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#1
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Saga American Sampler/Advice on Frame
Thank you so much for all the wonderful, wonderful advise so far!!! Truly
could not have "begun to begin" as it were without it. It has come to my attention that I need a good, good frame. I have been using hoops, and that is hell on Linen. My Husband made a little frame, but not good enough (bad tension). So, I need advise on a very good scroll frame and stand. Been wanting/needing one AND if I am going to invest all this time and everyones effort, might as well "do it right"! Some questions to start: Should I get the scroll frame that have slots? Or the fabric tabs one sews the piece to? How does one control the tension on the sides? Clips with elastic type "thingys"? Any suggestions for brand names? Thank you so very much!!!!! Paula C. Hunter |
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#2
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Paula,
I have K's Creation Perfect Tension Bars for my scroll rods. These are nice as you can release the Tension on your work easily. I have one set of original wood side bars and 2 sets of the Elite. I love them and no affiliation. You can order them directly from K's if you need to. http://www.kscreations.com/acc_perfecttension.htm HTH Bobbie V. |
#3
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I have one frame with slotted dowels (which I hate!), a full set with different
scroll rods and side bars with the fabric that you have to baste your material on (better than the slots, but I don't like sewing my material onto the basting tapes) and a full set of handiclamp scroll frames (which I adore!) The handiclamps use plastic peices that snap over the dowels to hold your fabric. The first time I put fabric on them, I had to adust it a few times till I got my tension the way I liked it, but I haven't had any problems at all since then.. I've asked my husband for a second set for my bday, since I have so many WIPs on the go.. LOL (But it is pretty easy to switch on and off the rods with the handiclamps.) Paula H Should I get the scroll frame that have slots? Or the fabric tabs one sews the piece to? How does one control the tension on the sides? Clips with elastic type "thingys"? Any suggestions for brand names? Thank you so very much!!!!! Paula C. Hunter |
#4
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It has come to my attention that I need a good, good frame. I have been
using hoops, and that is hell on Linen. What are hoops doing to your linen? I have used hoops on linen all my life, and have never had a problem. In fact, I have a Grip-it (I think that's the name) floor stand which holds my hoops so I can work on them two handed. Just curious. Olwyn Mary in New Orleans. |
#5
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Paula, my husband made a very good scroll frame for me and he is so bad with
tools I don't let him hang a picture in the house... after he missed the nail and we had a hole in the wall. You will need 4 stove bolts whick are screws that have a pointed, a flat center and a flat end, and 4 wing nuts to fit the flat end. You will also need dowels the size of roller bars in a frame, two pieces of wood 1 and 1/2 inch by 1/2 inch and the length you want the side bars. The last thing you will need is very heavy woven tape to staple on the roller bars. To make the frame you will need a saw, pliers, a drill and a heavy duty stapler would be nice. To make it, cut the dowels the width you want the frame. Cut the side pieces the correct length. Drill a small starter hole in each of the four ends and insert and screw in the pointed end of the stove bolt. Cut the side pieces or stretcher bars into the length you want. Drill holes just a bit bigger than the stove bolts at the top and bottom of each piece, and another hole near the center to attach it to a frame. Cut the correct lengths of the tape and staple or use carpet tacks and nail it on to the dowell. If you have a vise use it to hold the dowell during this process, but if you don't a second pair of hands would be useful. Your roller frame is now made. Insert the screws on the roller bars into the holes on the stretcher bars and use the wing nuts to hold the roller bars in the side pieces. If this joint slips, you can use some rubber washers. This really does not take much time, makes excellent roller bar frames and costs a lot less than the bought ones. Then you can put all of your mad money in a floor frame, or lap frame. As to controlling the tension on the sides. Nordic Needle wwwnordicneedle.com has excellend "stitch clips", for $15.95, item 6934. If I am working something that will be long enough to wrap the fabric around the roller bars several times, I fine the unstitched edges get floppy, so I roll a paper towel, just the width of the unstitched part along with the fabric . The thickness of the towel is about that of stitching and the tension is fine. As to a frame, everyone has a different idea. I like both a lap frame and a floor frame. You will just have to look at them and decide for yourself, or perhaps a LNS has a scroll frame holder you could try at their store. Good luck, Boo |
#6
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On 1/11/04 8:24 AM,"Queen City Cross Stitcher"
posted: Paula, I have K's Creation Perfect Tension Bars for my scroll rods. These are nice as you can release the Tension on your work easily. I have one set of original wood side bars and 2 sets of the Elite. I love them and no affiliation. You can order them directly from K's if you need to. http://www.kscreations.com/acc_perfecttension.htm Me, too - have the Elite Perfect tension bars. You can get a set, and multiple side bars if you like - switching the tensioning gizmos - they are like end-caps on one end of the side bars. I have a 10" set and a 12" set. It's very nice because it's so quick to release the tension in the fabric a bit, and then tighten back up when you're working on your piece. I use the scroll set mostly for large XS, CT pieces that would be awkward in Q-snaps, and I don't want to do in hand. Or, for long canvas pieces (like stockings, big bell-pulls). For most of my XS, CT work on linen I use the Q-snaps. So, if you want to use scroll bars, I second the recommendation for the K's Perfect Tension bars. Generally, if I'm using the scroll set, I use it in a frame - either my Baby Z lap frame, or my Stowaway Floor Frame - depending on the dowel width. I'm sure your sampler will come out beautifully. Check out what you can on the various frames, stands. It does make stitching in some cases go faster, or more easily. Happy stitchin' - Ellice - who doesn't work for K's ;^) |
#7
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Wrinkling it badly, and it is hard to press out. (Maybe I am doing
something wrong, but impossible to iron out is more like it) Paula "Olwynmary" wrote in message ... It has come to my attention that I need a good, good frame. I have been using hoops, and that is hell on Linen. What are hoops doing to your linen? I have used hoops on linen all my life, and have never had a problem. In fact, I have a Grip-it (I think that's the name) floor stand which holds my hoops so I can work on them two handed. Just curious. Olwyn Mary in New Orleans. |
#8
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On Mon, 12 Jan 2004 07:05:16 -0600, "Paula C. Hunter"
wrote: Wrinkling it badly, and it is hard to press out. (Maybe I am doing something wrong, but impossible to iron out is more like it) Paula Wash the sizing out of your fabric before you start stitching. Then wash your project when you're done. Press it while it's still wet, and keep in mind that linen takes a *hot* iron. Darla Sacred cows make great hamburgers. |
#9
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Linen must be quite damp to press. So, wash your finished piece and
iron while still quite damp. Not dripping wet, but not almost dry. After washing and thoroughly rinsing, roll up the piece in a thick towel, squeeze out as much moisture as possible. Let hang 5 minutes or so, then iron with the linen setting - face down on a well-padded surface such as a towel folded once or twice. It takes a very hot iron to press linen. Some modern irons don't get hot enough and it will take longer. Quit ironing when steam is still rising. You want *some* moisture left, you don't want to iron it bone dry. Let it sit. Ironing linen, especially embroidered linen, takes time. If you're trying to press while you're still working on it, that is risky. Ironing can make oils and stains permanent. If it's wrinkled and you need to work in a wrinkled space, putting it in a hoop or frame should get those wrinkles out. You might see a "line", but that will come out in the final process. If you are leaving the hoop on in one space for months at a time, try not to do that. It can skew some finer cloths. But for the normal linen we use for counted work, you shouldn't be having this problem. I suspect you see the hoop marks and it is scaring you. Never mind them. They come out in the wash. grin Dianne Paula C. Hunter wrote: Wrinkling it badly, and it is hard to press out. (Maybe I am doing something wrong, but impossible to iron out is more like it) Paula "Olwynmary" wrote in message ... It has come to my attention that I need a good, good frame. I have been using hoops, and that is hell on Linen. What are hoops doing to your linen? I have used hoops on linen all my life, and have never had a problem. In fact, I have a Grip-it (I think that's the name) floor stand which holds my hoops so I can work on them two handed. Just curious. Olwyn Mary in New Orleans. |
#10
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Wash the sizing out of your fabric before you start stitching.
Aaaaarrrgh! I was always taught you never, never, NEVER wash linen before you start embroidering on it!!! Reason? The linen will shrink slightly the first time you wash it, at which time the weave will "pull in" enough so that your starting and ending stitches will be caught even more firmly, and thus are unlikely ever to come loose. Sometimes, pieces I have been working on for a long time look like a crumpled rag by the time I finish, but I rest serene in the knowledge that once it is finished and laundered, it will look beautiful. Just don't worry about the wrinkles until every last stitch has been put in, then wash and iron it the way Dianne says, and it will be gorgeous. Olwyn Mary in New Orleans. |
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