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Blackening Lead Came



 
 
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  #1  
Old October 24th 03, 04:58 AM
Cactus Bob
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Default Blackening Lead Came

I have never quite figured out how to get that rich black color on lead
came. As the final step I have tried using a bristle brush, car buffing
wheel, etc. I never got that jet black look. Maybe I used the wrong kind
of brush or wimped out too soon; I don't know. Any suggestions, tips,
tried-and-true methods??

Oh, and I don't want to use some chemical. The old guys got that look
without spending money (maybe sweat equity, though!).

Anyone??

--Confused Glassman (aka "Cactus Bob")


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  #2  
Old October 24th 03, 01:43 PM
Javahut
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Posts: n/a
Default


"Cactus Bob" wrote in message
...
I have never quite figured out how to get that rich black color on lead
came. As the final step I have tried using a bristle brush, car buffing
wheel, etc. I never got that jet black look. Maybe I used the wrong kind
of brush or wimped out too soon; I don't know. Any suggestions, tips,
tried-and-true methods??

Oh, and I don't want to use some chemical. The old guys got that look
without spending money (maybe sweat equity, though!).

Anyone??

--Confused Glassman (aka "Cactus Bob")

What are you doing now?
Jet black look? OK, are you making your own cement, or using what?
Bristle brush ? What are the bristles made with?
I get a dark lead, jet black? sometimes I guess, never paid that much
attention, let's say , really ,really dark pewter. Maybe its qualifies as
black.

Make my own stuff, formula is well known,(some dislike it), final step is
with Natural Bristle brush( not Nylon bristles) and buff like crazy, for a
little while, the more you buff, the nicer it looks.



  #3  
Old October 24th 03, 03:51 PM
Cactus Bob
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I am "going natural," which means doing nothing. As I said, I tried in the
past with both nylon & bristle brushes. I recall reading that one studio
suggested a certain TYPE of bristle brush, but can no longer recall what
they said (it may have been an availability issue as they were from some
other country).

Anyway, we make our own putty (3 parts whiting, one part plaster of paris;
equal amounts of mineral spirits and boiled linseed oil, plus a cap of Japan
Drier; Mortar tint is sprinkled in to make the brew to a black color).

I guess what I am really asking is what makes the came go black? Is there
an interaction between the putty and came? Does the friction build up heat
that chemically changes the surface of the lead, yielding the black look?
What is going on??

The black I want is VERY black. I've seen it before but didn't realize then
that I should have asked the artist how he got that appearance.

FYI, the reason I am suddenly caring is that I have a commission for an
interior wall of art glass. Since there will be no direct sunlight coming
through and (in essence) making my lead lines look black, I think the design
would work better if the came had that look no matter the lighting.

--Cactus


What are you doing now?
Jet black look? OK, are you making your own cement, or using what?
Bristle brush ? What are the bristles made with?
I get a dark lead, jet black? sometimes I guess, never paid that much
attention, let's say , really ,really dark pewter. Maybe its qualifies as
black.

Make my own stuff, formula is well known,(some dislike it), final step is
with Natural Bristle brush( not Nylon bristles) and buff like crazy, for a
little while, the more you buff, the nicer it looks.





  #4  
Old October 24th 03, 04:15 PM
jk
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Posts: n/a
Default


"Cactus Bob" wrote in message
...
I have never quite figured out how to get that rich black color on lead
came. As the final step I have tried using a bristle brush, car buffing
wheel, etc. I never got that jet black look. Maybe I used the wrong kind
of brush or wimped out too soon; I don't know. Any suggestions, tips,
tried-and-true methods??

Oh, and I don't want to use some chemical. The old guys got that look
without spending money (maybe sweat equity, though!).

Anyone??

--Confused Glassman (aka "Cactus Bob")



I don't think you can get it jet black without paint or chemicals. If you
want to work it with natural bristles, whiting, and lots of time, you can
get it very dark gun metal gray. It reacts to the oxides in the natural
bristles. Same as it does with the oxides on your skin.

--
JK Sinrod NY
Sinrod Stained Glass
www.sinrodstudios.com
Coney Island Memories
www.sinrodstudios.com/coneymemories



  #5  
Old October 24th 03, 06:24 PM
Cactus Bob
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Default

The reason I said no chemical is two-fold: I think it would be messy and
just as time-consuming to use a chemical. The chemical would likely not be
even in its application (I am remembering my foil days when I would patina a
panel and getting it overall the same was a chore). Second, I do not think
the artist I saw at a trade show in New York in the early 1980's would have
had access to the variety of chemicals that now exist. Since I have
heard/read that the blackening can be had by buffing, I am hoping to gleam
some tidbit that will improve my efforts.

Any one else out there with an opinion?

-Cactus.

I don't think you can get it jet black without paint or chemicals. If

you
want to work it with natural bristles, whiting, and lots of time, you can
get it very dark gun metal gray. It reacts to the oxides in the natural
bristles. Same as it does with the oxides on your skin.

--
JK Sinrod NY
Sinrod Stained Glass
www.sinrodstudios.com
Coney Island Memories
www.sinrodstudios.com/coneymemories



  #6  
Old October 24th 03, 06:50 PM
Charlie Spitzer
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Posts: n/a
Default

in my distributor, i saw a round, natural bristle brush you can chuck up in
your drill. looked like the ones in my parent's old floor waxer.

"Cactus Bob" wrote in message
...
The reason I said no chemical is two-fold: I think it would be messy and
just as time-consuming to use a chemical. The chemical would likely not

be
even in its application (I am remembering my foil days when I would patina

a
panel and getting it overall the same was a chore). Second, I do not

think
the artist I saw at a trade show in New York in the early 1980's would

have
had access to the variety of chemicals that now exist. Since I have
heard/read that the blackening can be had by buffing, I am hoping to gleam
some tidbit that will improve my efforts.

Any one else out there with an opinion?

-Cactus.

I don't think you can get it jet black without paint or chemicals. If

you
want to work it with natural bristles, whiting, and lots of time, you

can
get it very dark gun metal gray. It reacts to the oxides in the natural
bristles. Same as it does with the oxides on your skin.

--
JK Sinrod NY
Sinrod Stained Glass
www.sinrodstudios.com
Coney Island Memories
www.sinrodstudios.com/coneymemories





  #7  
Old October 24th 03, 09:37 PM
Bart V
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Posts: n/a
Default

The black I want is VERY black
You might want to consider electroplating. It comes out
looking pretty cool, a nice shiny black (or whatever colours they have
available) finish that stays. If you do decide to give it a try,
remember that you cannot use zinc framing and you cannot putty it
until after your panel is plated as both these items will spoil the
chemicals and they either won't accept the job or they don't want you
coming back. I've had some done in black, dark brown, brass ("gold")
and nickle ("chome") and was real pleased with the way it looked.
Bart.


custom compensated banjo bridges,
tabs, stained glass: www.haruteq.com

**may your moments of need be met by moments of compassion**

  #8  
Old October 24th 03, 10:57 PM
Andy T.
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Posts: n/a
Default

It's called a Pzazz Brush. Your local shop should be able to get one
for you. You can also order replacement brushes for it. Works great!

Andy

"Charlie Spitzer" wrote in message ...
in my distributor, i saw a round, natural bristle brush you can chuck up in
your drill. looked like the ones in my parent's old floor waxer.

"Cactus Bob" wrote in message
...
The reason I said no chemical is two-fold: I think it would be messy and
just as time-consuming to use a chemical. The chemical would likely not

be
even in its application (I am remembering my foil days when I would patina

a
panel and getting it overall the same was a chore). Second, I do not

think
the artist I saw at a trade show in New York in the early 1980's would

have
had access to the variety of chemicals that now exist. Since I have
heard/read that the blackening can be had by buffing, I am hoping to gleam
some tidbit that will improve my efforts.

Any one else out there with an opinion?

-Cactus.

I don't think you can get it jet black without paint or chemicals. If

you
want to work it with natural bristles, whiting, and lots of time, you

can
get it very dark gun metal gray. It reacts to the oxides in the natural
bristles. Same as it does with the oxides on your skin.

--
JK Sinrod NY
Sinrod Stained Glass
www.sinrodstudios.com
Coney Island Memories
www.sinrodstudios.com/coneymemories



  #9  
Old October 31st 03, 01:27 AM
Mo
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Posts: n/a
Default

If you want it really black, add about a 1/4 cup of lamp black to your
putty/cement mix and then polish with a nice brush. Just my $0.02 worth.

I have never quite figured out how to get that rich black color on lead
came. As the final step I have tried using a bristle brush, car buffing
wheel, etc.



  #10  
Old November 1st 03, 11:45 PM
Mary R. Lynn
external usenet poster
 
Posts: n/a
Default

!/4 cup amp black mixed with what volume of putty mix?

ML

"Mo" wrote in message
news:kUiob.87426$EO3.81431@clgrps13...
If you want it really black, add about a 1/4 cup of lamp black to your
putty/cement mix and then polish with a nice brush. Just my $0.02 worth.

I have never quite figured out how to get that rich black color on lead
came. As the final step I have tried using a bristle brush, car buffing
wheel, etc.





 




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