Encouraging Devitrification

Javahut wrote:
wrote in message
ups.com...

wrote:
Actually, when I said 'motley' glass, I meant no-name and remaindered
glass (as opposed to 'mottled')...
However, I will still try out your suggestions and let you know the
results...
Thanks again,
Andrea

Rapid cooling from top temperature (1450) down to annealling
temperature (1000) is done to avoid or minimize devit.

Really?
Geez, just when I thought it was done to "stop the event that was currently
taking place."
I find it is done to AVOID DEVIT? I DON'T THINK SO DIPPY.

Do you know anything at all about kilnforming - or just make up crap to
start a fight?

Crash cooling from full temperature DOWN to annealing temperature is
done specifically to avoid devit. Here's a quote from Brad Walker's
tips:

"If you're fusing, flash vent to quickly "crash cool" from the fusing
temperature to just above the annealing zone."

You might consider buying a book on kilnforming before freely
distributing bogus information.

Moonraker wrote:
wrote in message
oups.com...

Moonraker wrote:
wrote in message
ups.com...

wrote:
Actually, when I said 'motley' glass, I meant no-name and
remaindered
glass (as opposed to 'mottled')...
However, I will still try out your suggestions and let you know the
results...
Thanks again,
Andrea

Rapid cooling from top temperature (1450) down to annealling
temperature (1000) is done to avoid or minimize devit. Why not try a
slow ramp from 1450 to 1000 to see if it maximizes devit?

Dennis Brady

Other way around, numbnutz.

Rapid heating once past the upper annealing temp on up to the work temp
prevents or minimizes devit. So a slow ramp UP "might" encourage
devit...except that devit is more a function of the composition of the
particular glass itself and not time vs. temp.

Why don't you take a big long shut up?

I'm still waiting to see some example of anything you've ever done.

Why? Little toy boat sales sinking? Need something to copy to bolster
your cash flow now that you've gotten busted for your kiln sales scam?


Both toy boat sales and kiln sales are at record high levels. You
can post under as many different phoney names on as many different
boards as you wish, and all it's doing is making more people aware that
Victorian Art Glass has TERRIFIC prices on kilns. They visit our
website to learn what you've crying about, see those TERRIFIC prices,
and place an order. I appreciate your efforts to improve sales for
Victorian Art Glass. It's been TERRIFIC.

Do you selling ANYTHING - or just mouth off on internet boards?

Dennis Brady

http://www.vicartglass.com - Victorian Art Glass (with TERRIFIC prices)
http://www.debrady.com - DeBrady Glassworks (with glass toy boats)
http://www.glasscampus.com - Glass Campus (with online classes)

wrote in message
oups.com...

Javahut wrote:
wrote in message
ups.com...

wrote:
Actually, when I said 'motley' glass, I meant no-name and
remaindered
glass (as opposed to 'mottled')...
However, I will still try out your suggestions and let you know the
results...
Thanks again,
Andrea

Rapid cooling from top temperature (1450) down to annealling
temperature (1000) is done to avoid or minimize devit.

Really?
Geez, just when I thought it was done to "stop the event that was
currently
taking place."
I find it is done to AVOID DEVIT? I DON'T THINK SO DIPPY.

Do you know anything at all about kilnforming - or just make up crap to
start a fight?

Crash cooling from full temperature DOWN to annealing temperature is
done specifically to avoid devit. Here's a quote from Brad Walker's
tips:

"If you're fusing, flash vent to quickly "crash cool" from the fusing
temperature to just above the annealing zone."

You might consider buying a book on kilnforming before freely
distributing bogus information.

You really are an ignorant twit.

It would be safe to say that Java has bent and fused more glass just this
past week than you have in the past year. He's forgotten more about
stained glass than you ever knew.

He could WRITE the book on kilnforming...if he weren't so busy making money
actually DOING the glass work instead of posturing like you do.

Moonraker wrote:
wrote in message
oups.com...

Javahut wrote:
wrote in message
ups.com...

wrote:
Actually, when I said 'motley' glass, I meant no-name and
remaindered
glass (as opposed to 'mottled')...
However, I will still try out your suggestions and let you know the
results...
Thanks again,
Andrea

Rapid cooling from top temperature (1450) down to annealling
temperature (1000) is done to avoid or minimize devit.

Really?
Geez, just when I thought it was done to "stop the event that was
currently
taking place."
I find it is done to AVOID DEVIT? I DON'T THINK SO DIPPY.

Do you know anything at all about kilnforming - or just make up crap to
start a fight?

Crash cooling from full temperature DOWN to annealing temperature is
done specifically to avoid devit. Here's a quote from Brad Walker's
tips:

"If you're fusing, flash vent to quickly "crash cool" from the fusing
temperature to just above the annealing zone."

You might consider buying a book on kilnforming before freely
distributing bogus information.

You really are an ignorant twit.

It would be safe to say that Java has bent and fused more glass just this
past week than you have in the past year. He's forgotten more about
stained glass than you ever knew.

He could WRITE the book on kilnforming...if he weren't so busy making money
actually DOING the glass work instead of posturing like you do.

,....and what glass work are you DOING?

wrote in message
ups.com...
Victorian Art Glass has TERRIFIC prices on kilns.

Price is one thing. Delivery is quite another. Having to deal with a lying
asshole like you is still another.

Anybody who wants to check, can log onto most of the other glass forums and
see how many compaints there are about VAG.

wrote in message
ups.com...

Moonraker wrote:
wrote in message
oups.com...

Javahut wrote:
wrote in message
ups.com...

wrote:
Actually, when I said 'motley' glass, I meant no-name and
remaindered
glass (as opposed to 'mottled')...
However, I will still try out your suggestions and let you know
the
results...
Thanks again,
Andrea

Rapid cooling from top temperature (1450) down to annealling
temperature (1000) is done to avoid or minimize devit.

Really?
Geez, just when I thought it was done to "stop the event that was
currently
taking place."
I find it is done to AVOID DEVIT? I DON'T THINK SO DIPPY.

Do you know anything at all about kilnforming - or just make up crap
to
start a fight?

Crash cooling from full temperature DOWN to annealing temperature is
done specifically to avoid devit. Here's a quote from Brad Walker's
tips:

"If you're fusing, flash vent to quickly "crash cool" from the fusing
temperature to just above the annealing zone."

You might consider buying a book on kilnforming before freely
distributing bogus information.

You really are an ignorant twit.

It would be safe to say that Java has bent and fused more glass just
this
past week than you have in the past year. He's forgotten more about
stained glass than you ever knew.

He could WRITE the book on kilnforming...if he weren't so busy making
money
actually DOING the glass work instead of posturing like you do.

,....and what glass work are you DOING?

Plenty...and I have no need to be bragging all over the web about it. Those
who "matter" know exactly what I do. You, sir, don't matter. Not to me,
not to any real glass professional.

Moonraker wrote:
wrote in message
ups.com...
Victorian Art Glass has TERRIFIC prices on kilns.

Price is one thing. Delivery is quite another. Having to deal with a lying
asshole like you is still another.

Anybody who wants to check, can log onto most of the other glass forums and
see how many compaints there are about VAG.

Why not log onto Lampworkers Etc and read the lengthy list of happy
recipients?

Plenty...and I have no need to be bragging all over the web about it. Those
who "matter" know exactly what I do. You, sir, don't matter. Not to me,
not to any real glass professional.


I gotta wonder, if I don't matter to you, why you have such an intense
interest in EVERYTHING I do.

I also gotta wonder why, if you're only concerned about those that
"matter" to you, you feel the need to always hide behind a phoney name.
Whatever alias you're currently using, (Moonracker, Glassdog, Dudley,
etc.) it's always an unquestionable indication of childish cowardice.


Dennis Brady, Professional Glass Artisan

wrote in message
ups.com...
I also gotta wonder why, if you're only concerned about those that
"matter" to you, you feel the need to always hide behind a phoney name.
Whatever alias you're currently using, (Moonracker, Glassdog, Dudley,
etc.) it's always an unquestionable indication of childish cowardice.


Dennis Brady, Wannabe Professional Glass Artisan

That's your best argument, eh? You couldn't refute a single statement, so
you obsess on something totally irrelevant, like somebody's screen name?
Go **** yourself.

Actually, avoiding devit is exactly the reason for crash cooling, no
matter how much you don't like Dennis.
Stopping movement of the glass could be done simply by dropping the temp a
hundred or two degrees, crashing way down to 1000 is to get through (out of)
the devit zone as quickly as possible.

--
Mike Firth
Furnace Glassblowing Website
http://users.ticnet.com/mikefirth/
"Javahut" wrote in message
...

wrote in message
ups.com...

wrote:
Actually, when I said 'motley' glass, I meant no-name and remaindered
glass (as opposed to 'mottled')...
However, I will still try out your suggestions and let you know the
results...
Thanks again,
Andrea

Rapid cooling from top temperature (1450) down to annealling
temperature (1000) is done to avoid or minimize devit.

Really?
Geez, just when I thought it was done to "stop the event that was
currently
taking place."
I find it is done to AVOID DEVIT? I DON'T THINK SO DIPPY.