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#1
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Quality ironing board cover
Me again
I am looking to replace the ironing board cover that came with my ironing board. I bought the board because it was the best construction- but the manufacturer cut corners with the cover. What should I look for to know that it is a good quality? I will not sew one, and I do not want one of the "reflective" material ones. I mainly use it for pressing my uniform shirts and quilting. Thanks again, Julie Richmond, VA |
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#3
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Kate Dicey wrote:
wrote: Me again I am looking to replace the ironing board cover that came with my ironing board. I bought the board because it was the best construction- but the manufacturer cut corners with the cover. What should I look for to know that it is a good quality? I will not sew one, and I do not want one of the "reflective" material ones. I mainly use it for pressing my uniform shirts and quilting. Thanks again, Julie Richmond, VA No need to sew it! just arm yourself with a couple of ironing board felts, some plain cotton calico/muslin, and a staple gun! Place the calico on the floor, place the felt on top, and the ironing board on top of that - upside down. Now cut the felt close to the board, and the calico about 4" out. Fold the calico over and staple to the under side of the board, pulling taut all round the edges. Make sure the staples are fully into the board. You can't _do_ that with most new ironing boards. They're metal. jenn -- Jenn Ridley |
#4
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"Jenn Ridley" wrote in message ... Kate Dicey wrote: No need to sew it! just arm yourself with a couple of ironing board felts, some plain cotton calico/muslin, and a staple gun! Place the calico on the floor, place the felt on top, and the ironing board on top of that - upside down. Now cut the felt close to the board, and the calico about 4" out. Fold the calico over and staple to the under side of the board, pulling taut all round the edges. Make sure the staples are fully into the board. You can't _do_ that with most new ironing boards. They're metal. jenn Right Jenn, I have a metal board and the staples don't work well I did what Kate did up till the staple part. I laid the board upside down on a length of heavy cotton duck cloth and then traced around it about 6 inches out from the sides. I then did a double turned 1 inch seam and pinned it, sewed it around and then hammered grommets around about 4 inches apart, directly opposite down each side in the double seams. Then I put it on the board and laced it up tight with cotton grosgrain ribbon stuff. Worked great, nice and snug and you can take it off to wash it if you need to. Val |
#5
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I would go to Walmart and buy one, and if the fabric seems a bit "cheesy",
buy 2 and change it sooner....... Me again I am looking to replace the ironing board cover that came with my ironing |
#6
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"Pat" wrote:
I would go to Walmart and buy one, and if the fabric seems a bit "cheesy", buy 2 and change it sooner....... She wants a good ironing board cover, not a cheap one that needs to be replaced more often. She's got a cheesy cover, and wants a better one. I'd probably look for a good heavy cotton cover. Most of the plain ones I've seen come with attached pads. jenn -- Jenn Ridley |
#7
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On Wed, 21 Jan 2004 11:29:06 -0500, wrote:
Me again I am looking to replace the ironing board cover that came with my ironing board. I bought the board because it was the best construction- but the manufacturer cut corners with the cover. I could never quite find what I wanted, partly because my board is wider than average and the standard covers don't fit. However, I don't want to get rid of the board: it's metal mesh rather than wood - nice and light for when I have to put it away, and it adjusts height very easily. The metal grid is handy for embossing velvet, but the rest of the time it's heavily padded with Turkish towelling, otherwise the grid pattern shows through on everything. In the end I opted for an ordinary Teflon cover from the supermarket, and I use a white cotton sheet over that where necessary - it's easier to wash than a fitted cover and you can pin it tight with safety pins if need be. In both cases, that gives a nice plain background with no pattern to show through (why they put such heavy patterns on covers is beyond me). Trish |
#8
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On Wed, 21 Jan 2004 11:29:06 -0500,
wrote: I made my ironing-board cover of heavy unbleached cotton duck. It takes pins very well. Somewhere around here I've got a piece of canton flannel, which is heavy cotton twill that's brushed on one side. (I used to throw it over a couple of blankets on an old table when I ironed yardage.) When the current cover wears out, I'll use the canton flannel to make the new one -- if I still remember that I've got it; the cover I made with the other half of that piece of duck lasted at least ten years -- and DH no longer wears white shirts! I cut the cover the size of the top, plus the thickness of the board and a seam allowance all around, rounded the corners, then sewed on a strip of muslin (unbleached calico) I'd made a drawstring casing in. Used nylon chalk line for the drawstring so it would draw in such a long casing. A drawstring doesn't hold very well on a long, narrow shape, so I threaded carpet warp (cotton string) into a very large needle, and, in three places under the board, took a stitch across and tied the ends together with a surgeon's knot. I made the padding from the good parts of a worn-out wool mattress pad, two or three layers thick because I like to stick pins into the board when I'm sewing. I also made the padding too big, so that it comes down over the edges of the board, and this is really handy when I'm ironing shirts. I can stick the corner of the board into the shoulder of the shirt and iron past the shoulder seam even though I can't quite get it up onto the top of the board. On many occasions, the padded edges allow me to use a corner of the board instead of setting up the ham. I found a few scraps of light plywood in different sizes and took DH's orbital sander to them, smoothing both sides and rounding the edges and corners. I rarely sew without using at least one -- it's a firm surface to write on or iron in a sharp crease, I'll stick it between layers to keep from pinning both sides, flatten things between two layers of plywood with a stack of books on top, stick a piece under fabric to keep my tracing wheel from damaging the table, and on and on. Joy Beeson -- http://home.earthlink.net/~joybeeson/ -- needlework http://home.earthlink.net/~beeson_n3f/ -- Writers' Exchange joy beeson at earthlink dot net |
#9
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Thanks for the responses and options. I did just buy my wonderful metal
mesh Brabantia ironing board not too long ago. It has the really awesome Y leg formation instead of the (unstable for me) T type. The problem with the cover that came with it- is that it doesn't quite fit and stay on the board. Its also very obviously cheap. I'll look around a little. I don't need another project on my list- or I'll never make any progress Thanks again! Julie Richmond, VA said... Me again I am looking to replace the ironing board cover that came with my ironing board. I bought the board because it was the best construction- but the manufacturer cut corners with the cover. What should I look for to know that it is a good quality? I will not sew one, and I do not want one of the "reflective" material ones. I mainly use it for pressing my uniform shirts and quilting. Thanks again, Julie Richmond, VA |
#10
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I got frustrated, having to change ironing board covers so often and so I made
my own by the methods most people have suggested (ie lay board on floor, trace pattern etc). I was lucky enough to find a cheap (three dollars) cotton blanket and felt this, folded, was perfect for the padding on my board. It's thick, has never 'tamped down' and is easily washable. It withstands high heat really well and the only problem has been that I *should* have shrunk it before putting it on the board. After the first wash, it shrank quite a bit, but that was OK, since I hadn't cut it to fit, simply bound it round the board. For the cover, I used a bit of heavy grey cotton drill that I'd bought to make tough school pants for DS. It's lasted all these - hmmm - ten years! It's grey, which is nice: I'm not a fan of those big, blowsy, frowsy floral prints! It just has a hem on it and I threaded some stout nylon cord through that to pull it tight. -- Trish {|:-} Newcastle, NSW, Australia |
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