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Fusing/slumping/casting with kiln sitter



 
 
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  #1  
Old December 1st 03, 10:08 AM
Gordon Watt
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Posts: n/a
Default Fusing/slumping/casting with kiln sitter

I've done a little bit of kilnwork before, but have never managed to get
access to a kiln regularly. A friend has offered me a loan of her ceramics
kiln (she mainly fires tiles) fitted with a kiln sitter.

I appreciate that this isn't the ideal method of learning, but at present
the possibility of regular kiln access is tempting. Is anyone using a kiln
sitter set up to fuse/slump/cast glass? I'm happy to experiment, and can be
in attendance while I fire, but a few initial pointers would be great? I'll
gladly post my results/progress for anyone in a similar position...

Gordon Watt
morningglass


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  #2  
Old December 1st 03, 07:17 PM
Michele Blank
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you need to wedge the sitter open, (not use it), get a pyrometer and a plug
with a hole the size of the pyrometer to be able to have it in the kiln.
This may run a hundred bucks or so. After you get completely addicted you
will need a controller to plug the kiln into which will go 300 $$ or so.This
will eliminate the need for human tampering with on/off switches. m


"Gordon Watt" wrote in message
...
I've done a little bit of kilnwork before, but have never managed to get
access to a kiln regularly. A friend has offered me a loan of her ceramics
kiln (she mainly fires tiles) fitted with a kiln sitter.

I appreciate that this isn't the ideal method of learning, but at present
the possibility of regular kiln access is tempting. Is anyone using a kiln
sitter set up to fuse/slump/cast glass? I'm happy to experiment, and can

be
in attendance while I fire, but a few initial pointers would be great?

I'll
gladly post my results/progress for anyone in a similar position...

Gordon Watt
morningglass




  #3  
Old December 2nd 03, 10:31 AM
Lauri Levanto
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Default

Kiln sitters are not used here (Finland). As I understand it,
a kiln sitter is an emergency switch that prevents the kiln from
melting down. As such it is useful. You can set it to
trigger somewhere around 900 - 1000 C (1700-1850 F).

It may be used also to set a top temperature, where the kiln turns off.
I doubt it is accurate enough for glass work.

As long as you work under 6mm (½") thickness, the natural cooling
of a ceramic kiln works well. When your ambition goes
to 1-2" thikness you need a three men crew to monitor
the annealing days and nights.

-lauri

Michele Blank wrote:

you need to wedge the sitter open, (not use it), get a pyrometer and a plug
with a hole the size of the pyrometer to be able to have it in the kiln.
This may run a hundred bucks or so. After you get completely addicted you
will need a controller to plug the kiln into which will go 300 $$ or so.This
will eliminate the need for human tampering with on/off switches. m

"Gordon Watt" wrote in message
...
I've done a little bit of kilnwork before, but have never managed to get
access to a kiln regularly. A friend has offered me a loan of her ceramics
kiln (she mainly fires tiles) fitted with a kiln sitter.

I appreciate that this isn't the ideal method of learning, but at present
the possibility of regular kiln access is tempting. Is anyone using a kiln
sitter set up to fuse/slump/cast glass? I'm happy to experiment, and can

be
in attendance while I fire, but a few initial pointers would be great?

I'll
gladly post my results/progress for anyone in a similar position...

Gordon Watt
morningglass



  #4  
Old December 3rd 03, 03:12 AM
Mike Firth
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Posts: n/a
Default

No, a kiln sitter is a device that uses an accurately made Orton Cone to
control a pottery kiln. The cone (as in Cone 6 or Cone 10) reacts to heat
in the way the pottery does, so long slow heat or quicker fast rising heat
produce the desired results. With pottery, it is safe to run the temp up
and when the cone trips, the kiln can shut off and coast back down.
You are correct that it is not proper for glass. It is not literally
measuring temp, but heat gain. And letting the kiln crash may produce okay
results with thin glass, but with thicker glass, annealing will not occur
and the glass may shatter in the kiln or later.

--
Mike Firth
Hot Glass Bits Furnace Working Website
http://users.ticnet.com/mikefirth/hotbit45.htm Latest notes
http://users.ticnet.com/mikefirth/NTBowl.htm Once again, Empty Bowls
will collect for the North Texas food banks - donate.
"Lauri Levanto" wrote in message
...
Kiln sitters are not used here (Finland). As I understand it,
a kiln sitter is an emergency switch that prevents the kiln from
melting down. As such it is useful. You can set it to
trigger somewhere around 900 - 1000 C (1700-1850 F).

It may be used also to set a top temperature, where the kiln turns off.
I doubt it is accurate enough for glass work.

As long as you work under 6mm (½") thickness, the natural cooling
of a ceramic kiln works well. When your ambition goes
to 1-2" thikness you need a three men crew to monitor
the annealing days and nights.

-lauri

Michele Blank wrote:

you need to wedge the sitter open, (not use it), get a pyrometer and a

plug
with a hole the size of the pyrometer to be able to have it in the kiln.
This may run a hundred bucks or so. After you get completely addicted

you
will need a controller to plug the kiln into which will go 300 $$ or

so.This
will eliminate the need for human tampering with on/off switches. m

"Gordon Watt" wrote in message
...
I've done a little bit of kilnwork before, but have never managed to

get
access to a kiln regularly. A friend has offered me a loan of her

ceramics
kiln (she mainly fires tiles) fitted with a kiln sitter.

I appreciate that this isn't the ideal method of learning, but at

present
the possibility of regular kiln access is tempting. Is anyone using a

kiln
sitter set up to fuse/slump/cast glass? I'm happy to experiment, and

can
be
in attendance while I fire, but a few initial pointers would be great?

I'll
gladly post my results/progress for anyone in a similar position...

Gordon Watt
morningglass





  #5  
Old December 6th 03, 11:14 AM
Greg Kraushaar
external usenet poster
 
Posts: n/a
Default

I HAVE used a kiln sitter successfully for both Slumping and fusing.
Why? I have one and can't afford better.
It is true that they only control the Max temp, but they are very
accurate. Usually within a degree or so. (Just because a digital
readout displays an exact number doesn't mean its an accurate one.
When I kids were younger, I took to deliberately setting the digital
clocks wrong just to teach them this.)
you do need to pay particular attention to placing the cone to achieve
this accuracy. As for controlling ramping, Trial and error taught me
the switch settings to use and the time to run them. I use a kitchen
tiem to remind me when next to check things, and a K probe connected
to a DVM via an adapter to check actual temps in the Kiln
To control the soak, I bypass the sitter after its tripped and watch
it like a hawk. The final ramp down I have to rely on the natural
characters of the kiln, assisted by extra insulation.

On Tue, 02 Dec 2003 11:31:33 +0200, Lauri Levanto
wrote:

Kiln sitters are not used here (Finland). As I understand it,
a kiln sitter is an emergency switch that prevents the kiln from
melting down. As such it is useful. You can set it to
trigger somewhere around 900 - 1000 C (1700-1850 F).

It may be used also to set a top temperature, where the kiln turns off.
I doubt it is accurate enough for glass work.

As long as you work under 6mm (½") thickness, the natural cooling
of a ceramic kiln works well. When your ambition goes
to 1-2" thikness you need a three men crew to monitor
the annealing days and nights.

-lauri

Michele Blank wrote:

you need to wedge the sitter open, (not use it), get a pyrometer and a plug
with a hole the size of the pyrometer to be able to have it in the kiln.
This may run a hundred bucks or so. After you get completely addicted you
will need a controller to plug the kiln into which will go 300 $$ or so.This
will eliminate the need for human tampering with on/off switches. m

"Gordon Watt" wrote in message
...
I've done a little bit of kilnwork before, but have never managed to get
access to a kiln regularly. A friend has offered me a loan of her ceramics
kiln (she mainly fires tiles) fitted with a kiln sitter.

I appreciate that this isn't the ideal method of learning, but at present
the possibility of regular kiln access is tempting. Is anyone using a kiln
sitter set up to fuse/slump/cast glass? I'm happy to experiment, and can

be
in attendance while I fire, but a few initial pointers would be great?

I'll
gladly post my results/progress for anyone in a similar position...

Gordon Watt
morningglass



  #6  
Old December 9th 03, 08:00 PM
external usenet poster
 
Posts: n/a
Default

On Sat, 06 Dec 2003 21:14:41 +1100, Greg Kraushaar
wrote:

I HAVE used a kiln sitter successfully for both Slumping and fusing.
Why? I have one and can't afford better.
It is true that they only control the Max temp, but they are very
accurate. Usually within a degree or so. (



And hope that the cone doesn't stick and over fire the kiln.
Just completed a glass cast 11KG which took 13 1/2 days kiln time.

I use a Perfect Fire III and I love it

Cheers
Jo
  #8  
Old December 10th 03, 10:50 AM
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Default

On Tue, 09 Dec 2003 19:19:02 -0700, nJb wrote:

And hope that the cone doesn't stick and over fire the kiln.
Just completed a glass cast 11KG which took 13 1/2 days kiln time.

I use a Perfect Fire III and I love it

Cheers
Jo



13-1/2 days. That's getting serious. The 200" mirror for the scope on
Mt Polomar took 11 months to cool. Josh Simpson's 12" diameter
"worlds" take about 4 months.

What were the dimensions of your casting?



Jack


http://photos.yahoo.com/bc/xmissionbobo/


Hi Jack

The diameter is just over 10 inch and 8 inch high , the weight is 11
KG or 24 Lbs , the wall is just over 1 inch thick.
I could mail you a pic if you like

Cheers
Jo
 




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