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#11
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Worden and Odyssey Lamps
Michael wrote:
I'm wanting to build a Tiffany lamp. I've noticed that Worden and Odyssey are two of the major players. I would appreciate any feedback you might have on the quality of the forms and patterns provided by the two companies. Michael ================================================== ========= I have built a few lampshades over the past 25 or so years. about 1,080 or so, many have been one to three hour start to finish time panel lamps about 150 have been Odyssey about 200 or so Worden, many before the "full form" styrofoam was developed what shade do you have in mind? how deep are your pockets? do you have a follow up shade (same size) in mind? worden's can have the pattern exchanged odyssey tend towards using the same pattern only for the given form For me (re-sale) Odyssey is only way to go as most of the retail purchasers' need the reinforcement of seeing the expensive shade they are buying illustrated in any of about 3 major Tiffany Shade Art books. More questions? ask here or try direct to me Howard |
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#12
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Worden and Odyssey Lamps
Thanks to everyone who has posted on the subject. I've been polishing
my glasscutting skills. They were pretty darned rusty. I've got a Worden Tulip mold coming. I was careful (I hope) to not get one with too big of pieces like javahut suggested. I could just wait until it gets here and read the directions first, but I do have question. A book I was recently looking at showed the only thing supporting the lamp as a metal cap soldered onto the top. Is that really enough to support a lamp? I notice that the Odyssey lamps have got a cap, a ring, and something else supporting the lamp. The people I ordered the mold from recommended that I get the 4" cap for the top and support it from the bottom with a slightly larger cap, and somehow squish them together. Does this sound valid? Thank you, Michael |
#13
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Worden and Odyssey Lamps
"Michael" wrote in message ups.com... Thanks to everyone who has posted on the subject. I've been polishing my glasscutting skills. They were pretty darned rusty. I've got a Worden Tulip mold coming. I was careful (I hope) to not get one with too big of pieces like javahut suggested. I could just wait until it gets here and read the directions first, but I do have question. A book I was recently looking at showed the only thing supporting the lamp as a metal cap soldered onto the top. Is that really enough to support a lamp? I notice that the Odyssey lamps have got a cap, a ring, and something else supporting the lamp. The people I ordered the mold from recommended that I get the 4" cap for the top and support it from the bottom with a slightly larger cap, and somehow squish them together. Does this sound valid? Sure it will work, but keep in mind the forces on your lamp, that method will work IF you do some things similar to what they did back in the good ole days, that are brought forward with methods similar to what Odyssey is doing. When you build your shade, at the aperture ring, or top opening, solder in a heavy copper or brass ring. of some kind. Years ago we used number 10 copper wire, bent around a propane tank, or something similar. Use 1/8 in welding rod or brass rod from the hardware store, bend it around something slightly larger in diameter, and squeeze it into size just before installing it, and solder it in place. I want to emphasize this, but not be mistaken for yelling, ONLY TACK IT IN 3 PLACES equidistant around the circumference of the ring until the shade is off the mold. attach the bottom rim to the shade THEN level the shade by the aperture ring. If you run into trouble when you get to that point, post but DO NOT fill that gap between ring and glass before you post that you are confused. The solution is very simple, but if you fill the solder area in first, it is much more work. Once that ring is in place, if you want to use a "wheel" as does odyssey , or use another cap under with one over it, you can do so easily without fear that the upward pull of the bottom cap, and the downward sucking of the earth,(gravity) along with the weight of those 3 lbs of solder pulling downward, won't pull the bottom cap right up thru your fine tight lines on the lamp shade. Is that detail enough? Feel like somebody asked what time it was and I told them how to build a watch, sorry about that, I must be "jonesing" from no activity on the board in so long!! not even a good catfight. |
#14
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Worden and Odyssey Lamps
You forgot to tell him to use 900F soldering tips....LOL
"Javahut" wrote in message ... "Michael" wrote in message ups.com... Thanks to everyone who has posted on the subject. I've been polishing my glasscutting skills. They were pretty darned rusty. I've got a Worden Tulip mold coming. I was careful (I hope) to not get one with too big of pieces like javahut suggested. I could just wait until it gets here and read the directions first, but I do have question. A book I was recently looking at showed the only thing supporting the lamp as a metal cap soldered onto the top. Is that really enough to support a lamp? I notice that the Odyssey lamps have got a cap, a ring, and something else supporting the lamp. The people I ordered the mold from recommended that I get the 4" cap for the top and support it from the bottom with a slightly larger cap, and somehow squish them together. Does this sound valid? Sure it will work, but keep in mind the forces on your lamp, that method will work IF you do some things similar to what they did back in the good ole days, that are brought forward with methods similar to what Odyssey is doing. When you build your shade, at the aperture ring, or top opening, solder in a heavy copper or brass ring. of some kind. Years ago we used number 10 copper wire, bent around a propane tank, or something similar. Use 1/8 in welding rod or brass rod from the hardware store, bend it around something slightly larger in diameter, and squeeze it into size just before installing it, and solder it in place. I want to emphasize this, but not be mistaken for yelling, ONLY TACK IT IN 3 PLACES equidistant around the circumference of the ring until the shade is off the mold. attach the bottom rim to the shade THEN level the shade by the aperture ring. If you run into trouble when you get to that point, post but DO NOT fill that gap between ring and glass before you post that you are confused. The solution is very simple, but if you fill the solder area in first, it is much more work. Once that ring is in place, if you want to use a "wheel" as does odyssey , or use another cap under with one over it, you can do so easily without fear that the upward pull of the bottom cap, and the downward sucking of the earth,(gravity) along with the weight of those 3 lbs of solder pulling downward, won't pull the bottom cap right up thru your fine tight lines on the lamp shade. Is that detail enough? Feel like somebody asked what time it was and I told them how to build a watch, sorry about that, I must be "jonesing" from no activity on the board in so long!! not even a good catfight. |
#15
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Worden and Odyssey Lamps
Javahut wrote:
Is that detail enough? Feel like somebody asked what time it was and I told them how to build a watch, sorry about that, I must be "jonesing" from no activity on the board in so long!! not even a good catfight. *************** Thank you! I do have an additional question. Is the copper or brass ring something that should always be used in addition to a single cap, or are you saying this is an additional piece I should use if I am using two caps, one on top and one on bottom? Michael |
#16
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Worden and Odyssey Lamps
"Michael" wrote in message ups.com... Thanks to everyone who has posted on the subject. I've been polishing my glasscutting skills. They were pretty darned rusty. I've got a Worden Tulip mold coming. I was careful (I hope) to not get one with too big of pieces like javahut suggested. I could just wait until it gets here and read the directions first, but I do have question. A book I was recently looking at showed the only thing supporting the lamp as a metal cap soldered onto the top. Is that really enough to support a lamp? A copperfoil lamp with a cap is enough for most. We solder a thin wire around the skirt as well to keep it from separating years down the road. -- JK Sinrod www.SinrodStudios.com www.MyConeyIslandMemories.com |
#17
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Worden and Odyssey Lamps
"Michael" wrote in message ups.com... Javahut wrote: Is that detail enough? Feel like somebody asked what time it was and I told them how to build a watch, sorry about that, I must be "jonesing" from no activity on the board in so long!! not even a good catfight. *************** Thank you! I do have an additional question. Is the copper or brass ring something that should always be used in addition to a single cap, or are you saying this is an additional piece I should use if I am using two caps, one on top and one on bottom? Should always be used......think about it for a second, the glass at the top is only attached , to anything, by the single solder line attached to a thin piece of tape. the ring acts a unifying structural element so that a cap or wheel or what ever is exerting pressure on the whole area instead of one spot. It looks good too, if done with some finesse. |
#18
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Worden and Odyssey Lamps
Thanks, JK and Javahut. I have been giving the support a lot of
thought, and the idea of just the cap soldered to the top of thin copper tape with adhesive holding it onto a few small glass pieces is scary, even if they are reinforced with a fat coating of solder. I am going to be inclined to reinforce as much as I can without impacting the aesthetics. I would probably go with the ring/wheel/cap Olympia setup except the combo for a 4 inch set is over $50. At least on my first few lamps I'm not going to be concerned with matching originals, so that's just a little heavy on the cost. I am going to go with your suggestions. A wire ring soldered in the center and maybe the second lower cap sound like a sturdy but low dollar solution. I also like the idea of soldering a thin wire around the skirt. Thanks again, Michael |
#19
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Worden and Odyssey Lamps
"Michael" wrote in message oups.com... Thanks, JK and Javahut. I have been giving the support a lot of thought, and the idea of just the cap soldered to the top of thin copper tape with adhesive holding it onto a few small glass pieces is scary, even if they are reinforced with a fat coating of solder. I am going to be inclined to reinforce as much as I can without impacting the aesthetics. I would probably go with the ring/wheel/cap Olympia setup except the combo for a 4 inch set is over $50. At least on my first few lamps I'm not going to be concerned with matching originals, so that's just a little heavy on the cost. I am going to go with your suggestions. A wire ring soldered in the center and maybe the second lower cap sound like a sturdy but low dollar solution. I also like the idea of soldering a thin wire around the skirt. Thanks again, Michael I've made not hundreds but thousands of lamps. All had one cap on top soldered into all the meeting leadlines. Haven't had one come back in over 30 years. But..................... I fix about 1 lamp a week that was made overseas where the cap popped off. The most common reasons a the cap was tacked in only a few places and the customer used a 200 watt bulb. By all means do what you like, overkill is a good thing when you don't need to make money on it. -- JK Sinrod www.SinrodStudios.com www.MyConeyIslandMemories.com |
#20
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Worden and Odyssey Lamps
I got a big (for me) glass order yesterday. I was really excited.
Like a child on Christmas morning. My 16" Worden tulip lamp mold came, too. I about passed out from shock when I saw it uses over 500 parts. Darn! I never imagined so many pieces. None of the cuts are difficult. Just small pieces so accuracy will count. I didn't see any recommendation on copper tape size. Maybe I didn't look close enough. I figure 3/16". Does that sound right? Thanks, Michael |
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