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#1
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Tapestry frame or embroidery hoop
Hi, can anyone advise me as to what to use to hold my cross stitch taut
enough for me to work on. I am thinking about getting a Tapestry frame or Embroidery hoop, but don't know how to use them. (Have only seen pictures of them) Thanks, Jill |
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#2
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For every question in needlework - be that knitting, crocheting, hand
sewing, or embroidery - you will get more than one answer. In the end, you will have to do what you can reasonably afford to do and what is comfortable for you, not what is comfortable for someone else. That includes where and how you sit. In 19th century Western culture, one simply had to sit straight at a table for whatever the needlework task. Thank goodness we no longer have those strict customs. For in the end, that is - with few exceptions - what it is: custom. Cross stitch can be worked in hand, in a small hoop, in a tambour hoop, on scroll rods, stapled to a large frame, laced to a slate frame, set in Q-snaps (whatever those are), and there's probably other ways. If you are new to a task (such as cross stitch) your stitching will improve in time no matter what method you ultimately decide to use. And that method may change as you figure out that the method you chose simply isn't comfortable (hurts the wrist, thumb, shoulders, for instance). And depending upon the size of a piece, the work might be more easily suited to one type implement than another. For instance, a small item will fit readily in a hoop; stiffer fabric might work very well in hand, a large item worked over a long period of time might be better suited to a frame of some sort. I'll let those more knowledgable about scroll frames, slate frames, etc., answer those questions. For hoops: Purchase only high quality hoops that have a good screw mechanism. Cheap hoops made in China will only frustrate you. Bind the inner, the outer, or both with cotton bias tape or strips of muslin. Place fabric on the inner hoop and place the outer hoop half way down. Begin to tighten the screw. Straighten the fabric during the process. When it is finger tight and no wrinkles in the fabric, push the hoop all the way down. Now, with a screw driver, tighten the hoop firmly. The fabric will stay taut until you are ready to remove or simply move it to another spot. A tambour hoop is larger (10+ inches), deeper, and is attached to a small stand. A wing nut replaces the screw. They are awkward to hold in your lap, but I do it in spite of the trouble. They are meant to sit on a table and be clamped down, or weighted down with a bag of sand - which unless very heavy, doesn't work well. Tambour hoops flip freely on the stand so you can rotate it to readily work the underside to tie off threads, etc. Good luck on your adventures in needlework. Welcome to RCTN. Dianne Jill Spottiswoode wrote: Hi, can anyone advise me as to what to use to hold my cross stitch taut enough for me to work on. I am thinking about getting a Tapestry frame or Embroidery hoop, but don't know how to use them. (Have only seen pictures of them) Thanks, Jill |
#3
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From: "Jill Spottiswoode"
Hi, can anyone advise me as to what to use to hold my cross stitch taut enough for me to work on. I am thinking about getting a Tapestry frame or Embroidery hoop, but don't know how to use them. (Have only seen pictures of them)....... This won't surprise anyone but I recommend the FANTASTIC StitchAway Fabric Mount! BIg surprise, huh?? There is absolutely *nothing* on the market that is easier to use AND keeps your needlework fabric as tight as you want for as long as you want. Here's Fred's website http://www.stitchaway.com . The standard NAYY applies -- just a VERY happy and satisfied customer :-))). CiaoMeow ^;;^ .. PAX, Tia Mary ^;;^ Angels can't show their wings on earth but nothing was ever said about their WHISKERS!! Nothing is complete without a few cat hairs! |
#4
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Jill Spottiswoode opined thusly:
Hi, can anyone advise me as to what to use to hold my cross stitch taut enough for me to work on. I am thinking about getting a Tapestry frame or Embroidery hoop, but don't know how to use them. (Have only seen pictures of them) Thanks, Jill I think you'll get a zillion different opinions on this excellant question. There's no one right answer to your question, it's an entirely subjective thing. If you do cross-stitch long enough, then chances are you will buy and/or try out at least a couple different methods of keeping your fabric taut. The good news is that all these devices are relatively affordable (in the begining at least), and can be re-used almost infinately. I use either a hoop, artists stretcher bars, a scroll frame, or a quilting hoop - depending on the project at hand. I would suggest that if the project is smallish to start with an embroidery hoop first. If you find you do not like it, you can always change to stretcher bars or a scroll frame in mid-stitching. If the project is larger than..... 12" x 12" or so then maybe think about giving stretcher bars a try. I tend to avoid hoops these days because of the rings they leave in the fabric as the stitching progresses. I only use them for the smallest of projects. That's just my personal preference. Good luck! --Anne |
#5
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I like Q-Snaps very much. They're great with Aida and other
commonly-used cross stitch fabrics. They are lighweight and inexpensive. I've also used wood embroidery hoops, usually with linen. Also very affordable - but get the good German ones, they're worth the extra money. The Stitch-a-Way frame may be too big a financial investment for a beginner, at least until you've tried some of the less expensive alternatives: hoops, Q-Snaps, etc. That said, I often do my cross stitching without any frame at all. Just enjoy it. MaryR |
#6
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Jill, if you use one hand on the front of your work and the other is on the
back, a frame would probably be the best. If you wanted to use a hoop, you would have to get a holder to use both hands. Also you should not leave work in a hoop any length of time. If you use a frame, after you get the fabric attached to the stretcher bars of the scroll frame, you can leave it there as long as you want to. There are a lot of good frames (and a lot of not so good frames) so it would be good if you could find some place to see a frame and perhaps try it. You might even try posting here your general area and you might be lucky enough to find someone who has a frame and would show it to you. If you get a frame, make sure that you can return it in a specific time if you don't like it. Good luck, Boo |
#7
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Boohoo1971 wrote:
Jill, if you use one hand on the front of your work and the other is on the back, a frame would probably be the best. Actually, you can get perfect stitching tension on a frame by not having the fabric drum tight, thereby negating the necessity of doing the work two-handed as you describe it. You can use the sewing method on framed works. Or the one-handed stab method. If you wanted to use a hoop, you would have to get a holder to use both hands. No, you don't. A tambour hoop comes equipped with a stand. Or, many just use a hoop and stitch one-handed. It may, or may not, be a tad slower than the two-handed method. Also you should not leave work in a hoop any length of time. Some people have had trouble with aida that has been stretched over a hoop for months at a time. But a thorough soaking/washing will remove hoop marks that may, or may not, be there. You may have to soak over night, or a day or two. This may be because aida is generally heavily sized. It is never a good idea to leave ANY fabric in a hoop for months. That being said, I leave plenty of fabric in hoops for a year or more and have never had the least problem. Now, if you're not going to wash your work when finished, that is another story altogether. And, another conversation. :-) Dianne |
#8
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Victoria,
Please allow me to enlighten you a wee bit. With the old style scroll frames one rolled their ground fabric off of one dowel onto the other dowel as they stitched. The old scroll dowels often had a habit of loosening up and rotating slightly thereby often allowing the ground fabric to loosen up. The twill tape stapled to the dowel often sagged between the staples allowing the ground fabric to get wavy and distorted as one stitched, especially when doing basket weave or continental stitches. Stitching ground fabric onto the twill tape and getting it on straight was a pain for a lot of people, plus if one wanted to change ones' fabric and work on something else mid project one had to rip out the stitches holding the fabric to the twill tape. Then stitch on the new piece of fabric. Some people taped their fabric to the dowels only to have the tape dry out and fall off or worse, gum up the fabric. All of this results in distortion to the ground fabric by the time the project is finished. The hook and eye (Velcro?) method was an improvement over the twill tape but one always needs to buy a new piece to glue onto the new ground fabric when changing from one project to another - one usually needs it on a dark and stormy night when all the LNS are closed. LOL! However the old style scroll frames are cheap - or - are they??? Professional framers have a hidden or visible charge on their invoices for professional blocking with costs ranging from $60 to $80 as it can take up to 3 weeks to get the distortion out. Removal of masking tape glue is extra. A 3-day blocking effort by an unprofessional may look good for a while but the tension/distortion in the fabric returns causing the fabric to move in the finished frame and is very noticeable along the mat edge where it meets the fabric. The Stitch Away fabric mount uses an entirely different approach to holding ground fabric and one does NOT crush stitched fabric under the white fabric retaining bars because there will be no stitches there to crush. On the home page at http://www.stitchaway.com you will see a ballerina project on a C1622A model Stitch Away Fabric Mount. Visualize for the moment that the ballerina has *NOT* being stitched on to the ground fabric yet. Now what you see is a blank piece of 16" x 24" ground fabric mounted on the fabric mount READY for stitching. There really is no top, bottom, left or right designations to the fabric mount (one can hold the fabric mount right side up, upside down or in the landscape position and stitch) but let us refer to the end with the tension adjusting knobs as the top. The white fabric retaining bars (upper & lower) secure the *vertical* threads of the blank ground fabric into grooves in the upper and lower fabric supports. There is no need for tape, staples or tacks. The left and right side rails of the fabric mount help protect the fabric from fraying - no basting/sticky tape required. You will see the head of a small peg on each side of the fabric mount near the bottom. These pegs stop the lower fabric support from moving upward, (more on that later). The fabric tension knobs at the top cause the upper fabric support to move upward, applying tension in the fabric and as the white fabric retaining bars have secured the *vertical* threads in the fabric evenly (left to right) the *vertical* tension in the fabric is the same on the left as it is on the right. Now you mark the center of your fabric. The fabric mount is very light and you can hold the fabric mount in hand, attach it to floor stand, use a ribbon easel holding the fabric mount on your lap or lean the fabric mount against a table either in the portrait or landscape position and STITCH AWAY!!! More on the stop pegs. Let us say you wanted to attach a 16" x 16" instead of the 16" x 24" piece of ground fabric. There are a series of holes drilled about 1" apart in the fabric mount side rails (you can't see these holes on the web site). You place the upper edge of your ground fabric into the upper fabric support with a white fabric-retaining bar. You remove the stop pegs, move the lower fabric support up towards the center to a position that will allow the lower end of the ground fabric to enter the lower fabric support groove, place the lower edge of your fabric into the lower fabric support with a white fabric retaining bar, insert the stop pegs into a new set of holes in the side rails to prevent any further upward travel of the lower fabric support. Rotate the fabric tension knobs. This will cause the upper fabric support to move upwards until you have the desired tension in your fabric. Now you mark the center of your fabric and STITCH AWAY! Geeeesh! I can attach ground fabric faster than I can type instructions as to how to do it. BTW I saw a 70-year old woman who had a severe case of arthritis attach her fabric in less than a minute and that is even faster than I can do it. Let us say you wanted to attach a 16" x 30" instead of the 16" x 24" piece of ground fabric and you don't want to cut it to length. You want to save the extra length to help out the framer. You place the upper edge of your ground fabric into the upper fabric support with a white fabric-retaining bar. You lay the bottom portion of the fabric across the lower fabric support and press in the lower fabric-retaining bar. You let the excess fabric hang over the bottom or if it is really long just roll it up and secure it out of the way with an elastic band. Rotate the fabric tension knobs. This will cause the upper fabric support to move upwards until you have the desired tension in your fabric. Now you mark the center of your fabric and STITCH AWAY! The instructions for doing bell pulls are too long to post here but I can assure you there is *NO* way that stitched ground fabric ever gets crushed under a white fabric-retaining bar. It is kind of hard to explain but when one is doing bell pulls, as one progresses, the stitched fabric is rolled *over top* of the lower fabric support and lower fabric-retaining bar and is out of the way. Hey! The Stitch Away fabric mount may not be for every one but as far as I know they work well for everyone who has ever purchased one because I have never had one returned for *ANY* reason in the 5 years they have been on the market. It makes me wonder why I advertise a 28-day purchase price return guarantee and a full year repair or replacement warrantee for material and workmanship. I have been able to make needle workers in England, Ireland, Australia, China, Japan, Canada and three quarters of the good old United States of America happy so I'm happy!! Plus making the fabric mounts keeps me out of my DWs' hair. LOL! Hey! Don't take my word for it. Go visit Tia Mary and Janet at Stitcher's World or go visit the Lincoln center for the arts and see the STITCH AWAY fabric mounts in action! Happy stitching! Fred http://www.stitchaway.com If you are on thin ice you might as well dance! W.I.P. - "Fiddler on the Roof". W.I.L., "Romantic Venice", "Ocean Princess", "Southwest Charm", "Rainbow Trail", "Indian Pottery", "One Earth", "Spirit of the Full Moon" and "+?", "+?", "+?". "animaux" wrote in message ... On 20 Sep 2003 19:19:15 GMT, ekoluvr (Tia Mary-remove nekoluvr to reply ) opined: This won't surprise anyone but I recommend the FANTASTIC StitchAway Fabric Mount! BIg surprise, huh?? There is absolutely *nothing* on the market that is easier to use AND keeps your needlework fabric as tight as you want for as long as you want. Here's Fred's website http://www.stitchaway.com . The standard NAYY applies -- just a VERY happy and satisfied customer :-))). CiaoMeow ^;;^ I didn't see what the sizes are of this fabric mount system. It does look interesting and easy to use. When you move along on the work and have to press already stitched areas into the frame, does it do anything to the stitches? I have a K's Creation Perfect Tension frame, but plan to upgrade to the new plastic tension clamps so I can use other size side bars. It can be seen he http://www.kscreations.com/acc_perfecttension.htm I like this very much since I like my fabric tight as a drum. |
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