Tapping

michele wrote:
some deep curves and especially s curves just won't break out w/any other
method(that i have used). I usually start the break with runners on each
end, then tap from where it is already splitting. ON the reverse of the
score line! off center will cause CHIPPING! you can see the break as it
follows the score. watch for fractures , tho. m(the hottest glass babe in
town according to the folk tales)

"Michael" wrote in message
ps.com...
Thanks for the insight on tapping. I avoided it on several earlier
pieces but what I'm working on now has a lot of deep incuts and I was
starting to get a lot of bad breaks. My rule is if I ruin two pieces
in a row, I cut as close as I can on the third and grind the rest
out. Tapping helps. I've also been using a custom-designed grozer
that Javahut made for me that does a great job on the inside curves.

Michael



If I recall it right, it was Bert Weiss who had a tapping tool.
A screwdiver is ground rounded - a thin round tip -
placed on the reverse of the score and tapped with a light hammer.
He used it for float glass over 100 mm thick.
Might work on thinner transparencies , too.
-lauri

On Nov 12, 10:49 am, Lauri Levanto wrote:
michele wrote:
some deep curves and especially s curves just won't break out w/any other
method(that i have used). I usually start the break with runners on each
end, then tap from where it is already splitting. ON the reverse of the
score line! off center will cause CHIPPING! you can see the break as it
follows the score. watch for fractures , tho. m(the hottest glass babe in
town according to the folk tales)

"Michael" wrote in message
ups.com...
Thanks for the insight on tapping. I avoided it on several earlier
pieces but what I'm working on now has a lot of deep incuts and I was
starting to get a lot of bad breaks. My rule is if I ruin two pieces
in a row, I cut as close as I can on the third and grind the rest
out. Tapping helps. I've also been using a custom-designed grozer
that Javahut made for me that does a great job on the inside curves.

Michael

If I recall it right, it was Bert Weiss who had a tapping tool.
A screwdiver is ground rounded - a thin round tip -
placed on the reverse of the score and tapped with a light hammer.
He used it for float glass over 100 mm thick.
Might work on thinner transparencies , too.
-lauri- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

100mm?? Man, that's over 3 inches thick!!

"Chemo the Clown" wrote in message
ups.com...
On Nov 12, 10:49 am, Lauri Levanto wrote:
michele wrote:
some deep curves and especially s curves just won't break out w/any
other
method(that i have used). I usually start the break with runners on
each
end, then tap from where it is already splitting. ON the reverse of
the
score line! off center will cause CHIPPING! you can see the break as
it
follows the score. watch for fractures , tho. m(the hottest glass
babe in
town according to the folk tales)

"Michael" wrote in message
ups.com...
Thanks for the insight on tapping. I avoided it on several earlier
pieces but what I'm working on now has a lot of deep incuts and I was
starting to get a lot of bad breaks. My rule is if I ruin two pieces
in a row, I cut as close as I can on the third and grind the rest
out. Tapping helps. I've also been using a custom-designed grozer
that Javahut made for me that does a great job on the inside curves.

Michael

If I recall it right, it was Bert Weiss who had a tapping tool.
A screwdiver is ground rounded - a thin round tip -
placed on the reverse of the score and tapped with a light hammer.
He used it for float glass over 100 mm thick.
Might work on thinner transparencies , too.
-lauri- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

100mm?? Man, that's over 3 inches thick!!

Hence the need for the hammer....

"michele" wrote in message
...
some deep curves and especially s curves just won't break out w/any other
method(that i have used). I usually start the break with runners on each
end, then tap from where it is already splitting. ON the reverse of the
score line! off center will cause CHIPPING! you can see the break as it
follows the score. watch for fractures , tho. m(the hottest glass babe in
town according to the folk tales)


Quote "(the hottest glass babe in town according to the folk tales)"

While this is a non binary group, links to photos are just fine and, in
fact, encouraged, I have heard.

Chemo the Clown wrote:
On Nov 12, 10:49 am, Lauri Levanto wrote:
michele wrote:
some deep curves and especially s curves just won't break out w/any other
method(that i have used). I usually start the break with runners on each
end, then tap from where it is already splitting. ON the reverse of the
score line! off center will cause CHIPPING! you can see the break as it
follows the score. watch for fractures , tho. m(the hottest glass babe in
town according to the folk tales)
"Michael" wrote in message
ps.com...
Thanks for the insight on tapping. I avoided it on several earlier
pieces but what I'm working on now has a lot of deep incuts and I was
starting to get a lot of bad breaks. My rule is if I ruin two pieces
in a row, I cut as close as I can on the third and grind the rest
out. Tapping helps. I've also been using a custom-designed grozer
that Javahut made for me that does a great job on the inside curves.
Michael
If I recall it right, it was Bert Weiss who had a tapping tool.
A screwdiver is ground rounded - a thin round tip -
placed on the reverse of the score and tapped with a light hammer.
He used it for float glass over 100 mm thick.
Might work on thinner transparencies , too.
-lauri- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

100mm?? Man, that's over 3 inches thick!!

SORRY, that was my typo. Correct is 10 mm
-lauri