the best way to crush glass to make frits

Hi
Has anybody got a better method to crush glass to make frits? At the moment
I am putting it between canvas and whacking it with a 21/2 pound hammer but
the canvas does not last very long and I end up with bits of the cloth in
the glass. Any ideas will be well appreciated.
Thanks
Joe

"joe draper" wrote in message
...
Hi
Has anybody got a better method to crush glass to make frits? At the
moment
I am putting it between canvas and whacking it with a 21/2 pound hammer
but
the canvas does not last very long and I end up with bits of the cloth in
the glass. Any ideas will be well appreciated.
Thanks
Joe


This method looks promising....


http://www.wetcanvas.com/forums/show...threadid=90087

"joe draper" wrote in message
...
Hi
Has anybody got a better method to crush glass to make frits? At the
moment
I am putting it between canvas and whacking it with a 21/2 pound hammer
but
the canvas does not last very long and I end up with bits of the cloth in
the glass. Any ideas will be well appreciated.

Heat it up until it melts, then pour it into water. It should go into
sugar-like granules.
--
Terry Harper
http://www.terry.harper.btinternet.co.uk/

The current common method is to partly crunch the glass by heating and
dropping in water, then put it through an old
garbage disposal to grind it further.
Depending on how much you want, I have found that a heavy weldon pipe cap
(King Architectural Metals), a 1" steel rod, and a sheet of 1/4" plexiglas
with a 1" hole in it does a fine job of crushing glass by the cupful without
spattering all over and without trying to weld an end on a piece of pipe.
Shown about a third of the way down this page
http://users.ticnet.com/mikefirth/sulphide.htm
--
Mike Firth
Hot Glass Bits Furnace Working Website
http://users.ticnet.com/mikefirth/hotbit46.htm Latest notes

"Terry Harper" wrote in message
...
"joe draper" wrote in message
...
Hi
Has anybody got a better method to crush glass to make frits? At the
moment
I am putting it between canvas and whacking it with a 21/2 pound hammer
but
the canvas does not last very long and I end up with bits of the cloth
in
the glass. Any ideas will be well appreciated.

Heat it up until it melts, then pour it into water. It should go into
sugar-like granules.
--
Terry Harper
http://www.terry.harper.btinternet.co.uk/

Use an old blender. Use small amounts .
That is what we are useing.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...e=STRK:MEWA:IT

"joe draper" wrote in message
...
Hi
Has anybody got a better method to crush glass to make frits? At the
moment
I am putting it between canvas and whacking it with a 21/2 pound hammer
but
the canvas does not last very long and I end up with bits of the cloth in
the glass. Any ideas will be well appreciated.
Thanks
Joe

On Mon, 30 Aug 2004 12:25:30 -0700, "Charles Spitzer"
wrote:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...e=STRK:MEWA:IT

I have a baby one!
http://www.glasscompactor.com

Rusty Mase

In reading your material, I find the following of concern
1. You say the cost of shipping back to glass users is a major factor in
lack of recycling. Actually, accurate separation of color is far more
important. The most valuable glass to return is clear. Even one colored
bottle can mess up several hundred pounds of glass. And you do not mention
the color most likely to cause problems, because it can affect to much
glass - blue.
2. Compatibility of the glass with each of others mixed in is a problem
with any melt of glass.
3. Your suggestion that metals from the glass as they corrode will
provide mineral supplements is likely to crash on the fact that most colored
glasses contain tiny amounts of the coloring chemicals and modern glasses
are far less likely to "corrode" than specific examples of older glass. A
soda glass, as I recall, is far more likely to partially disintegrate than a
soda-lime glass. In fact, modern glass is used to encase chemicals so they
will not leach into the environment.

--
Mike Firth
Hot Glass Bits Furnace Working Website
http://users.ticnet.com/mikefirth/hotbit46.htm Latest notes

"Rusty Mase" wrote in message
...
On Mon, 30 Aug 2004 12:25:30 -0700, "Charles Spitzer"
wrote:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...176&ssPage Na
me=STRK:MEWA:IT

I have a baby one!
http://www.glasscompactor.com

Rusty Mase

On Mon, 30 Aug 2004 23:14:53 -0500, "Mike Firth"
wrote:

In reading your material, I find the following of concern
1. You say the cost of shipping back to glass users is a major factor in
lack of recycling. Actually, accurate separation of color is far more
important.

Yes, sorting by color is critical, even if you were using the cullet
locally as a crafts material. The transportation issue I think is
important, though. Waste glass containers are broadly distributed
throughout our communities. Collecting this safely, sorted by color
and type of glass is difficult and requires significant expenditure of
labor and fuel. I personally think it is the wrong way to approach
re-using this material. Collecting waste container glass on a smaller
scale and processing the cullet into locally made products might work
better.

2. Compatibility of the glass with each of others mixed in is a problem
with any melt of glass.

And very important to artists as the labor and technical expertise
they expend in a project warrants the use of a quality raw material.

3. Your suggestion that metals from the glass as they corrode will
provide mineral supplements is likely to crash on the fact that most colored
glasses contain tiny amounts of the coloring chemicals and modern glasses
are far less likely to "corrode" than specific examples of older glass. A
soda glass, as I recall, is far more likely to partially disintegrate than a
soda-lime glass. In fact, modern glass is used to encase chemicals so they
will not leach into the environment.

The difference between "crushed" glass and annealed glass needs to be
made. When you simply break soda-lime glass, edges are exposed that
are chemically reactive. If you anneal the particles those edges are
sealed and they loose reactivity. This is the reason glasscrete does
not work as the exposed edges react with the concrete matrix and with
time and moisture the concrete fails. Annealing the cullet for use as
an aggregate would not be cost effective. Using a good acrylic admix
in the concrete may prevent this but that too is expensive.

Rusty Mase

That is what I do. I purchased everything at the hardware store for about
$12.

This method looks promising....


http://www.wetcanvas.com/forums/show...threadid=90087