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#1
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Tabletop finish
I've built several benches to do stained glass on. They aren't
anything fancy, just built out of 2x4s and plywood. The work surfaces are 3/4" finish plywood. Before they get soaked in flux, sweat, and beer, is there a good finish to use for wood surfaces used for stained glass work? I'm sorta thinking that it's best left unfinished, but if there is a good finish, now's the time. Thanks, Michael |
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#2
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Tabletop finish
I had some SherwinWilliams clear acrylic industrial finish that I put on
some worktables in my warmglass shop. It sure looks good and seems to be holding up well. It was left over from a couple of restain/refinish jobs we did, at at $105/gal I decided not to let it go to waste. "Michael" wrote in message oups.com... I've built several benches to do stained glass on. They aren't anything fancy, just built out of 2x4s and plywood. The work surfaces are 3/4" finish plywood. Before they get soaked in flux, sweat, and beer, is there a good finish to use for wood surfaces used for stained glass work? I'm sorta thinking that it's best left unfinished, but if there is a good finish, now's the time. Thanks, Michael |
#3
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Tabletop finish
you might lay a piece of sheetrock on top. it makes a great cutting surface
and soaks up all those liquids. It also is impervious to the soldering heat. m "Michael" wrote in message oups.com... I've built several benches to do stained glass on. They aren't anything fancy, just built out of 2x4s and plywood. The work surfaces are 3/4" finish plywood. Before they get soaked in flux, sweat, and beer, is there a good finish to use for wood surfaces used for stained glass work? I'm sorta thinking that it's best left unfinished, but if there is a good finish, now's the time. Thanks, Michael |
#4
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Tabletop finish
On Nov 12, 4:28 pm, Michael wrote:
I've built several benches to do stained glass on. They aren't anything fancy, just built out of 2x4s and plywood. The work surfaces are 3/4" finish plywood. Before they get soaked in flux, sweat, and beer, is there a good finish to use for wood surfaces used for stained glass work? I'm sorta thinking that it's best left unfinished, but if there is a good finish, now's the time. Thanks, Michael Get a bunch of particle board cut up into different sizes and use those as your work boards. It's so much easier to turn projects over and move them out of the way. I never build anything directly on my worktables. |
#5
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Tabletop finish
Moonraker wrote:
I had some SherwinWilliams clear acrylic industrial finish that I put on some worktables in my warmglass shop. It sure looks good and seems to be holding up well. It was left over from a couple of restain/ refinish jobs we did, at at $105/gal I decided not to let it go to waste. ************* At that kinda price I'd be wanting to do shots. I'll be back down your way here in a couple months, Moonraker. If your offer for a visit still stands, I will try and make it by. It's always refreshing and inspirational to see quality work and meet the people who do it. Michael |
#6
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Tabletop finish
Michele wrote:
you might lay a piece of sheetrock on top. it makes a great cutting surface and soaks up all those liquids. It also is impervious to the soldering heat. *************** Thank you for the suggestion, Michele. That is a great idea. The owner of Southern Glass down in Jacksonville recommended that, too, but I had associated it pretty much with assembling came panels, and didn't have it figured as a full-service top. I'm going to raise the floor about a half-inch with something easy to stand on. That means the drywall on top would maintain the relative bench height. Michael |
#7
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Tabletop finish
Chemo the Clown wrote:
Get a bunch of particle board cut up into different sizes and use those as your work boards. It's so much easier to turn projects over and move them out of the way. I never build anything directly on my worktables. ***************** I need to do that for sure. Right now I'm cutting and laying the pieces out on the pattern on top of a couple sheets of cardboard. I've had to move my two lamp-halves several times now, and every time I move them I shudder at the thought of the cardboard buckling or me dropping it. I've thought about numbering every piece against that occasion, but that's an extra step I'd rather avoid. Thank you for the suggestion, Chemo. Michael |
#8
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Tabletop finish
On Nov 13, 2:19 pm, Michael wrote:
Michele wrote: you might lay a piece of sheetrock on top. it makes a great cutting surface and soaks up all those liquids. It also is impervious to the soldering heat. *************** Thank you for the suggestion, Michele. That is a great idea. The owner of Southern Glass down in Jacksonville recommended that, too, but I had associated it pretty much with assembling came panels, and didn't have it figured as a full-service top. I'm going to raise the floor about a half-inch with something easy to stand on. That means the drywall on top would maintain the relative bench height. Michael Me, personally..I don't like drywall. Chalk gets all over the place and you must tape the edges to try and keep them from just crumbling apart. I never like the way the nails held in dryall either. Particle board takes lots of abuse. Most work boards I have are almost 15 years old. Plus, it's alot more sturdy to transport panels. BTW...Larry the Cable Guy just became a father. Baby girl. Said to look just like Phil Collins. Weighed in at 6 lbs 14 oz which is just two pounds under what Nichole Richie weighed last week. |
#9
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Tabletop finish
I'm standing by. Let me know a few days in advance.
"Michael" wrote in message ups.com... Moonraker wrote: I had some SherwinWilliams clear acrylic industrial finish that I put on some worktables in my warmglass shop. It sure looks good and seems to be holding up well. It was left over from a couple of restain/ refinish jobs we did, at at $105/gal I decided not to let it go to waste. ************* At that kinda price I'd be wanting to do shots. I'll be back down your way here in a couple months, Moonraker. If your offer for a visit still stands, I will try and make it by. It's always refreshing and inspirational to see quality work and meet the people who do it. Michael |
#10
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Tabletop finish
i don't use nails, just push pins on straight edges so they are perfect w/
drywall, and a full sheet is wrapped on the edges so no chalky aftertaste???? m "Chemo the Clown" wrote in message ups.com... On Nov 13, 2:19 pm, Michael wrote: Michele wrote: you might lay a piece of sheetrock on top. it makes a great cutting surface and soaks up all those liquids. It also is impervious to the soldering heat. *************** Thank you for the suggestion, Michele. That is a great idea. The owner of Southern Glass down in Jacksonville recommended that, too, but I had associated it pretty much with assembling came panels, and didn't have it figured as a full-service top. I'm going to raise the floor about a half-inch with something easy to stand on. That means the drywall on top would maintain the relative bench height. Michael Me, personally..I don't like drywall. Chalk gets all over the place and you must tape the edges to try and keep them from just crumbling apart. I never like the way the nails held in dryall either. Particle board takes lots of abuse. Most work boards I have are almost 15 years old. Plus, it's alot more sturdy to transport panels. BTW...Larry the Cable Guy just became a father. Baby girl. Said to look just like Phil Collins. Weighed in at 6 lbs 14 oz which is just two pounds under what Nichole Richie weighed last week. |
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