapping. I avoided it on several earlier
pieces but what I'm working on now has a lot of deep incuts and I was
starting to get a lot of bad breaks. My rule is if I ruin two pieces
in a row, I cut as close as I can on the third and grind the rest
out. Tapping helps. I've also been using a custom-designed grozer
that Javahut made for me that does a great job on the inside curves.

Michael

some deep curves and especially s curves just won't break out w/any other
method(that i have used). I usually start the break with runners on each
end, then tap from where it is already splitting. ON the reverse of the
score line! off center will cause CHIPPING! you can see the break as it
follows the score. watch for fractures , tho. m(the hottest glass babe in
town according to the folk tales)

"Michael" wrote in message
ps.com...
Thanks for the insight on tapping. I avoided it on several earlier
pieces but what I'm working on now has a lot of deep incuts and I was
starting to get a lot of bad breaks. My rule is if I ruin two pieces
in a row, I cut as close as I can on the third and grind the rest
out. Tapping helps. I've also been using a custom-designed grozer
that Javahut made for me that does a great job on the inside curves.

Michael