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Soldering palladium
I seem to recall reading that its not a good idea to solder palladium
with an oxy/hydrogen flame, but I can't find the article anywhere. I use oxy/hydrogen for platinum and would like to use it for Pd too. Does anyone have actual experience with this please? -- Regards, Gary Wooding (To reply by email, change feet to foot in my address) |
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#2
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Soldering palladium
lemel_man schrieb:
I seem to recall reading that its not a good idea to solder palladium with an oxy/hydrogen flame, but I can't find the article anywhere. I use oxy/hydrogen for platinum and would like to use it for Pd too. Does anyone have actual experience with this please? I donīt know why? It works! With best regards, Heinrich Butschal -- Jewels and diamaonds with certificates http://www.butschal.com Estate Jewelry http://www.schmuck-boerse.com Famous antique Jewelry http://www.royal-magazin.de Goldsmith signet rings http://www.meister-atelier.de |
#3
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Soldering palladium
we've used it without problems although be generous with the flux.
http://www.silverstall.com/soldering...jewellery.html |
#4
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Soldering palladium
On Mon, 30 Apr 2007 08:17:02 -0700, in rec.crafts.jewelry lemel_man
wrote: I seem to recall reading that its not a good idea to solder palladium with an oxy/hydrogen flame, but I can't find the article anywhere. I use oxy/hydrogen for platinum and would like to use it for Pd too. Does anyone have actual experience with this please? Molten palladium absorbs hydrogen, so oxy/hydrogen can give you brittle or porous metal if you use it to actually melt palladium, as in casting. But for soldering, it shouldn't be a problem. Use flux in any case, which will protect against oxidation, and if using palladium based solders like the lower grades of traditional platinum solders, should protect the solders too from hydrogen absorbtion. (I use 1000 platinum solder for palladium, and it seems to work fine). One other comment, if soldering palladium to gold or silver using gold solders, be aware that the joints can sometimes be fairly brittle since the lower melting gold or silver solders don't penetrate the palladium much, and you especially have to be careful to have the palladium clean of oxides and well fluxed. I've seen palladium heads soldered to gold rings crack right off very easily, and on examination, it appeared the jeweler had allowed the palladium to at least slightly oxidize during soldering. The solder appeared to flow anyway, but didn't bond much. I'm not sure of that, but that's what it looked like had happened at any rate. I generally use the more active paste fluxes, like Handy flux (contains fluorides) when soldering palladium to gold or silver, to be sure it remains oxide free, and use Batterns or the like (withstands higher temps) when soldering palladium with pt1000 solders. Seems to work. Peter |
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Soldering palladium
Peter W.. Rowe, wrote:
... snip Use flux in any case, which will protect against oxidation, and if using palladium based solders like the lower grades of traditional platinum solders, should protect the solders too from hydrogen absorbtion. (I use 1000 platinum solder for palladium, and it seems to work fine). Interesting. This is my first attempt at using Pd and all the tutorials on Ganoksin state "don't use flux", so thanks for your warning. So far I've successfully tack-welded bits together with my PUK-2 (works fine) but have been nervous of actually soldering the stuff. I feel a little more confident now. -- Regards, Gary Wooding (To reply by email, change feet to foot in my address) |
#6
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Soldering palladium
On Sun, 06 May 2007 09:04:12 -0700, in rec.crafts.jewelry lemel_man
wrote: Peter W.. Rowe, wrote: ... snip Use flux in any case, which will protect against oxidation, and if using palladium based solders like the lower grades of traditional platinum solders, should protect the solders too from hydrogen absorbtion. (I use 1000 platinum solder for palladium, and it seems to work fine). Interesting. This is my first attempt at using Pd and all the tutorials on Ganoksin state "don't use flux", so thanks for your warning. So far I've successfully tack-welded bits together with my PUK-2 (works fine) but have been nervous of actually soldering the stuff. I feel a little more confident now. Well, I might be wrong on that too. I'm mostly a platinum and gold worker. My experience with soldering palladium is mostly with soldering it to gold or silver, as in using palladium settings with gold jewelry. In those cases, flux is critical, because if the palladium oxidizes, the solder can still seem to flow, but the joint will not be good. Soldering palladium to itself, using the lower temperature grades of traditional platinum solder (which are made of palladium and silver, or pd and gold, usually, not platinum itself), puts the process in a higher temperature range, and is then using a solder more closely matched to the palladium When soldering platinum itself, flux is not a great idea, because many of them contain one or another silicate containing chemical, and at high temperatures, in a reducing atmosphere, sometimes silicates get reduced to silicon metal, which then can contaminate the platinum. This is the big problem with carbon and platinum too, as I understand it, because at high temps, carbon is an exceptionally good reducing agent, and can cause even things like the fused quartz in a platinum soldering block to start to reduce like that, thus contaminating the platinum. Now, I don't know if the lower temp range we're talking about here gives the fluxes and equal risk as with higher temp soldering or welding of platinum. Frankly, though I doubt it. And i DO know that if the palladium oxidizes, then a good joint will be harder to get, and the combination of a slightly reducing flame and flux helps to avoid that. But don't get too reducing a flame, because then you run the risk of hydrogen absorbtion by the solder, giving you pits and all... That's how I see it, at any rate. But as i said, I've only soldered palladium to itself a few times. Most of the work I've done with it involves soldering it to gold or silver. So I might be wrong for the hgiher temp work. If the Ganoksin articles contradict me, I'd suggest going with them instead. Just be sure they are specifically mentioning palladium, rather than being instructions for working in platinum. Peter |
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