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#1
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Entry door again?
Last week I posted a question regarding a diamond beveled pattern insert I
am making for my entry door. The insert will measure approximately 20" X 60" and is primarily 4" x 7" beveled diamonds. I originally planned to place the insert between two sheets of tempered glass. Several folks scoffed at my idea and caused me to see the light. Since then I have read a more articles on large panels and have no intention of doing a laminate/ sandwich insert. My question now is what to use to stiffen it? I am not pleased with the looks I have seen with lead came and zinc stiffeners. What about using zinc came or brass came? Are there any pitfalls to be aware of with either of those? Thanks, Rog --- Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free. Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com). Version: 6.0.614 / Virus Database: 393 - Release Date: 3/5/2004 |
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#2
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"Roger Jensen" wrote in message m... Last week I posted a question regarding a diamond beveled pattern insert I am making for my entry door. The insert will measure approximately 20" X 60" and is primarily 4" x 7" beveled diamonds. I originally planned to place the insert between two sheets of tempered glass. Several folks scoffed at my idea and caused me to see the light. Since then I have read a more articles on large panels and have no intention of doing a laminate/ sandwich insert. My question now is what to use to stiffen it? I am not pleased with the looks I have seen with lead came and zinc stiffeners. What about using zinc came or brass came? Are there any pitfalls to be aware of with either of those? Thanks, Rog Using either brass or zinc will give you more rigidity than you will get from lead. Lead is easier to work with, IMO. Brass, while very pretty, is absolutely horrible to cut. It will dull any blade or cutoff wheel you have. I built 15 windows for a church a couple of years ago, with a 7"x 4" diamond pattern out of brass came. Thought I'd NEVER get done with them, swore I'd never ever, ever, do anything with brass again. Doing a geometric pattern as you are, if it were me, I'd go with zinc. No matter what you select, you'll still have to putty the came. On a side note, recently, I've been seeing some zinc came in doors where the zinc is polished, almost to the shine of chrome. How are they doing that? Does anybody know the technique? |
#3
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"Moonraker" wrote in message .. . "Roger Jensen" wrote in message m... Last week I posted a question regarding a diamond beveled pattern insert I am making for my entry door. The insert will measure approximately 20" X 60" and is primarily 4" x 7" beveled diamonds. I originally planned to place the insert between two sheets of tempered glass. Several folks scoffed at my idea and caused me to see the light. Since then I have read a more articles on large panels and have no intention of doing a laminate/ sandwich insert. My question now is what to use to stiffen it? I am not pleased with the looks I have seen with lead came and zinc stiffeners. What about using zinc came or brass came? Are there any pitfalls to be aware of with either of those? Thanks, Rog Using either brass or zinc will give you more rigidity than you will get from lead. Lead is easier to work with, IMO. Brass, while very pretty, is absolutely horrible to cut. It will dull any blade or cutoff wheel you have. I built 15 windows for a church a couple of years ago, with a 7"x 4" diamond pattern out of brass came. Thought I'd NEVER get done with them, swore I'd never ever, ever, do anything with brass again. Doing a geometric pattern as you are, if it were me, I'd go with zinc. No matter what you select, you'll still have to putty the came. On a side note, recently, I've been seeing some zinc came in doors where the zinc is polished, almost to the shine of chrome. How are they doing that? Does anybody know the technique? Electroplate Nickel, and "they" are also doing it in Brass. Have been for a while, Peachtree doors and Therma Tru are both using plated zinc inserts. |
#4
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"Javahut" wrote in message ... On a side note, recently, I've been seeing some zinc came in doors where the zinc is polished, almost to the shine of chrome. How are they doing that? Does anybody know the technique? Electroplate Nickel, and "they" are also doing it in Brass. Have been for a while, Peachtree doors and Therma Tru are both using plated zinc inserts. Is this came purchased already electroplated? Surely they aren't electroplating a finished panel? |
#5
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Electroplate Nickel, and "they" are also doing it in Brass. Have been for a while, Peachtree doors and Therma Tru are both using plated zinc inserts. Is this came purchased already electroplated? Surely they aren't electroplating a finished panel? The Therma-Tru windows are the pieces I have looked at recently, and they were plated after being built....... Why not? Solder a couple of rings to the outside edge to hang them from, use copper wire, hang them from the carrier, dip in the tank, etc. when it is done they are rinsed in clear cold water, wiped down with a chamois cloth, cut the loops off and insulate. Couldn't be easier. in theory. They are not cemented, nor did I see enough room in the metal to add any, very tight tolerances, hence the double roll glass, Spectrum and Pilkington. |
#6
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Is this came purchased already electroplated? Surely they aren't
electroplating a finished panel? Yup, they sure do. You need to drill some small holes in the edge came so they can put little hookes or wires through it to suspend it in the chemical tank. I had some panels electroplated a while back. I was told, before hand at the time, they would NOT plate panels if there was any zinc or putty in them as that would spoil their chemicals. Not sure if that's the way it works in all shops or only at this particular shop. The colours they had available were chrome, brass ("gold"), black and dark brown. You putty the panel after the plating and there are no special tricks you need to do because of the plating although I wouldn't use too stiff a brush. The plating does not affect the glass in any way unless you use irridiant (spelling?) glass, the funky mother of pearl kinda looking stuff, as the chemicals do "bake" onto that type of glass and scratching if off is a tedious and time consuming process. Plating looks real nice and one of the things I like about it is that there's no longer any exposed lead as all of it is totally *encapsulated* (the proper buzz word) and that could be an important sales feature. Plating shops usually charge a flat rate, whatever fits in their chemical tank for $125~200 (in this area, SW Ontario, any way). You might want to ask them about the maximum size panels their tank holds, not much point bringing a 6 foot sidelight if their tank's only 5 feet. Shops are listed in the Yellow Pages under "plating." - Check my most up to date email address at: www.haruteq.com/contact.htm banjo bridges, tabs, stained glass: www.haruteq.com **may your moments of need be met by moments of compassion** |
#7
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"Javahut" wrote in message ... Electroplate Nickel, and "they" are also doing it in Brass. Have been for a while, Peachtree doors and Therma Tru are both using plated zinc inserts. Is this came purchased already electroplated? Surely they aren't electroplating a finished panel? The Therma-Tru windows are the pieces I have looked at recently, and they were plated after being built....... Why not? Solder a couple of rings to the outside edge to hang them from, use copper wire, hang them from the carrier, dip in the tank, etc. when it is done they are rinsed in clear cold water, wiped down with a chamois cloth, cut the loops off and insulate. Couldn't be easier. in theory. They are not cemented, nor did I see enough room in the metal to add any, very tight tolerances, hence the double roll glass, Spectrum and Pilkington. Damned new-fangled technology, anyway! What'll they be thinking up next? ;) |
#8
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While it is true that zinc is stronger the lead. The problem faced
with windows is design,craftsmanship and location. Depending on the above items you may need rebar. MANY zinc window bow, solder joints break etc. because of lack of support. Many builders have fallen under the same misconception as you. I have rebuilt many of them. |
#9
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"vic" wrote in message om... While it is true that zinc is stronger the lead. The problem faced with windows is design,craftsmanship and location. Depending on the above items you may need rebar. MANY zinc window bow, solder joints break etc. because of lack of support. Many builders have fallen under the same misconception as you. I have rebuilt many of them. I agree that design and craftsmanship have a large part to play in how a window/panel performs over the years. In the years that I've specialized in on-site repair and restoration of residental entryway art glass (and bath windows, too), I've seen just about any and all combinations of metals. But if the putty used in the window fails, it doesn't make any difference what metals are used. |
#10
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yeah, so construct it with copper foil and incorporate srongline
reinforcing, even steel rebar if necessary, and you don't have to rely on the putty failing!!! m (i just know this will get off track on the issues of came vs. foil but i gots to say what gots to be said.) But if the putty used in the window fails, it doesn't make any difference what metals are used. |
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