Solder

I generally use 60/40 solder and it works well for me. Can anyone tell me
about 50/50 and 63/37 Solder. When would you use them?
I was given some solder and it is unlabeled. I am sure it is not 60/40. It
sets up fast and gives a textured look which I don't care for.

Maggie wrote:
I generally use 60/40 solder and it works well for me. Can anyone tell me
about 50/50 and 63/37 Solder. When would you use them?
I was given some solder and it is unlabeled. I am sure it is not 60/40. It
sets up fast and gives a textured look which I don't care for.

50/50 sets slower so is sometimes preferred for use with lead because
it will set flat instead of leaving a rounded bead. At one time it was
the most common in use but how is so uncommon it's often difficult to
locate. It costs less then 60/40.

63/37 sets quicker so is used for decorative soldering. It costs more
than 60/40

60/40 works for both soldered joints on lead and solder beads on foil.
It's by far the most commonly used type and is the only kind stocked by
most stained glass retailers.

"Maggie" wrote in message
...
I generally use 60/40 solder and it works well for me. Can anyone tell me
about 50/50 and 63/37 Solder. When would you use them?
I was given some solder and it is unlabeled. I am sure it is not 60/40.
It
sets up fast and gives a textured look which I don't care for.


50/50 has a slightly higher melting temp than 60/40, which has a slightly
higher melting temp than 63/37.
Without the information right in front of me I would not want to quote exact
temps, but it is in the area of 50-75 deg difference between them, and what
is relative to their characteristics is the "pastie range" or range at which
it is still fluid, hence it's ability to "flow out". go the other direction
from melting temp where 63/37 stops moving when the heat is removed, 80/40
is a little forgiving and 50/50 flows out and remains fluid the longest, but
that is a relative term.
60/40 is the most commonly used solder for general purposes in use and
price.

the stuff you were given? could be 40/60, sets up fast, usually used in the
electronics field, or auto radiators, flows better with a torch than an
iron, except for small spot soldering. Pain to use for our type of work...

Most retailers? Every retailer I know (and I'm sure I know many more
than you) all stock both. It may be difficult to get in PA but it's
readily available through the rest of the states.

Andy

wrote:

60/40 works for both soldered joints on lead and solder beads on foil.
It's by far the most commonly used type and is the only kind stocked by
most stained glass retailers.

I can't say about the uses re stained glass but 63 Sn/ 37 Pb is
virtually the eutectic mixture and so will have the lowest melting
point and will go from totally solid to totally liquid as a step change.
Some further info is
http://www.chemguide.co.uk/physical/phaseeqia/snpb.html or you could
google "tin lead eutectic". The other solders will have a larger range
between the fully solid (solidus) and fully molten (liquidus)
temperatures. Certain solder uses such as car body filling solder have
a larger range between solidus and liquidus that allows the solder to be
worked in a mushy state.

Maggie wrote:

I generally use 60/40 solder and it works well for me. Can anyone tell me
about 50/50 and 63/37 Solder. When would you use them?
I was given some solder and it is unlabeled. I am sure it is not 60/40. It
sets up fast and gives a textured look which I don't care for.

I've use 60/40 on lead for over 30 years. Never had a problem with
getting flatt joints. The "rounded" comments refering to 60/40 joints
are NOT accurate. It all in the technique of the glazier.

"Maggie" wrote in message
...
I generally use 60/40 solder and it works well for me. Can anyone tell me
about 50/50 and 63/37 Solder. When would you use them?
I was given some solder and it is unlabeled. I am sure it is not 60/40.
It
sets up fast and gives a textured look which I don't care for.




You're doing the right thing.... all the technical stuff is BS anyway. The
only thing that matters is what looks and works the best for you. I start
my students off with a $2 glasscutter & 50-50 solder, so they'll appreciate
the difference when we use a carbide cutter, and 60-40 solder for their real
project. As a retailer I stock both at all times. Some oldtimers insist on
using 50-50 and cannot be budged.


--
"I'm not pompous, I'm SNARKY"
JK Sinrod
Sinrod Stained Glass Studios
http://www.sinrodstudios.com/
Coney Island Memories
www.sinrodstudios.com/coneymemories/