Whaddya callit?

I've never heard of "Tiger" brand cement.

Fast dry, like RIGHT NOW fast, from Houston among others, great for right
now sort of fixes, too fast for a whole panel, from what I tried. Just mix
my formula thicker, same same.


I like your idea of up-selling the re-bars. I take it that you are just
running them horizontally across the design, and not custom bending the
zinc
to match the lead lines? Bending zinc to fit (even with a jig that I need
to send back to "somebody" on this board) it pretty much a trial and error
proposition and I don't do it unless I am held at gunpoint. ;)

You both need to put in your truck large size manila or thick Kraft paper,
and a large size black carbon paper.

Lay the pattern paper on the broken window, or the panel in need of the
"bent " rebar, and rub it with the carbon to get a pattern that you can then
bend the rebar to, with that neat jig, practice makes perfect, and speeds up
the process when you do it more often, and forget the zinc, use pretinned
1/8" steel, 3/8" or 1/2"wide, gives a very nice result.
dremel cuts it neatly too.

You guys are working too hard by the way, you charging mileage for that
stuff?

"Javahut" wrote in message
...

You guys are working too hard by the way, you charging mileage for that
stuff?

I basically work 4 days a week and right now am booking work into the first
week of April. The next two weeks are slap full. I only schedule field
work on 4 days so that I have a shop day and/or a weather day to catch up.
I don't particularly like building new work, and I turn away a fair bit of
it because I can make twice the money doing repairs as anything else in
glass, with fewer costs and aggravations. As long as there are small kids
and big dogs to break out entryways, I'll have as much work as I want. ;)

Sounds like you and I have completly different ways of doing things.

It would be interesting to see how you do it. I have a job tomorow, If I
remember to take my camera I'll take pics.
I rarely take the door of it's pins and never take the panel out unless it
needs a total rebuild. By sawhorses, I mean I set up a little table about
2'x2' and that's my work surface. I would love to see your door moving rig.
How long does it take to do a two piece job. I'm about 1.5 to 2 hrs.


"Tiger" brand cement" is sold by Glass Craft, formerly Houston Stained
glass. It's a latex base, no oil like dap, and is mostly dry in 1 hr.
completly dry in about 12. It does have some drawbacks but Its nice to know
your glass is not going to move. When I do a web page on it I'll talk more
about it. It has it's quirks, but I never use whiting-no mess

I don't sell rebar to everyone, just the old flexible panels that really
need it. I try to be an honest guy. About one in 5 or so panels need it.
It takes about 45 min to 1hr to do one bar. For $50 I thinks it's a pretty
good deal, and your already there anyways. I always run them horisontally.
Putting a curve in rebar really takes away from its strength I think. A
curved bar just twists at the ends and tears away over time.
On compressors, I left mine at home too. I just fill up one of those
portable tanks and take that. Good enough for 2 jobs and it only costs
about $30.


Let me know if you want photos of any of this stuff..
ya, I'm sure we could learn from each other on this.


Liam

dang, 4 days a week? I do one or 2. How big is hour working area?

I charge $80 first piece
$50 extra peices

$50/ rebar
$400 rebuild

What are you charging?

Liam

"Liam" wrote in message
m...
dang, 4 days a week? I do one or 2. How big is hour working area?

I charge $80 first piece
$50 extra peices

$50/ rebar
$400 rebuild

What are you charging?

Liam




My work area is basically the 10 county metro Atlanta area. Population
about 4.5-5MM souls. The work is concentrated in about the 4 Northern
counties, as that's where the high end houses seem to be. I'm also
beginning to offer a door re-staining and re-varnishing service. I have
enough work to turn away calls that are "too far". I tell them that I'll
take their name and if or when I get enough inquiries in that area to make
it worth my travel time, I'll let them know.

I never charge by the piece. Rather than go through all the whys...here's
the whole thing: www.fixyourdoor.com , click on the "repairs" page. I
haven't counted all the work I have backlogged, but I bet it's 50 jobs right
now. I only have one competitor, and he's a total hack. For instance,
last summer I was going down a main drive in a subdivision and saw his van
in the driveway. He was working on a door. I went on to my customer's and
pulled the door panel out for a total shop rebuild. (His golden retriever
went "after" somebody at the front door.) Anyway, the following week I was
returning the repaired panel to the customer, and I stopped in front of the
other house. I could SEE the "repair" the other guy did from the street.
No ****!! He had used white DAP putty around the pane, and it looked like
somebody had taken "White-Out" and painted an outline on the glass. That
piece of glass shined like a diamond in a goat's ass. :(

It sounds like you might be doing a repair with the panel still in the door
and the door still hanging on the hinges, by folding the lead up and out of
the way so that you can wiggle a slightly undersized piece into the opening
and then refolding the lead back and holding the glass in place with the
Tiger Cement? I honestly don't know HOW to do that, every time I have
tried it, the panel looks like a 3rd grader had been working on it. I
wish I knew how...it would come in handy, sometimes. I can get the lead
folded up OK, but when I try to get it to lay back down is where the
problems start.

For a long time, I tried shaving the face of the came off and using clear
epoxy to hold the glass and came in place, but I never could get the epoxy
to adhere to the lead well enough, and I now have abandoned that idea execpt
in emergencies.

I never have been able to get hot solder to stick to a vertical surface.
(Damned gravity, anyway!) How do you do that trick?

I have been experimenting with removing the broken glass from the came,
removing half the lead face from one side of the came, and dropping a new
piece into the opening. I've foiled the new glass and just ran a small bead
of 70/30 solder around the new piece, blending it to the face of the old
came. I'm also experimenting with using self-adhesive lead foil instead of
the copper, but still soldering. I take a dremel with a sanding drum and
smooth the solder into the lead as needed, and then patina it. Looks pretty
good, I think.

It sounds like you might be doing a repair with the panel still in the
door
and the door still hanging on the hinges, by folding the lead up and out
of
the way so that you can wiggle a slightly undersized piece into the
opening
and then refolding the lead back and holding the glass in place with the
Tiger Cement?

Well, sort of. I never bend lead. It always looks like poop after. It
might be ok in a church window that is 20 feet up, but on a leaded door it's
right there, looking ugly. You can do it without bending lead. I'll set up
a semiprivate web page to show you, but you gotta send me a picture of that
door moving rig you have, and any other tidbits that you might think will
come in handy knowing.




I never have been able to get hot solder to stick to a vertical surface.
(Damned gravity, anyway!) How do you do that trick?
Hold your tounge under it. You are garanteed to have a short learning curve
this way. Seriously, if your soldering a rebar on, and the door is on it's
pins:
Before placing the rebar, wire brush or dremel the solder joints you intend
to solder the rebar to. flux them, and just tap the joints with the iron,
so that they turn silver, but don't get a chance to melt out. This gives
you nice fresh metal to solder the rebar to. Steel wool your rebar well.
Stick it in it's intended position. flux and add a tall bead to the rebar,
adjacent to the panel solder joint. Work/tease the solder bead towards the
glass, while pushing the rebar close towards the window. Wear gloves to do
this. when the bead dumps over the back side of the reabar it will stick
the the panel solder joints. Done.


I have been experimenting with removing the broken glass from the came,
removing half the lead face from one side of the came, and dropping a new
piece into the opening. I've foiled the new glass and just ran a small
bead
of 70/30 solder around the new piece, blending it to the face of the old
came. I'm also experimenting with using self-adhesive lead foil instead
of
the copper, but still soldering. I take a dremel with a sanding drum and
smooth the solder into the lead as needed, and then patina it. Looks
pretty
good, I think.

Hmm interesting. The lead foil, is that lead overlay stuff?
So you solder it to the other half leaf then use the dremel to smooth the
solder seam?

Look for my posting on leaded repair some time next week for the web page.

Liam

Done!
I'll get you the picture made today and send it along...
My brother owns a machine shop and made it for me. I don't know if he'd
make another one, or not.


"Liam" wrote in message
. com...
It sounds like you might be doing a repair with the panel still in the
door
and the door still hanging on the hinges, by folding the lead up and
out
of
the way so that you can wiggle a slightly undersized piece into the
opening
and then refolding the lead back and holding the glass in place with the
Tiger Cement?

Well, sort of. I never bend lead. It always looks like poop after. It
might be ok in a church window that is 20 feet up, but on a leaded door
it's
right there, looking ugly. You can do it without bending lead. I'll set
up
a semiprivate web page to show you, but you gotta send me a picture of
that
door moving rig you have, and any other tidbits that you might think will
come in handy knowing.




I never have been able to get hot solder to stick to a vertical surface.
(Damned gravity, anyway!) How do you do that trick?
Hold your tounge under it. You are garanteed to have a short learning
curve
this way. Seriously, if your soldering a rebar on, and the door is on
it's
pins:
Before placing the rebar, wire brush or dremel the solder joints you
intend
to solder the rebar to. flux them, and just tap the joints with the iron,
so that they turn silver, but don't get a chance to melt out. This gives
you nice fresh metal to solder the rebar to. Steel wool your rebar well.
Stick it in it's intended position. flux and add a tall bead to the
rebar,
adjacent to the panel solder joint. Work/tease the solder bead towards
the
glass, while pushing the rebar close towards the window. Wear gloves to
do
this. when the bead dumps over the back side of the reabar it will stick
the the panel solder joints. Done.


I have been experimenting with removing the broken glass from the came,
removing half the lead face from one side of the came, and dropping a
new
piece into the opening. I've foiled the new glass and just ran a small
bead
of 70/30 solder around the new piece, blending it to the face of the old
came. I'm also experimenting with using self-adhesive lead foil
instead
of
the copper, but still soldering. I take a dremel with a sanding drum
and
smooth the solder into the lead as needed, and then patina it. Looks
pretty
good, I think.

Hmm interesting. The lead foil, is that lead overlay stuff?
So you solder it to the other half leaf then use the dremel to smooth the
solder seam?

Look for my posting on leaded repair some time next week for the web page.

Liam

http://stainedglass.dns2go.com/lgdrepair/


But you gotta send me your firstborn. Hope you make lots of money, but
don't be showing this site off. I bet that would make some folks who depend
on secrets really hungry

Liam

excellent tutorial, Liam. Maybe a little vaseline on the glue chip in
advance of puttying could help clean-up go a little easier? m

"Liam" wrote in message
m...
http://stainedglass.dns2go.com/lgdrepair/


But you gotta send me your firstborn. Hope you make lots of money, but
don't be showing this site off. I bet that would make some folks who
depend
on secrets really hungry

Liam

"Liam" wrote in message
m...
http://stainedglass.dns2go.com/lgdrepair/


But you gotta send me your firstborn. Hope you make lots of money, but
don't be showing this site off. I bet that would make some folks who
depend
on secrets really hungry

Liam


Thanks for the information. I appreciate your efforts. Very well presented
and clear instructions.