If this is your first visit, be sure to check out the FAQ by clicking the link above. You may have to register before you can post: click the register link above to proceed. To start viewing messages, select the forum that you want to visit from the selection below. |
|
|
Thread Tools | Display Modes |
#1
|
|||
|
|||
controller
Hello,
I recently aquired a kiln, but there are some issues. The biggest issue is that it runs on 220v and i do not have a 220v outlet in the garage i plan on using it in. I was wondering are the heating elements in it specific to 220v or if i was to replace the controller with a 120v controller would it still work. (I know enough about electricity to do that safely otherwise i would not even attempt it.) thank, jeff |
Ads |
#2
|
|||
|
|||
controller
On Thu, 19 Jul 2007 13:30:04 -0700, J wrote:
I recently aquired a kiln, but there are some issues. The biggest issue is that it runs on 220v and i do not have a 220v outlet in the garage i plan on using it in. I was wondering are the heating elements in it specific to 220v or if i was to replace the controller with a 120v controller would it still work. (I know enough about electricity to do that safely otherwise i would not even attempt it.) It might still work, but your biggest problem will be that it'll take forever to heat up. The elements have a fixed resistance, so by Ohm's Law, if you cut the voltage in half, you'll cut the current (in Amps) flowing through the elements in half. That'll cut the power (in Watts) by a factor of four. If the kiln was rated for more than about 30A at 220V, you'll have another problem: it'll want to draw more than the 15A your outlets are probably rated for, you'll blow a breaker, and it won't heat up at all. In addition to that, kiln designers carefully calculate all sorts of factors like power per square foot, power per cubic foot, power per square inch of element wire, and so on that will be thrown way out of whack if you give it 1/4 of the power it's expecting, so even if it does heat up in a reasonable amount of time, it's likely to give you poor performance. All in all, it's probably worth it to get a 220V outlet hooked up if you want to use that kiln. If you want to use 120V, sell that one and use the money to buy a little 120V kiln. (And it will be little, because 120 volts at 15 amps just isn't that much power, really.) |
#3
|
|||
|
|||
controller
"J" wrote in message oups.com... Hello, I recently aquired a kiln, but there are some issues. The biggest issue is that it runs on 220v and i do not have a 220v outlet in the garage i plan on using it in. I was wondering are the heating elements in it specific to 220v or if i was to replace the controller with a 120v controller would it still work. (I know enough about electricity to do that safely otherwise i would not even attempt it.) thank, jeff Sounds like your intentions are good but your thinking is off a bit. The controller is probably already 110, and running off one leg of the power coming in for the elements, you don't mention the maker of the kiln, and it really is not all that important, but to put a service box in and a 220 outlet off that is not an expensive endeavor, and it is a one time cost. Remember, even for the rest of the home, the kiln is not something that is drawing power all the time, only intermittent use. |
Thread Tools | |
Display Modes | |
|
|
Similar Threads | ||||
Thread | Thread Starter | Forum | Replies | Last Post |
Cambridge controller | Mike | Pottery | 0 | June 10th 05 06:48 PM |
Building a kiln controller | liam potts | Glass | 54 | February 16th 05 03:36 AM |
New controller! | Zander | Pottery | 0 | October 26th 04 01:46 PM |
Advice re Orton or Bartlett Controller | WillMore | Glass | 7 | March 23rd 04 12:16 PM |
Kiln controller instructions | Steve & Susan Wright | Beads | 0 | July 21st 03 01:24 PM |