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hardanger fabric question
In article , Dianne Lewandowski
writes: Beth gave you some excellent tips. I loved the piece I did on 32-count linen. It wasn't difficult at that finer count, and ends up with a very lacy effect. Thanks, Dianne, for the additional tips. I do have a piece of 28 count white lying around (not sure I'm ready to try 32-count linen yet, as I am working on 18 count canvas, which I'm familiar with, right now and going blind) and I think I'll replace the Monaco from the Wentzler kit with that. I have a small Anchor/EGA kit that "teaches" Hardanger so I'll try that next, and then I'll look for the book Beth mentioned. I was shying away from Hardanger because it looked hard, but apart from the fringing, I was surprised that it was actually relatively easy. Haven't tried the woven bars yet, they look intimidating, but the Anchor kit comes with extra fabric to practice. India WIPS: Painted Bunting petit point needlepoint canvas Leisure Arts American Sampler cross stitch Margaret & Margaret Christmas Ornament |
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#2
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India . . . the woven bars are the easy part! And 32-count is not
difficult at all. Of course, that statement may be unfair if you have vision difficulties and/or are far-sighted. But if you don't, it's just a matter of learning to "see". Your eyes do adjust. But they never will if you don't allow them to practise. grin Just do it in short increments. I look at embroidery in a different way: one gives it a royal shot and if it's too hard at "this" count, I go lower until I'm comfortable. Sometimes I'll do the reverse: try something at a ridiculously low count, get the feel on a scrap, then shoot for the gold. That's why I have tons of scrap around That piece of Monoco on which I experimented last night has some drawn thread on it, pulled work, cross stitch, surface stitches, and now a corner of Hardanger. I've also learned through time that a technique I can't do today I often can do a year from now. Each new experience builds on your skill level, whether or not it's "drop dead gorgeous". First pieces in a genre often are less than ideal. HOWEVER, they are precious learning experiences. So, if a piece doesn't turn out well, or I'm having difficulty, I don't pitch it (or try to go on no matter what), I hang on to it to experiment another day. A fairly regular RCTNer emailed me the other day and asked about a type of embroidery on polar fleece. Out came my scrap and quite a few more stitches got played with. I had forgotten what was already there, so it was fun to see the first experiments. I love my "scraps", or doodle cloths as they are often referred. Dianne Mmeindia wrote: In article , Dianne Lewandowski writes: Beth gave you some excellent tips. I loved the piece I did on 32-count linen. It wasn't difficult at that finer count, and ends up with a very lacy effect. Thanks, Dianne, for the additional tips. I do have a piece of 28 count white lying around (not sure I'm ready to try 32-count linen yet, as I am working on 18 count canvas, which I'm familiar with, right now and going blind) and I think I'll replace the Monaco from the Wentzler kit with that. I have a small Anchor/EGA kit that "teaches" Hardanger so I'll try that next, and then I'll look for the book Beth mentioned. I was shying away from Hardanger because it looked hard, but apart from the fringing, I was surprised that it was actually relatively easy. Haven't tried the woven bars yet, they look intimidating, but the Anchor kit comes with extra fabric to practice. India WIPS: Painted Bunting petit point needlepoint canvas Leisure Arts American Sampler cross stitch Margaret & Margaret Christmas Ornament |
#3
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Woven bars look difficult (and impressive as all get-out to someone who
has never done them!) but are really easy to do. In fact I find them soothing. Keep an accurate count of how many times you weave when you do the first bar and make certain you use the same number on all the other bars that are of the same length. Use uniform tension and push each new woven stitch over against the previous with the tip of the needle to get a smooth bar. Mmeindia wrote: I have a small Anchor/EGA kit that "teaches" Hardanger so I'll try that next, and then I'll look for the book Beth mentioned. I was shying away from Hardanger because it looked hard, but apart from the fringing, I was surprised that it was actually relatively easy. Haven't tried the woven bars yet, they look intimidating, but the Anchor kit comes with extra fabric to practice. -- Brenda Lewis WIP: "Big Bird", Janlynn -- *DONE!* |
#4
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In article , Dianne Lewandowski
writes: India . . . the woven bars are the easy part! And 32-count is not difficult at all. Of course, that statement may be unfair if you have vision difficulties and/or are far-sighted. But if you don't, it's just a matter of learning to "see". Your eyes do adjust. But they never will if you don't allow them to practise. grin Just do it in short increments. Okay, I have promised myself that as a reward for finishing this canvas I'm working on I will let myself start the "learn Hardanger" kit (which does have woven bars). I am actually not far-sighted, my main problem is eye fatigue and poor lighting (I have two small children and only get to stitch late at night). But somehow I was very incorrectly translating 32-count into being the same as 18-count canvas. I see my math is pathetic and it should be like 16 count canvas, which I have dealt with successfully before. So If I find 32-count linen before I start the kit, I'll give that a shot too. Does Hardanger look nicer on finer-count fabric? By the way, Dianne, I just want to thank you personally for the constant challenging to try new things. I am mostly a lurker here, and until recently never did anything except painted-canvas needlepoint. I still have fun with that (except for the current canvas, see other post), but after taking your advice to heart, I am now doing cross stitch and loving it, doing blackwork and loving it, and I really enjoyed the little bit of Hardanger I tried and can't wait to try more. I am also avidly looking forward to trying Assisi and Lagarterra (sp?), and who knows what after that. And thanks to Beth, Liz and Ellice for the additional advice, which I am keeping for future reference. India WIPS: Painted Bunting petit point needlepoint canvas Leisure Arts American Sampler cross stitch Margaret & Margaret Santa ornament |
#5
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Mmeindia wrote:
I am actually not far-sighted, my main problem is eye fatigue and poor lighting (I have two small children and only get to stitch late at night). Oh, dear. Stitching around "two small children" can be exasperating. And stitching under poor light equally so. I got some new material yesterday for a sampler and late at night was the first time I could get my fingers into it. A disaster. I struggled for 15 minutes and then said nope. Tomorrow. Actually, I only stitch difficult items on bright or sunny days. Less difficult stitching on gloomy days under a bright kitchen light. You are going to drive yourself nuts trying to stitch without good lighting. Do your children nap? I suppose that is when you get your "chores" accomplished. Yes, Hardanger looks MUCH better on the 32-count. Of course, that is my *opinion*. Like Schwalm, which shouldn't be worked on anything less than 40-count - lots of beginners need to use coarser counts until they feel more comfortable. I just dove right in, and have done some at 65-ct. It's not hard. You just have to be able to "see" it. These are my "sunny day" projects. grin I wish we could help you with the lighting dilemma. What is Lagarterra? Dianne - who thanks you for your very kind words. |
#6
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In article , Dianne Lewandowski
writes: What is Lagarterra? I just learned about it from a featured "Masterclass" article in the most recent (I think) Mary Hickmott's New Stitches magazine. It comes from a Spanish village of the same name and is done on even weave linen with (fine) pearl cotton. It is done entirely in a combination of satin and Holbein stitches and seems to depict geometrics and/or stylized florals and scrolls. The project accompanying the article is done all in one color but there's an order form for a book and the cover of the book shows multicolored projects. I love doing blackwork, and I'm of the school that believes blackwork should be black, but this looks somewhat like blackwork in color. I love color too, and since colorful pieces are apparently "authentic," it looks like it's right up my alley. Relevant to the rest of the discussion about the thread count, Mary Hickmott shows the same motif stitched 5 different times, on five progressively finer fabrics with progressively finer thread. She recommends that the novice embroiderer start on the coarsest fabric, but I understand your "jump right in" theory. It really did look nicer on the finer counts, so it's worth a try and if you mess up you can always start over again on a lower count. India PS-- I think I spelled it wrong before; it should be Largartera. |
#7
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I agree about starting out on coarser grounds. However, sometimes it is
so coarse for the genre you are trying to accomplish, that the results are a turn off. So, for a "first project", keep it small, or use a coarse cloth as a "doodle". Stitching takes such an inordinant amount of time that (for me), I don't like wasting it. Besides which, you'll never train your eyes if you don't go into training. grin As an example: My first Hardanger piece came with a sampler on *extremely* coarse cloth. Yes, that made it easy to "see", but the result was awful. Half-way through, I quit and jumped to 32 based on recommendations posted here that I had seen in the past. There's not much difference between 28 and 32. AND, there are differences between 28 and 28 grin. Not all plain weave is woven equally. Dianne Mmeindia wrote: In article , Dianne Lewandowski writes: What is Lagarterra? I just learned about it from a featured "Masterclass" article in the most recent (I think) Mary Hickmott's New Stitches magazine. It comes from a Spanish village of the same name and is done on even weave linen with (fine) pearl cotton. It is done entirely in a combination of satin and Holbein stitches and seems to depict geometrics and/or stylized florals and scrolls. The project accompanying the article is done all in one color but there's an order form for a book and the cover of the book shows multicolored projects. I love doing blackwork, and I'm of the school that believes blackwork should be black, but this looks somewhat like blackwork in color. I love color too, and since colorful pieces are apparently "authentic," it looks like it's right up my alley. Relevant to the rest of the discussion about the thread count, Mary Hickmott shows the same motif stitched 5 different times, on five progressively finer fabrics with progressively finer thread. She recommends that the novice embroiderer start on the coarsest fabric, but I understand your "jump right in" theory. It really did look nicer on the finer counts, so it's worth a try and if you mess up you can always start over again on a lower count. India PS-- I think I spelled it wrong before; it should be Largartera. |
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