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#1
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Conversion assistance?
Yesterday I purchased a pattern called Needlepoint Rainbow Sampler,
simply because I like the vibrant colors and the different stitches used. What I didn't notice at the time, though, was the variety of threads that the pattern calls for. Eeek! Major shopping and storage required if I don't convert! Question #1: Paternayan wool is one of the main threads used. I found a list of color conversions to DMC for all but one color - 958. None of the 4 different sites I went to had this color listed at all. It's marked as "orange" on the pattern, but it is overlaid with another color of DMC in a rice stitch so it's hard to tell from the color cover what shade of orange it might be. Is 958 a misprint, a discontinued color (this pattern is over 20 years old) or is there maybe just no similar conversion to any other brand? Question #2: The sections using Paternayan use 3 strands each. If I substitute to DMC floss, how much would I use? Question #3: There are a couple sections that use DMC #3 perle cotton. Can I substitute with a different gauge of perle cotton or with floss and simply use more strands? Thanks in advance for any suggestions you can share!! Jenn L. View My Webshots: http://community.webshots.com/user/jaliace Current projects: Chicago Skyline (The Needlecraftsman) Lady of the Flag (Mirabilia) |
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#2
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For questions #2 and #3...why don't you just play around on the edges of your
fabric, the area that will be hidden when it is framed? Try different number of threads to see what covers. Do remember that the variety of threads that are called for will give a texture you will not get with just DMC. Your project sounds interesting, have fun with it. Boo |
#3
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Hi, Jenn!
Keep in mind that I am brand new to needlework! As a neophyte, my stitch tension fluctuates, and my stitches vary greatly in both smoothness and twist, or the lack thereof... I just finished a piece using both persian wool and DMC floss. The wool was not Paternayan, but a now-discontinued one put out years ago by DMC. I was working on 10-count canvas, and using plain old basketweave/tent/continental. I got good coverage using two or three strands of the wool. (Dyes affect the wool, making it thicker or thinner. I don't know if this is also true for cotton.) In the floss, I used 12 strands, and I can see some spots where I could have used more. But the stitches may also have been affected by my inexperience. I would also think that better coverage could be had by using six strands and doing cross-stitch. JMIO (I is "inexperienced") Ruthie |
#4
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Ruthie ) writes:
Hi, Jenn! (snip) In the floss, I used 12 strands, and I can see some spots where I could have used more. But the stitches may also have been affected by my inexperience. I would also think that better coverage could be had by using six strands and doing cross-stitch. JMIO (I is "inexperienced") Ruthie Just a little note here. I think most people realise the importance of "stripping" threads from the 6 ply strands of embroidery floss. Otherwise you tend to run into trouble with twisting as the length of the thread shortens. However, there have been people in the past who forget this when they use all six strands together. They just cut the appropiate length, thread the needle and start stitching. If you are using all six strands of floss, it is still important to solemnly strip each strand out of the original floss, and recombine them before starting to stitch. Clear as mud? HTH. -- Jim Cripwell. The gods do not subtract from the allotted span of one's life, any time that is spent in stitching. Adapted from a sign on The Cobb, Lyme Regis, England. |
#5
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Jim is correct, except:
For surface work when you want a rope-like effect, as in Portuguese stem stitch, or coral knot. There you don't want to strip. Anytime you want a flat appearance and greater coverage of the thread, you must strip the strands apart before stitching. Without a laying tool of some kind, however, when using more than 3 strands, you'll be in trouble. A laying tool can be a thumbnail or needle, by the way. Dianne F.James Cripwell wrote: Ruthie ) writes: Hi, Jenn! (snip) In the floss, I used 12 strands, and I can see some spots where I could have used more. But the stitches may also have been affected by my inexperience. I would also think that better coverage could be had by using six strands and doing cross-stitch. JMIO (I is "inexperienced") Ruthie Just a little note here. I think most people realise the importance of "stripping" threads from the 6 ply strands of embroidery floss. Otherwise you tend to run into trouble with twisting as the length of the thread shortens. However, there have been people in the past who forget this when they use all six strands together. They just cut the appropiate length, thread the needle and start stitching. If you are using all six strands of floss, it is still important to solemnly strip each strand out of the original floss, and recombine them before starting to stitch. Clear as mud? HTH. -- Jim Cripwell. The gods do not subtract from the allotted span of one's life, any time that is spent in stitching. Adapted from a sign on The Cobb, Lyme Regis, England. |
#6
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Thanks, Jim and Dianne! I was going to use "stripping threads" as my subject, but figured that the first word might attract unwanted attention. I don't need any more spam about viagra! Do I need to actually separate each strand? I was doing something a bit unconventional. I happened to have a new toothbrush sitting there (don't ask me why) and I brushed the floss with it until there was no twist. As for laying tools - I think I'm going to have to have someone *show* me. The written instructions I have come across are not suited to my peculiar mind. (I am another of those who can read upside down and backwards - and I can't tell left from right.) But I have been doing something with my thumb. After I pull the yarn through, I sort of lift it and gently fold it over, either horizontally or vertically, and hold it in place while I make the next stitch. I can unroll any twist before I make the stitch. Is that "laying?" I have noticed two things about stripping wool. I did quite a bit of blending, for shading; in one area (where I first started doing the thumb thing) I wound up with diagonal stripes, because the strands were always in the same place. Before, I was *adding* twist, to make sure the two colors mixed well. The stripes aren't too obvious, thank goodness. I'll be entering this in a crafts competition. A small one - it'll probably be the only needlepoint there. The other thing is, I frequently started with two strands of wool with equal length, but wound up with one strand shorter. It happened with the floss, too, but not to the same extent. I suspect that it goes hand-in-hand with another problem - uneven tension on the strands, so that half of the stitch sticks up. I hope I made that clear. It happens more with the wool than the cotton - because cotton doesn't stretch. I've tried evening it out by pulling one strand a bit further through the needle, and even taking the needle off, and carefully smoothing them out before re-threading, but it only seems to work for about 3 stitches. Suggestions gratefully anticipated! Today I'm off to my LNS to see about getting a "learner" kit for cross stitch. I bought a nice "stamped" kit - too nice to learn on. Another of my amazing brain tricks - I convinced myself that I needed to make it for a wedding present, but the wedding's Saturday, and I don't think it's gonna happen, do you? But I have to go to the dentist first. Which will really cut into the ol' stash fund. :-( Bye for now, Ruthie Dianne wrote: Anytime you want a flat appearance and greater coverage of the thread, you must strip the strands apart before stitching. Without a laying tool of some kind, however, when using more than 3 strands, you'll be in trouble. A laying tool can be a thumbnail or needle, by the way. Jim said: If you are using all six strands of floss, it is still important to solemnly strip each strand out of the original floss, and recombine them before starting to stitch. |
#7
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Ruthie ) writes:
Thanks, Jim and Dianne! (snip) Do I need to actually separate each strand? I was doing something a bit unconventional. I happened to have a new toothbrush sitting there (don't ask me why) and I brushed the floss with it until there was no twist. (snip) Suggestions gratefully anticipated! Today I'm off to my LNS to see about getting a "learner" kit for cross stitch. I bought a nice "stamped" kit - too nice to learn on. Another of my amazing brain tricks - I convinced myself that I needed to make it for a wedding present, but the wedding's Saturday, and I don't think it's gonna happen, do you? But I have to go to the dentist first. Which will really cut into the ol' stash fund. :-( Bye for now, Ruthie I am not going to get involved any more. As we say many times, just about everything in needlework is personal preference. I have never stitched with 6 strands, 4 is the most I have used. But when I first learned to strip threads, the effect was so wonderful that I just think everyone should know about it. My reason for commenting was that in the past I have come across people who know how important it is to strip threads, but forget when it comes to using all 6 together. -- Jim Cripwell. The gods do not subtract from the allotted span of one's life, any time that is spent in stitching. Adapted from a sign on The Cobb, Lyme Regis, England. |
#8
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Ruthie ) writes: Do I need to actually separate each strand? Then F.James Cripwell wrote: My reason for commenting was that in the past I have come across people who know how important it is to strip threads, but forget when it comes to using all 6 together. Another side benefit from separating strands is that the floss seems to knot less once separated. I'd guess that my knot-creation went down probably by at least 85% when I learned about separating strands! I became an expert at untying them. Now I'm surprised when I get one! Ruthie also asked: snip The other thing is, I frequently started with two strands of wool with equal length, but wound up with one strand shorter. It happened with the floss, too, but not to the same extent. This is just a normal occurance. It happens from the threads lying on top of each other on the back side (where it's not laid/railroaded). Sometimes there's more variance, sometimes less. I've had it range from no difference in length at all to an inch difference by the end of the length. I usually don't pay any attention to my floss ends until I pull the needle through and only 1 thread comes with the needle! HTH! -- Joan See my first-ever design he http://www.heritageshoppe.com/joan.jpg "Stitch when you are young and poor, frame when you are old and rich." - Elizabeth's (rctn'r) sister's MIL (Barbara Marr) |
#9
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Joan Erickson wrote:
Another side benefit from separating strands is that the floss seems to knot less once separated. I'd guess that my knot-creation went down probably by at least 85% when I learned about separating strands! I became an expert at untying them. Now I'm surprised when I get one! Try telling that to me after making about 40 tiny bullions this afternoon with a single strand of silk floss! Argh!! 6-petaled flowers, and if you goof a bullion, it's start all over time. Frogging is not an option with finer threads. It would take as long. Dianne |
#10
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Dianne Lewandowski wrote:
Try telling that to me after making about 40 tiny bullions this afternoon with a single strand of silk floss! Argh!! 6-petaled flowers, and if you goof a bullion, it's start all over time. Frogging is not an option with finer threads. It would take as long. URG! I can only (and only *want*) to imagine. At least you got to stitch this afternoon! -- Joan (still at work) See my first-ever design he http://www.heritageshoppe.com/joan.jpg "Stitch when you are young and poor, frame when you are old and rich." - Elizabeth's (rctn'r) sister's MIL (Barbara Marr) |
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