glazing and soldering question

Hi all,

I am almost finished with a 16" x 72" panel - one piece, and I was wondering
if I can solder and glaze one side, and then turn it over and solder and
glaze the other side.

Would that cause me some difficulties in the process?

I know I need to reinforce this panel with rebar. Are two 16" lg rebar at
one third from each end too much? would one only be good enough?

Thanks for your help.

Marc




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"M. Paradis" wrote in message
...
Hi all,

I am almost finished with a 16" x 72" panel - one piece, and I was
wondering
if I can solder and glaze one side, and then turn it over and solder and
glaze the other side.

Would that cause me some difficulties in the process?

I know I need to reinforce this panel with rebar. Are two 16" lg rebar at
one third from each end too much? would one only be good enough?

Thanks for your help.

Marc

I think you'd be way better off to solder the other side before you begin
the puttying operation. If the putty runs through any gaps and gets into an
unsoldered joint, you'll have a heck of a time getting it clean enough to
make the solder flow. A panel that size isn't hard to flip.

Rebar depends on the design, but 2 sounds right, Is this panel for
decoration, or a window/sidelight/or for a door? The reinforcing depends on
the usage, IMO.

I've soldered and puttied one side of panels many times. But, as the
Moonraker says, you have to be careful that putty doesn't clog up an
unsoldered joint or it can be messy trying to get the putty out so you
can solder the joint. If you've assembled your project on a work
board, then turning it over should be easy.

Andy



"M. Paradis" wrote in message ...
Hi all,

I am almost finished with a 16" x 72" panel - one piece, and I was wondering
if I can solder and glaze one side, and then turn it over and solder and
glaze the other side.

Would that cause me some difficulties in the process?

I know I need to reinforce this panel with rebar. Are two 16" lg rebar at
one third from each end too much? would one only be good enough?

Thanks for your help.

Marc




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"M. Paradis" wrote in message ...
Hi all,

I am almost finished with a 16" x 72" panel - one piece, and I was wondering
if I can solder and glaze one side, and then turn it over and solder and
glaze the other side.

Would that cause me some difficulties in the process?

I know I need to reinforce this panel with rebar. Are two 16" lg rebar at
one third from each end too much? would one only be good enough?

Thanks for your help.

Marc

If you're afraid of the flexing that will happen in the process of
turning the panel, consider "sandwiching" it between two pieces of
plywood. I build a 36" x 72" panel recently. I built it on top of a
piece of plywood that was NOT nailed down to my worktable. When the
time came to flip it, I put another piece of plywood on top of that,
fastened them together, then flipped the work. I turned the panel over
using this method a total of 3 times, the last turn was for re-bar.

Just don't do as I did - use plywood that is thick enough to really do
the job. I got my panel flipped without cracking it, but it was
touch-and-go.

At 16" wide, you should be able to shimmy a piece of plywood under the
panel once it's soldered on one side, then sandwich and flip.

- Bev

you can flip surprisingly large panels with only 1 piece plywood. also,
plywood flexes a lot and large pieces are heavy.

build the piece on a large enough sheet of ply. slide the piece to the edge
of the work table. overhang the edge some. using the corner of the table,
lift the back edge of the ply until near vertical. slide the piece backwards
so that the overhung edge is back on the table. continue sliding until the
down edge is far enough back on the table. holding the piece vertical, move
the ply from the back to the front. lay down flat.

"Bev Brandt" wrote in message
om...
"M. Paradis" wrote in message
...
Hi all,

I am almost finished with a 16" x 72" panel - one piece, and I was
wondering
if I can solder and glaze one side, and then turn it over and solder and
glaze the other side.

Would that cause me some difficulties in the process?

I know I need to reinforce this panel with rebar. Are two 16" lg rebar
at
one third from each end too much? would one only be good enough?

Thanks for your help.

Marc

If you're afraid of the flexing that will happen in the process of
turning the panel, consider "sandwiching" it between two pieces of
plywood. I build a 36" x 72" panel recently. I built it on top of a
piece of plywood that was NOT nailed down to my worktable. When the
time came to flip it, I put another piece of plywood on top of that,
fastened them together, then flipped the work. I turned the panel over
using this method a total of 3 times, the last turn was for re-bar.

Just don't do as I did - use plywood that is thick enough to really do
the job. I got my panel flipped without cracking it, but it was
touch-and-go.

At 16" wide, you should be able to shimmy a piece of plywood under the
panel once it's soldered on one side, then sandwich and flip.

- Bev

"Charlie Spitzer" wrote in message
...
you can flip surprisingly large panels with only 1 piece plywood. also,
plywood flexes a lot and large pieces are heavy.

build the piece on a large enough sheet of ply. slide the piece to the
edge
of the work table. overhang the edge some. using the corner of the table,
lift the back edge of the ply until near vertical. slide the piece
backwards
so that the overhung edge is back on the table. continue sliding until the
down edge is far enough back on the table. holding the piece vertical,
move
the ply from the back to the front. lay down flat.


Gosh, I must be living dangerously....today I pulled a sidelight out of a
residence, approx 12" by 80". I laid it on my portable workbench, cut the
zinc/solder/lead with a Dremel as necessary to remove the 3 broken pieces
and a single bevel, flipped it over 2 or 3 times in the process, replaced
the glass and bevel, resoldered both sides, puttied both sides, and carried
it back to the opening, resealed the wood/metal surfaces, and reinstalled
the trim stops. I must have flipped it over 5 or 6 times in all this. I
do this same process 4 to 6 times a week. I can't imagine going through the
gyrations you guys are talking about to flip a panel over. I'd never get
anything done. I frequently handle 4 ft sq bath windows in and out of a
residence and flip them back and forth to work on them, by myself.

Hi,

I think the difference is the poster using the
plywood was dealing with a panel that was soldered
on only on side or maybe only tacked on one side.
Just a guess.

Thanks
Roger Haar

******************************************
Moonraker wrote:

"Charlie Spitzer" wrote in message
...
you can flip surprisingly large panels with only 1 piece plywood. also,
plywood flexes a lot and large pieces are heavy.

build the piece on a large enough sheet of ply. slide the piece to the
edge
of the work table. overhang the edge some. using the corner of the table,
lift the back edge of the ply until near vertical. slide the piece
backwards
so that the overhung edge is back on the table. continue sliding until the
down edge is far enough back on the table. holding the piece vertical,
move
the ply from the back to the front. lay down flat.

Gosh, I must be living dangerously....today I pulled a sidelight out of a
residence, approx 12" by 80". I laid it on my portable workbench, cut the
zinc/solder/lead with a Dremel as necessary to remove the 3 broken pieces
and a single bevel, flipped it over 2 or 3 times in the process, replaced
the glass and bevel, resoldered both sides, puttied both sides, and carried
it back to the opening, resealed the wood/metal surfaces, and reinstalled
the trim stops. I must have flipped it over 5 or 6 times in all this. I
do this same process 4 to 6 times a week. I can't imagine going through the
gyrations you guys are talking about to flip a panel over. I'd never get
anything done. I frequently handle 4 ft sq bath windows in and out of a
residence and flip them back and forth to work on them, by myself.

"Moonraker" wrote in message ...

Gosh, I must be living dangerously....today I pulled a sidelight out of a
residence, approx 12" by 80".

Sure, a narrow panel like that can be handled by one person easily
enough. Mine was 3 times as wide and unfortunately, my work area is
pretty small. In order to turn it, we (my husband and I) had to take
it partly out the door.

For the record, if I had a panel the size of the OP's, I'd be able
flip it myself without any "sandwiching." Except maybe a good mesquite
turkey and cheddar on whole wheat.

I frequently handle 4 ft sq bath windows in and out of a
residence and flip them back and forth to work on them, by myself.

I think it really depends on the size of the work area. If you have
enough room to get all around the panel, one person can probably tilt
and flip good-sized windows. I definitely need more space. I'm not
sure even my 2-car garage is enough, but then you know the saying: You
can't be too rich, too thin, or have enough work area...or something.

- Bev

Just as a matter of record, I flip fairly large foiled and leaded one-side
soldered panels alone daily. Most are 20 by 80 or 22 x 80. The
"over-the-table-edge technique described earlier in this thread works well
if you're nervous about long, thin pieces, but usually I just get 'em from
horizontal to vertical in a single quick motion.

~s

"M. Paradis" wrote in message
...
Hi all,

I am almost finished with a 16" x 72" panel - one piece, and I was
wondering
if I can solder and glaze one side, and then turn it over and solder and
glaze the other side.

Would that cause me some difficulties in the process?

I know I need to reinforce this panel with rebar. Are two 16" lg rebar at
one third from each end too much? would one only be good enough?

Thanks for your help.

Marc




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"Steve Roberts" wrote in message
nk.net...
Just as a matter of record, I flip fairly large foiled and leaded one-side
soldered panels alone daily. Most are 20 by 80 or 22 x 80. The
"over-the-table-edge technique described earlier in this thread works well
if you're nervous about long, thin pieces, but usually I just get 'em from
horizontal to vertical in a single quick motion.


I've seen a couple of home-made tables that are made with the top hinged, so
that you can swing it up to an almost vertical position (about 75-80*) ,
with the panel resting on the "straightedge" of the table top. You then
grab the panel by it's top, slide it lengthwise off the table top while
holding the panel in a vertical position, do a spin, and replace the panel
on the table top with your unsoldered (or un-puttied) side up/(out), and
then fold the top back to a horizontal position.

I would think that an old draftsman's table could be converted fairly
easily.