Whaddya callit?

That was very useful. Thanks. Is it as easy as you make it look tho? :0/
Bon


"Liam" wrote in message
m...
http://stainedglass.dns2go.com/lgdrepair/


But you gotta send me your firstborn. Hope you make lots of money, but
don't be showing this site off. I bet that would make some folks who
depend
on secrets really hungry

Liam

ya, pretty easy. You just need to do it a couple of times to get reasonably
fast at it too. Very nice for stained glass fixes too.

I'll do a rebar demo when I get my next call for one.

Liam



"Bonnie" wrote in message
...
That was very useful. Thanks. Is it as easy as you make it look tho? :0/
Bon


"Liam" wrote in message
m...
http://stainedglass.dns2go.com/lgdrepair/


But you gotta send me your firstborn. Hope you make lots of money, but
don't be showing this site off. I bet that would make some folks who
depend
on secrets really hungry

Liam

Well let me qualify that. On straight line pieces, ya it's easy. For
pieces with some curves and some straight, not to bad, you just make the
longest straight line the line that you cut wide. for completly curved
pieces, you try you make your least curved piece the wide cut line, but you
end up doing a bunch of grinding. No help for it. Just keep grinding and
trying to fit it in.

Liam

Hi Liam,

Thanks for your very informative and graphic piece
on repair. Well done, too. You don't know how much more relieved I am
because of your input.
I'm about to finish my first lead came piece using
highly detailed textured glass. Have been sweating
out doing the cementing with all those nooks and crannies getting more of
the cement than needed.
Used to use a machinist's scribe. Never thought
I would ever use one again.

Hal
"Liam" wrote in message
. ..
Well let me qualify that. On straight line pieces, ya it's easy. For
pieces with some curves and some straight, not to bad, you just make the
longest straight line the line that you cut wide. for completly curved
pieces, you try you make your least curved piece the wide cut line, but
you
end up doing a bunch of grinding. No help for it. Just keep grinding and
trying to fit it in.

Liam

I really cant stress enough that tiger cement is not the best cement for
panels. Use a linseed oil base (oh no here we go again with a flury of
recipets) Everybody has a variation. here's mine and it works really well.

1 part boiled linseed oil (yes it comes that way)
1 part terpentine
enough whiting (discussed below) to make an extreamly thick pancake batter.

put you panel on ply wood. Use a natureal fiber floor scrubbing brush.
scoop up some putty and rub it into the panel, squeezing the putty into all
the cracks.
Then pour enough whiting to cover the panel 1/16" thick. use a second brush
to rub off the excess putty. The whiting will abosorb the excess. then use
a sharpened stick to go all around the lead lines to get the last little bit
of excess off. Flip the panel and do the other side. leave the panel flat
to dry for a week.

This putty will not stick like the stuff mentioned above, which is really
just for patching. The whiting will pick up all the excess and you don't
need to get any more agressive than that.

Whiting, also knowen as calcium carbinate is nothing but old fasioned feild
chalk. Don't get the lime variety. Get it at feed stores, hardware stores,
maybe acadamy, sporting goods stuff?

Liam

"Moonraker" wrote in message ...
"Liam" wrote in message
m...

Liam, what kind of a rig do you work from? I have a full size cargo
van
with built-in shelves and a built-in glass rack. I carry a portable
folding table with a top made of 2 thickness of 3/4" plywood for my work
surface, an aircompressor and nail gun, a propane radiant heater, and a
full
set of studio tools.
I have an old toyota van with pretty much the same set up. Same saw
horses
and board, grinder, tools, compresser and nail gun, a few sheets of
plywood
for boardup, dremel tool, rebar ($50/bar added) and you can sell these all
day. Rebar needs to be tapered out on to a point on the edges with a
file.
use a dremel and a bur to drill a hole into the molding. bend the rebar
(gotta be zink) a little insert the points into the molding, straighten
the
rebar. I see a lot of rebar that isn't atached to the door. I'm sure you
have notice the way it tears up the outside came strands. Do it my way
and
then the slamming force is transfered to the door, instead of the outside
lead line. You are going to need a good iron like a 150W hexicon or
something like it to solder efectively on the rebar. You can take the
door
off it's pins if you want to solder both sides of the rebar, but usually I
just do the top side with the door standing.

On glass I aslo stock a few reeded glasses. Pilkington "rain" glass. If
you find you don't have it on the van, then start stocking it. I stock
about 20 glasses.

Do you know about "Tiger brand glassing cement?

Liam


Working off sawhorses got old about the second time I did it. I had a
custom made "door mover" made out of aluminium stock that clamps over the
door top and bottom. Attached to this jig is a pair of folding legs,
adjustable height. If I need to take a door off it's hinges and work on the
panel while still in the door, I use this.

Mostly, (95% of the time), I pull the panel from the door, and put it on my
worktable. I think it's 30" wide and 84" long, with some folding
adjustable height legs (from McMaster-Carr). I stiffened the plywood with
some steel angle iron rib down the middle of the underside of the table.
It's heavier than hell, but I have a good surface to work on, with "fences"
on one long side and one short side. I've been looking at those folding
banquet tables with the plastic top, but the work surface is only 29" tall.
I'm used to working on a panel at 38"-40". It's much easier on my low back.

I found a source for some 1/2" thick 4'x8' sheets of expanded PVC foam board
like sign makers use. It's way lighter than plywood, weatherproof, and
pretty impervious to almost everything. I'm working on a set of brackets
that will hang over the top of the door, hanging the PVC board over the
opening where the glass panel was, and fastening it in place with a set of
bolts, with a crossbar to fit across the inside of the opening, and some
wingnuts to hold the panel in place. Sort of a "one-size-fits-all"
board-up. Some of these high-end gated communities get their knickers
knotted if you put a piece of raw plywood in a door and carry the panel off
to the shop for repairs. Unless it is terribly cold, I don't bother
boarding up a panel if I'm working on it at the residence. Mostly, I just
throw a tarp over the top of the door, and close it.

I've never heard of "Tiger" brand cement. Tell me more.......? I've been
using the premixed DAP1012 because it seems to match the lead color and is
pretty easy to handle. The label says its' OK for Stained Glass use.

I like your idea of up-selling the re-bars. I take it that you are just
running them horizontally across the design, and not custom bending the zinc
to match the lead lines? Bending zinc to fit (even with a jig that I need
to send back to "somebody" on this board) it pretty much a trial and error
proposition and I don't do it unless I am held at gunpoint. ;) Maybe I
could sell your idea. Thanks.

I found a really handy little compressor at Harbor Freight....3/4hp with
115psi. I put it and a 25' retractable air hose and a nailer in a canvas
tool bag with wheels and a pull-behind handle. Toting a big old compressor
in and out of the van and strapping it down just got to be too much. I had
some cast-iron ring bolts fastened into the floor of the van and used a
ratchet tie-down to hold the compressor in place. It just took too much
time to get it in and out and was too heavy to be lugging it 150' or more
from the van to the customer's entryway.

Let me know if you want photos of any of this stuff..

Call Midland Plastics, Inc. in Green Bay at 1-800-678-0870 for PVC Foam Board
and many other plastic products.