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#1
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Tying down - dealing with an extra long rope
Hey Roo and all,
I have a question regarding tying a load down in a truck. Let me ask it by illustrating the situation. I had to transport a gas grill in a small pickup and had my trusty rope on hand and was going to tie it down with a truckers hitch by securing one end of the rope to the eyelet on the side of the truck, running the rope over the grill, and then through the eyelet of the other side of the truck (by eyelet, I just mean the holes provided on either side of the truck bed meant for tying rope to). I would then tighten the rope by threading the free (running) end back through a loop in the standing part and cinching it to tighten. The problem was that this was a 50' rope and so it gets quite clumsy threading the running end through the eyelet of the truck and then the standing loop. Of course, once its cinched down, its nearly impossible to tie the rope off with my half hitches when I have a handful of 20 feet of extra rope to deal with. My question: how to you elegantly manage a running end that is way longer then you really need? I thought doubling up the rope with a bight could work but the eyelet of the truck is to small to accomodate a doubled up rope. Thanks, LT |
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#2
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Larry,
It's not always possible to do this elegantly. Especially if you must thread the rope through small eyelets that don't allow you to double over the rope. On my trailer I use to cart rubbish to the tip I welded bars along the length of each side. This allows me to clove hitch to one side and throw the rope over the load. If I want to go back over the load again the space between the bars and the trailer are big enough to pass the coil of rope. Once I'm ready to tie my truckies knot I don't have to use the end of the rope at all. I pass a loop in the bight under the bar and bring this up over the standing part of the rope on the load. I grab the standing part and bring this through the loop, creating another loop that then goes into a round turn in the standing part further up. I tighten down and tie off with a slipped clove hitch. In twenty years of carting loads in the trailer not one load has ever come loose. Darren Australia "Larry Travis" wrote in message ... Hey Roo and all, I have a question regarding tying a load down in a truck. Let me ask it by illustrating the situation. I had to transport a gas grill in a small pickup and had my trusty rope on hand and was going to tie it down with a truckers hitch by securing one end of the rope to the eyelet on the side of the truck, running the rope over the grill, and then through the eyelet of the other side of the truck (by eyelet, I just mean the holes provided on either side of the truck bed meant for tying rope to). I would then tighten the rope by threading the free (running) end back through a loop in the standing part and cinching it to tighten. The problem was that this was a 50' rope and so it gets quite clumsy threading the running end through the eyelet of the truck and then the standing loop. Of course, once its cinched down, its nearly impossible to tie the rope off with my half hitches when I have a handful of 20 feet of extra rope to deal with. My question: how to you elegantly manage a running end that is way longer then you really need? I thought doubling up the rope with a bight could work but the eyelet of the truck is to small to accomodate a doubled up rope. Thanks, LT |
#3
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I think I remember answering a similar question before, but I can't
remember when or where it was asked. Anyway, I believe the solution I offered was to deal with the excess rope on the fixed side of the truck rather than on the tensioner end of the rope. Try to get the rope on the tensioner side to be about the length you want, and then if you don't have end access to what you're hitching to on the fixed side (like a hook), then use a Midspan Sheet Bend to close off a loop as shown in the second diagram on the bottom of this page: http://www.geocities.com/roo_two/midspan.html (If you do have a hook, you can use a Pile Hitch or a loop on the bight.) Then on the tensioner side, use a Versatckle or some variant of your choice to tighten things up: http://www.geocities.com/roo_two/Versatackle.html And then coil up or braid up the excess rope on the fixed side: http://www.geocities.com/roo_two/ropestorage.html http://www.geocities.com/roo_two/gasketcoil.html Cheers, roo |
#4
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Ahhh, the midspan sheet bend - I had forgotten that! I would have thought
there would be concern on whether a variant of a sheet bend as an anchor would be reliable when subjected to the extreme tension generated by a versatackcle. However, I defer to your wisdom and experience: if you have confidence in it then I am certain it will work for me as well. Thanks for the advice. LT "roo" wrote in message om... I think I remember answering a similar question before, but I can't remember when or where it was asked. Anyway, I believe the solution I offered was to deal with the excess rope on the fixed side of the truck rather than on the tensioner end of the rope. Try to get the rope on the tensioner side to be about the length you want, and then if you don't have end access to what you're hitching to on the fixed side (like a hook), then use a Midspan Sheet Bend to close off a loop as shown in the second diagram on the bottom of this page: http://www.geocities.com/roo_two/midspan.html (If you do have a hook, you can use a Pile Hitch or a loop on the bight.) Then on the tensioner side, use a Versatckle or some variant of your choice to tighten things up: http://www.geocities.com/roo_two/Versatackle.html And then coil up or braid up the excess rope on the fixed side: http://www.geocities.com/roo_two/ropestorage.html http://www.geocities.com/roo_two/gasketcoil.html Cheers, roo |
#5
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Facinating. I don't own the truck I use so I cannot weld bars, but your
method is quite impressive. Thanks for sharing. LT "Darren" wrote in message u... Larry, It's not always possible to do this elegantly. Especially if you must thread the rope through small eyelets that don't allow you to double over the rope. On my trailer I use to cart rubbish to the tip I welded bars along the length of each side. This allows me to clove hitch to one side and throw the rope over the load. If I want to go back over the load again the space between the bars and the trailer are big enough to pass the coil of rope. Once I'm ready to tie my truckies knot I don't have to use the end of the rope at all. I pass a loop in the bight under the bar and bring this up over the standing part of the rope on the load. I grab the standing part and bring this through the loop, creating another loop that then goes into a round turn in the standing part further up. I tighten down and tie off with a slipped clove hitch. In twenty years of carting loads in the trailer not one load has ever come loose. Darren Australia "Larry Travis" wrote in message ... Hey Roo and all, I have a question regarding tying a load down in a truck. Let me ask it by illustrating the situation. I had to transport a gas grill in a small pickup and had my trusty rope on hand and was going to tie it down with a truckers hitch by securing one end of the rope to the eyelet on the side of the truck, running the rope over the grill, and then through the eyelet of the other side of the truck (by eyelet, I just mean the holes provided on either side of the truck bed meant for tying rope to). I would then tighten the rope by threading the free (running) end back through a loop in the standing part and cinching it to tighten. The problem was that this was a 50' rope and so it gets quite clumsy threading the running end through the eyelet of the truck and then the standing loop. Of course, once its cinched down, its nearly impossible to tie the rope off with my half hitches when I have a handful of 20 feet of extra rope to deal with. My question: how to you elegantly manage a running end that is way longer then you really need? I thought doubling up the rope with a bight could work but the eyelet of the truck is to small to accomodate a doubled up rope. Thanks, LT |
#6
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I always encourage people to put knots to the test themselves if they
have the time and inclination. It gives people a feel for how knots behave, and they might discover something (good or bad) that they can pass along. Go ahead and subject a loop made from a Midspan Sheet Bend to a heavy load in various configurations. Put heavy loads on it with smaller rope so that you can see what happens under high strain. It should hold its form fine. Security in slippery rope under repeated cyclical jerking or wiggling would be a separate issue of interest that doesn't quite apply to what you're doing unless your line becomes a little slack as you travel down the highway. Cheers, roo "Larry Travis" wrote in message ... Ahhh, the midspan sheet bend - I had forgotten that! I would have thought there would be concern on whether a variant of a sheet bend as an anchor would be reliable when subjected to the extreme tension generated by a versatackcle. However, I defer to your wisdom and experience: if you have confidence in it then I am certain it will work for me as well. Thanks for the advice. |
#7
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"Larry Travis" wrote in message news:
Hey Roo and all, I have a question regarding tying a load down in a truck. ... My question: how to you elegantly manage a running end that is way longer then you really need? I thought doubling up the rope with a bight could work but the eyelet of the truck is to small to accom[m]odate a doubled up rope. You have two easy choices. Firstly (for both), run an end of the rope through one eyelet and over your load. Now, if you can guesstimate the amount of rope needed to make a tensioning ("Trucker's") hitch, tie off the long length with a slip-knot stopper; alternatively, you could tie some sort of loopknot with the long end using a bight (such as a Bwl). Then form your tensioning hitch, etc.. Otherwise, you can then tie off the end to the 2nd eyelet, and form the tensioning hitch on the long side: the loop for this can be formed in the mid-span, and then the long-end side can be pulled into this loop in a bight and tied off with a clove (2HHitches) simply. (Or, more elegantly, with a single half-hitch and a tuck of the bight-end up through the bight-end of the HH which then is snugged tight against it--a sort of doubled slipping (_ABOK_#1830, slipped). --dl* ==== |
#8
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Or just keep a carabiner in your glove compartmment. You can slap it in
where ever you want with a clove hitch, and anchor the line on one side with it too... thus making any legnth you want. The unused balance stays in the bed under the carabiner. |
#9
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"Larry Travis" wrote:
... My question: how do you elegantly manage a running end that is way longer then you really need? ... One way might be to get rid of the "way longer bit" of the running end by tying a Sheepshank Knot as the rope passes over the grill. The Sheepshank Knot's security could be enhanced with a couple of toggles or by tying the Sheepshank Knot with Marlingspike Hitches (ABOK #1155). Tying a loose Monkey Chain (ABOK #1144) as the rope passes over the grill might be another way to eat up the running end. Rather than tucking the end through the last loop to end the Monkey Chain, the end could first go through the eyelet and then through the last loop in the Monkey Chain to cinch up tight. (Does this make sense to anyone but me? :-)) Lastly, one might tie the Knot Shortening (ABOK #1146) as the rope passes over the grill to shorten the rope. Ashley's concern about its difficulty to untie in rope may not be such a problem with synthetic rope. (Then again it may be!) Larry, please let the group know the results of your experiments! Brian. |
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