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#11
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Unfortunately, that information will be for scrapers designed for flat
work. You can dispense with the burr turning and allow the work and your attack angle to do the job in most cases. Draw with a bit of shear for the best finish. You lost me on that. Can you explain further? |
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#12
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On Tue, 11 Jan 2005 13:36:16 -0600, "Walker"
wrote: Unfortunately, that information will be for scrapers designed for flat work. You can dispense with the burr turning and allow the work and your attack angle to do the job in most cases. Draw with a bit of shear for the best finish. You lost me on that. Can you explain further? Metal scrapers have their working edge filed flat and then have a hook turned by drawing a burnisher across the flat edge. That leaves a sharp ridge which is perceptible when you run your finger across the burnisher (gently!) and the hook is what actually does the work. A properly burred scraper removes paper-thin shavings and is a joy to use. An improperly sharpened one produces fine wood dust, lots of chatter and is a pain in the neck. I've always put a burr on my metal scrapers for flat or curved work. However use whatever gives you good results. Glass is different, btw. You use hold the piece at the right angle and it scrapes. Sharper but it dulls much quicker. Flint is the same way if you want to get real primitive. --RC --RC "Sometimes history doesn't repeat itself. It just yells 'can't you remember anything I've told you?' and lets fly with a club. -- John W. Cambell Jr. |
#13
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"Walker" wrote in message ... Unfortunately, that information will be for scrapers designed for flat work. You can dispense with the burr turning and allow the work and your attack angle to do the job in most cases. Draw with a bit of shear for the best finish. You lost me on that. Can you explain further? Any edge can scrape, it's a matter of how it's presented to the wood. Traditional cabinet scrapers have burrs turned on them which bite at a particular angle of attack. Works great for flat surfaces and in tools with fixed angles of attack, but can be inconvenient or unobtainable on irregular surfaces. If you've got your knife handy, turn it up to about 80 degrees to the surface and scrape whatever you're working on to demonstrate. The smaller scrapers, and ones with curves work just fine with a sharpened edge, and your knuckles will thank you for not cutting them as your burnisher slips off the edge while turning a burr. As to shear, if you cut wood at all, you know the advantage. The angle the spoon scraper makes with the handle, and the sharpening bevel combine for the 80 degrees with a neutral wrist. I draw and skew from each end of the bowl to the bottom. The skew keeps the end grain portion smooth. |
#14
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Although I haven't bought any, a search on the internet reveals a fairly
large quantity of books on the topic of spoon carving. I prefer to learn on my own from my own mistakes. I have enjoyed asking questions of the experienced carvers in this forum too as I have always received polite and sincere answers. So far, I've used the patterns of spoons in our silverware drawer and other kitchen utensils. I prefer to make items that may be used as well as being unique for the material (wood) from which they are made. I haven't made to many yet but am getting a little quicker with each one I make. Carving a smooth, functional bowel has been my hang-up so far. I think my biggest hurdle is getting used to carving hardwoods as I have spent years carving pine. Thanks to all who have commented and continue to comment. I value all of your advice! Dan "BobLondonKy" wrote in message 2... wrote in : I use a hooked knife and I have several. The scandanavian pattern with the 3/4 circle blade is the cheapest ( $20) and works just fine. -- John W. Cambell Jr. Okay. I'm new to carving. A Real green horn. So where could I find the item that you mention above? I thought that carving spoons would be easy. Found a book on carving celtic spoons, and love spoons. Seems to be the kind that you would just look at, and not use. I would like mine to be useful. Is there a book on carving spoons to be used? Anywhere on the internet that I might find some information, and maybe a pattern or two? Thank you for your time! Bob, London, KY |
#15
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Can you refer me to any online images of the scrapers you refer to?
Dan "George" george@least wrote in message ... "Walker" wrote in message ... Unfortunately, that information will be for scrapers designed for flat work. You can dispense with the burr turning and allow the work and your attack angle to do the job in most cases. Draw with a bit of shear for the best finish. You lost me on that. Can you explain further? Any edge can scrape, it's a matter of how it's presented to the wood. Traditional cabinet scrapers have burrs turned on them which bite at a particular angle of attack. Works great for flat surfaces and in tools with fixed angles of attack, but can be inconvenient or unobtainable on irregular surfaces. If you've got your knife handy, turn it up to about 80 degrees to the surface and scrape whatever you're working on to demonstrate. The smaller scrapers, and ones with curves work just fine with a sharpened edge, and your knuckles will thank you for not cutting them as your burnisher slips off the edge while turning a burr. As to shear, if you cut wood at all, you know the advantage. The angle the spoon scraper makes with the handle, and the sharpening bevel combine for the 80 degrees with a neutral wrist. I draw and skew from each end of the bowl to the bottom. The skew keeps the end grain portion smooth. |
#16
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http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.a...at=1,310,41069
"Dan Farrow" wrote in message ... Can you refer me to any online images of the scrapers you refer to? Dan |
#17
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Found a book on carving celtic spoons, and love spoons. Seems to be the
kind that you would just look at, and not use. I would like mine to be useful. Is there a book on carving spoons to be used? Found this at Amazon: http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/tg...glance&s=books |
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