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Does anyone use and recommend the Ultimate Needlework System 4?



 
 
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  #1  
Old May 6th 04, 03:18 PM
sewingsusan
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Default Does anyone use and recommend the Ultimate Needlework System 4?

Hi! I am new to this list. I recently started doing crewel
embroidery and have discovered it to be a "crewel addiction" :-). I
did a search and read some past posts on crewel embroidery - for now I
have been learning the ropes with some "vintage" Erica Wilson and Elsa
Williams kits which I got off of Ebay. Since I so love doing this,
and find it to be very relaxing and peaceful, I want to invest in the
right "tools". I have a bit of a windfall coming to me in the next
month or so, and in anticipation I am plotting my splurges :-).

I know the Lowery Workstation is quite popular amongst serious
stitchers, but I ran across the "Ultimate Needlework System 4" while
doing a search on the internet for needlework stands, and it seems to
me to have a few advantages over the Lowery. Here is the link, for
anyone who may be interested:

http://www.stitchers-paradise.com/Stands/System_4.htm

I did a search and someone else asked this question about 5 years ago,
and no one responded. I am hoping there will be a response this time.
:-)

THANK YOU IN ADVANCE
Sewing Susan
Maplewood, MN
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  #2  
Old May 6th 04, 03:41 PM
external usenet poster
 
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Default

I love my system 4. It is extremely steady. The Lowery seems
quite tippy to me -- most people I know who use a Lowery
need to put a weight on the base to keep it from moving. I've
never had to do that with the System 4. I also like that it
is quite collapsible -- folds up easily and even goes in my suitcase.

On Thu, 6 May 2004, sewingsusan wrote:

Hi! I am new to this list. I recently started doing crewel
embroidery and have discovered it to be a "crewel addiction" :-). I
did a search and read some past posts on crewel embroidery - for now I
have been learning the ropes with some "vintage" Erica Wilson and Elsa
Williams kits which I got off of Ebay. Since I so love doing this,
and find it to be very relaxing and peaceful, I want to invest in the
right "tools". I have a bit of a windfall coming to me in the next
month or so, and in anticipation I am plotting my splurges :-).

I know the Lowery Workstation is quite popular amongst serious
stitchers, but I ran across the "Ultimate Needlework System 4" while
doing a search on the internet for needlework stands, and it seems to
me to have a few advantages over the Lowery. Here is the link, for
anyone who may be interested:

http://www.stitchers-paradise.com/Stands/System_4.htm

I did a search and someone else asked this question about 5 years ago,
and no one responded. I am hoping there will be a response this time.
:-)

THANK YOU IN ADVANCE
Sewing Susan
Maplewood, MN


^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
Katherine Becker "As god is my witness
I thought turkeys could fly"
NEVER SEND A FERRET TO DO A WEASEL's JOB --WKRP

^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
  #3  
Old May 6th 04, 05:21 PM
SBCKeating
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Default

I have the Needlework System 4 - bought it a few years ago when it first came
out I think. I love it! It is very stable and it is easy to flip it over to
get to the back of the piece. Can't think of anything bad to say about it!

They didn't have the 'travel' version when I ordered mine, but I would like to
get that some day. Mine is portable as is since it does fold up, but the
travel one folds up to a shorter length which would be nice.

Bonnie

Subject: Does anyone use and recommend the Ultimate Needlework System 4?
From:
Date: 5/6/2004 9:41 AM Central Standard Time
Message-id: on.edu

I love my system 4. It is extremely steady. The Lowery seems
quite tippy to me -- most people I know who use a Lowery
need to put a weight on the base to keep it from moving. I've
never had to do that with the System 4. I also like that it
is quite collapsible -- folds up easily and even goes in my suitcase.

On Thu, 6 May 2004, sewingsusan wrote:

Hi! I am new to this list. I recently started doing crewel
embroidery and have discovered it to be a "crewel addiction" :-). I
did a search and read some past posts on crewel embroidery - for now I
have been learning the ropes with some "vintage" Erica Wilson and Elsa
Williams kits which I got off of Ebay. Since I so love doing this,
and find it to be very relaxing and peaceful, I want to invest in the
right "tools". I have a bit of a windfall coming to me in the next
month or so, and in anticipation I am plotting my splurges :-).

I know the Lowery Workstation is quite popular amongst serious
stitchers, but I ran across the "Ultimate Needlework System 4" while
doing a search on the internet for needlework stands, and it seems to
me to have a few advantages over the Lowery. Here is the link, for
anyone who may be interested:

http://www.stitchers-paradise.com/Stands/System_4.htm

I did a search and someone else asked this question about 5 years ago,
and no one responded. I am hoping there will be a response this time.
:-)

THANK YOU IN ADVANCE
Sewing Susan
Maplewood, MN


^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
Katherine Becker



  #4  
Old May 6th 04, 07:26 PM
Pat Porter
external usenet poster
 
Posts: n/a
Default

Looks good - the only word of caution is the fact that it appears that it
has to stand in front of you against the Lowery sitting beside your chair
and it`s ability to just swing away from you with the flick of s screw
lever.

The other thing is that the clamp only opens to 1 and a quarter inches - are
you sure that this is enough?

Pat P

wrote in message
ighton.edu...
I love my system 4. It is extremely steady. The Lowery seems
quite tippy to me -- most people I know who use a Lowery
need to put a weight on the base to keep it from moving. I've
never had to do that with the System 4. I also like that it
is quite collapsible -- folds up easily and even goes in my suitcase.

On Thu, 6 May 2004, sewingsusan wrote:

Hi! I am new to this list. I recently started doing crewel
embroidery and have discovered it to be a "crewel addiction" :-). I
did a search and read some past posts on crewel embroidery - for now I
have been learning the ropes with some "vintage" Erica Wilson and Elsa
Williams kits which I got off of Ebay. Since I so love doing this,
and find it to be very relaxing and peaceful, I want to invest in the
right "tools". I have a bit of a windfall coming to me in the next
month or so, and in anticipation I am plotting my splurges :-).

I know the Lowery Workstation is quite popular amongst serious
stitchers, but I ran across the "Ultimate Needlework System 4" while
doing a search on the internet for needlework stands, and it seems to
me to have a few advantages over the Lowery. Here is the link, for
anyone who may be interested:

http://www.stitchers-paradise.com/Stands/System_4.htm

I did a search and someone else asked this question about 5 years ago,
and no one responded. I am hoping there will be a response this time.
:-)

THANK YOU IN ADVANCE
Sewing Susan
Maplewood, MN



^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
Katherine Becker "As god is my witness
I thought turkeys could fly"
NEVER SEND A FERRET TO DO A WEASEL's JOB --WKRP


^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^


  #5  
Old May 6th 04, 09:19 PM
sewingsusan
external usenet poster
 
Posts: n/a
Default

I love my system 4. It is extremely steady. The Lowery seems
quite tippy to me -- most people I know who use a Lowery
need to put a weight on the base to keep it from moving. I've
never had to do that with the System 4. I also like that it
is quite collapsible -- folds up easily and even goes in my suitcase.



THANK YOU KATHERINE!!!

This purchase is big bucks in my book, so I really want to do my
research. Of course it should be a lifetime investment.

You mention two of the reason why, according to what I read at the
"stitcher's paradise" website, I am considering the system 4. I would
definitely spring for the collapsible .

I also thought that the feature whereby the joints are somehow
mechanically inclined so that the project stays in place however you
place it, without having to constantly tighten wingnuts was really
"special" - so to speak. Have you had the opportunity to compared
this feature to the Lowery???

Right now I only use a hoop frame, a 1" thick x 10" Hardwick (german
made) hoop on a seat stand which I got on ebay (and really love
because it holds the fabric really tight) but I am constantly
tightening the wingnuts as I flip the hoop up and down and that gets a
little annoying - throws me out of rhythem!

I want to get a square frame, especially for some projects I have
planned using satin jean fabric (which wouldn't work in a hoop frame,
from what I have read.) I have gotten accustommed to two-handed
stitching, so I need a stand for such a frame. I would use the System
with a square frame - either a scroll-style frame with the sides laced
up, or I may spring for an English-style traditional slate frame (as
seen in the "Royal School of Needlework" and at the
"Accomplishments-Shop.com" website). I am currently doing crewel
embroidery and need the fabric to be really tight all the way around.

I want to do the "fish sampler" in the "Royal School of Needlework
Embroidery Techiques" book. My cousin is an advid fisherman and he
has helped me through some tough times, been like a brother to me, I
really want to do that picture for him and I think I need a square
frame because the satin jean fabric it calls can get marks on it from
a hoop frame (according to what I have read.) So that is the first
project I will want to do when I can get the right tools for the job!

Another question - You said that your system 4 doesn't tip - what
style and how heavy of a frame are you using with it???

Also - are you using the light and magnifier attachment?

THANK SO MUCH for responding to my request for an opinion on this
product, I don't have the opportunity to try it out before purchasing
it. Forgive me for asking you to indulge me with a few more answers
to my questions!

Sewing Susan :-)
  #6  
Old May 6th 04, 10:17 PM
Dianne Lewandowski
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Default

sewingsusan wrote:

I want to get a square frame, especially for some projects I have
planned using satin jean fabric (which wouldn't work in a hoop frame,
from what I have read.)


That is utter biased nonsense by whomever wrote it. I've done several
Mountmellick pieces - all in a 4-inch or 6-inch hand-held hoop. All on
cotton satin jean. Hoops do absolutely no harm to either the fabric or
the stitches. Not the satin jean from Ireland nor the satin jean sold
in America and made who knows where. I made several tray mats out of
the stuff, as well as drapes for my den. The mats with drawn thread
work . . . in case somebody decides to say you can't do drawn thread on
satin jean.

This fabric would work simply fine in your seat frame.

That doesn't mean you shouldn't purchase another type frame if that is
something you want to do. But your fabric in a hoop, whether tambour,
seat, or hand, once suitably bound and screwed tight, will hold fabric
as tight as you need it until you loosen it up. And it won't cause hoop
marks on satin jean, linen, cotton, blends. It will mark velvet, but
that can normally be steamed back in shape. I've used hoops for velvet
several times.

Not scolding *you* . . . just being emphatic about this myth that just
doesn't want to die a natural death. :-)

Dianne

  #8  
Old May 7th 04, 12:20 PM
sewingsusan
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Posts: n/a
Default

Dianne wrote:
That is utter biased nonsense by whomever wrote it. I've done several
Mountmellick pieces - all in a 4-inch or 6-inch hand-held hoop. All on
cotton satin jean. Hoops do absolutely no harm to either the fabric or
the stitches. Not the satin jean from Ireland nor the satin jean sold
in America and made who knows where. I made several tray mats out of
the stuff, as well as drapes for my den. The mats with drawn thread
work . . . in case somebody decides to say you can't do drawn thread on
satin jean.

This fabric would work simply fine in your seat frame.

That doesn't mean you shouldn't purchase another type frame if that is
something you want to do. But your fabric in a hoop, whether tambour,
seat, or hand, once suitably bound and screwed tight, will hold fabric
as tight as you need it until you loosen it up. And it won't cause hoop
marks on satin jean, linen, cotton, blends. It will mark velvet, but
that can normally be steamed back in shape. I've used hoops for velvet
several times.

Not scolding *you* . . . just being emphatic about this myth that just
doesn't want to die a natural . :-)

Dianne




Well Dianne - since I am rather new to all of this and have
self-taught myself with the aid of a 1/2 dozen or so books - I went
back to my sources to see who "wrote" that hoops are bad for satin
fabrics. I looked through every book until I found it in Erica
Wilson's "Crewel Embroidery" from 1962. That was probably my
source... plus the RSN recommends the square frame for the "Fish
Samler" in RSN's Embroidery Techniques... I hope to get that project
done by next Christmas. Still need to buy supplies for it AND,
especially, work on my skills a bit more.

I am still in that steep learning curve... thanks for all the help!
Susan
  #9  
Old May 7th 04, 02:43 PM
Dianne Lewandowski
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Default

sewingsusan wrote:

Well Dianne - since I am rather new to all of this and have
self-taught myself with the aid of a 1/2 dozen or so books - I went
back to my sources to see who "wrote" that hoops are bad for satin
fabrics. I looked through every book until I found it in Erica
Wilson's "Crewel Embroidery" from 1962.


Yes, and Erica Wilson (If not the primary source, no less the secondary
one) was the one that changed the way Fr. knots are made.

She made a huge contribution to the needlework world and I bless her for
the proliferation of good design and steering a yawning public back to
the artform. The Martha Stewart of her day. :-) (That statement will
surely rile a good bunch of RCTNers.)

One of these days I will get myself a floor frame. Large embroideries
(like robes) are best done on them. You can sit on the floor with them.

Embroidery is like any other artform: the more you learn, the more you
realize what you don't know. There's a lot of myth or generalized
admonitions that don't hold up under scrutiny. Heavens, even in the
painterly world arguments reign supreme over technique. It's just that,
since especially the 1960's when canvas and counted work began to get a
strong foothold, frames became the mantra.

Because of your inquiry, I've been digging out some books on what needle
to use for crewel embroidery. Interestingly, there's those who think
chenille needles work best, those that think you should use crewel
needles. One noted authority cautioned that chenille needles break and
bend easily, so crewels are best. That is the height of the ridiculous.
Crewel needles are much finer than chenilles - which are like tapestry
except they have a point. I've bent many a crewel needle, but never a
tapestry or chenille. That would take a good deal of heat and strength.

In the end, you have to use what works for you and not take seriously
anyone's single-minded thoughts about "musts". As many here have
figured out through time: The only rule is: the thread goes in the eye
of the needle. Actually, there are more rules than that - particularly
if you pick up some esoteric techniques such as Japanese embroidery.
But in the main, that's a good rule of thumb.

Dianne







That was probably my
source... plus the RSN recommends the square frame for the "Fish
Samler" in RSN's Embroidery Techniques... I hope to get that project
done by next Christmas. Still need to buy supplies for it AND,
especially, work on my skills a bit more.

I am still in that steep learning curve... thanks for all the help!
Susan


  #10  
Old May 7th 04, 06:42 PM
Diane Hare
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Default

sewingsusan wrote:
self-taught myself with the aid of a 1/2 dozen or so books - I went
back to my sources to see who "wrote" that hoops are bad for satin
fabrics. I looked through every book until I found it in Erica
Wilson's "Crewel Embroidery" from 1962. That was probably my
source...


I've never seen pictures of Erica Wilson using a "dressed" hoop. I
believe "dressing" will make a world of difference on more fragile
fabrics. Anyway, there are things we can get away with on cross-stitch
that wont'd work with lush wools or metal-thread embroideries.

I wasn't aware of full-dressing until this year. Half-dressing is
wrapping the inside of a plain (not lip'd) hoop with cotton floss or
yarn, as a cushion and to avoid direction contact with metal or
potential for wood splinters. The hoop's fully dressed if a separate
piece of fabric with a window smaller than the hoop's opening is used
between the working fabric and the larger hoop. The extra piece not
only cushions the fabric but also protects the stressed edge from direct
abrasion and incidental soiling.

Diane Hare

 




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