Flat pieces bending...

I have noticed that my flat pieces are showoing a tendency to cup upwards as
they dry. Is there anyway to prevent this? Thanks.

Unless there is a design on them, you can sandwich them between some
flat object like sheetrock or the like forcing them to dry flat. You just
want to create an environment where the rate of drying is equal in all
directions.. otherwise, covering them with plastic and letting them dry
ever so slowly may be your only other option.

What are they sitting on when the are drying?

Diego

"Noname" wrote in message
. com...
I have noticed that my flat pieces are showoing a tendency to cup upwards
as
they dry. Is there anyway to prevent this? Thanks.

"Noname" wrote in message
. com...
I have noticed that my flat pieces are showoing a tendency to cup upwards
as
they dry. Is there anyway to prevent this? Thanks.


Slow drying and having something flat on them to make sure they cannot warp.
The outside edges always dry first, this causes the cupping.

"Diego" wrote :

What are they sitting on when the are drying?

They dry part of the way in the mold, which is open on the top. Then I
turn them out on a glass pane to make sure the other side has smooth edges.

What they are is 6 in wide, 1/2 in thick trivets. I have the shape in a
open mold, I fill it with slip, and let it dry. MAybe I should pour off the
excess? I was letting it set because I want mass in the piece, but if I
poured it off it might dry more evenly.

yes pour the excess back then place a sheet of thin wood over the
mould and invert to release.using glass will make the underside remain
wet as moisture cannot escape whereas it will soak into the wood (or
piece of dry wall). then place another piece on top so it will not
warp when drying.

"paula" wrote in message
om...
yes pour the excess back then place a sheet of thin wood over the
mould and invert to release.using glass will make the underside remain
wet as moisture cannot escape whereas it will soak into the wood (or
piece of dry wall). then place another piece on top so it will not
warp when drying.

I am trying to make a very flat and smooth piece of mold plaster for
this purpose. Will that work? I really want the open side to be VERY smooth
(more of my accuracy problems), wood probably won't work unless I polish it.

I will see if drywall is available in small pieces.

in article , Noname at
wrote on 2/12/04 9:57 PM:


"Diego" wrote :

What are they sitting on when the are drying?

They dry part of the way in the mold, which is open on the top. Then I
turn them out on a glass pane to make sure the other side has smooth edges.

What they are is 6 in wide, 1/2 in thick trivets. I have the shape in a
open mold, I fill it with slip, and let it dry. MAybe I should pour off the
excess? I was letting it set because I want mass in the piece, but if I
poured it off it might dry more evenly.




Pouring off will cause slumping in the drying process. I do some similar
work. home.earthlink.net/~martin_kenny


--
Dundalk is in Co. Louth.
If you want to reach me use:

In my tile making projects I have experimented with drying the tiles on
flat pieces of bisque. I've made the bisque dying slabs and dried them
carefully under weight covered and very slowly. Its worth the effort
because I find the bisque slab absorbs water at a very fast rate
lessening the chance for warping and to be doubly sure I have put a slab
on top. This can only be done in small batches of tiles at a time,but
I've done a few kitchens this way and made money on the deal. You can
make the surface of the bisque slab as smooth as you like by burnishing.
Personally I hate plaster in my studio somehow sooner or later it shows
up in the wall of a pot ruining it. Nancy Jane





v

Like Nancy Jane I will not have plaster in my workshop. The exception is
what we in the UK call plasterboard, used to cover stud walls before
they are coated with plaster. I use plaster Lath, strips of plasterboard
used for ceilings. I tape over the cut ends with wide masking tape to
prevent any crumbs of plaster escaping and use them for high speed
drying. Tiles and the like dry underneath at the same speed as the top
surface. Another material I use for drying slops is a Vermiculite based
fire-resistant board known over here as *Vermiculux*. It is available 1
inch thick which is handy. When not used for drying it stands against
the wall, thereby releasing bench space for other operations, much
needed in a small workshop like mine!

Steve
Bath
UK


In article , Nancy Albin
writes
In my tile making projects I have experimented with drying the tiles on
flat pieces of bisque. I've made the bisque dying slabs and dried them
carefully under weight covered and very slowly. Its worth the effort
because I find the bisque slab absorbs water at a very fast rate
lessening the chance for warping and to be doubly sure I have put a slab
on top. This can only be done in small batches of tiles at a time,but
I've done a few kitchens this way and made money on the deal. You can
make the surface of the bisque slab as smooth as you like by burnishing.
Personally I hate plaster in my studio somehow sooner or later it shows
up in the wall of a pot ruining it. Nancy Jane





v




--
Steve Mills
Bath
UK

"Nancy Albin" wrote :

Personally I hate plaster in my studio somehow sooner or later it shows
up in the wall of a pot ruining it. Nancy Jane

Hmmm... so the advice I have found to make my molds out of plaster may
come back to bite me?