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Worden and Odyssey Lamps



 
 
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  #11  
Old August 12th 07, 11:00 PM posted to rec.crafts.glass
howard
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Posts: 14
Default Worden and Odyssey Lamps

Michael wrote:
I'm wanting to build a Tiffany lamp. I've noticed that Worden and
Odyssey are two of the major players. I would appreciate any feedback
you might have on the quality of the forms and patterns provided by
the two companies.

Michael

================================================== =========
I have built a few lampshades over the past 25 or so years.

about 1,080 or so, many have been one to three hour start to finish time
panel lamps

about 150 have been Odyssey
about 200 or so Worden, many before the "full form" styrofoam was developed

what shade do you have in mind?

how deep are your pockets?

do you have a follow up shade (same size) in mind?

worden's can have the pattern exchanged
odyssey tend towards using the same pattern only for the given form

For me (re-sale) Odyssey is only way to go as most of the retail
purchasers' need the reinforcement of seeing the expensive shade they
are buying illustrated in any of about 3 major Tiffany Shade Art books.

More questions? ask here or try direct to me

Howard

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  #12  
Old September 5th 07, 02:13 AM posted to rec.crafts.glass
Michael[_2_]
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Posts: 123
Default Worden and Odyssey Lamps

Thanks to everyone who has posted on the subject. I've been polishing
my glasscutting skills. They were pretty darned rusty. I've got a
Worden Tulip mold coming. I was careful (I hope) to not get one with
too big of pieces like javahut suggested. I could just wait until it
gets here and read the directions first, but I do have question. A
book I was recently looking at showed the only thing supporting the
lamp as a metal cap soldered onto the top. Is that really enough to
support a lamp? I notice that the Odyssey lamps have got a cap, a
ring, and something else supporting the lamp.

The people I ordered the mold from recommended that I get the 4" cap
for the top and support it from the bottom with a slightly larger cap,
and somehow squish them together. Does this sound valid?

Thank you, Michael

  #13  
Old September 5th 07, 02:40 AM posted to rec.crafts.glass
Javahut[_3_]
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Posts: 9
Default Worden and Odyssey Lamps


"Michael" wrote in message
ups.com...
Thanks to everyone who has posted on the subject. I've been polishing
my glasscutting skills. They were pretty darned rusty. I've got a
Worden Tulip mold coming. I was careful (I hope) to not get one with
too big of pieces like javahut suggested. I could just wait until it
gets here and read the directions first, but I do have question. A
book I was recently looking at showed the only thing supporting the
lamp as a metal cap soldered onto the top. Is that really enough to
support a lamp? I notice that the Odyssey lamps have got a cap, a
ring, and something else supporting the lamp.

The people I ordered the mold from recommended that I get the 4" cap
for the top and support it from the bottom with a slightly larger cap,
and somehow squish them together. Does this sound valid?



Sure it will work, but keep in mind the forces on your lamp, that method
will work IF you do some things similar to what they did back in the good
ole days, that are brought forward with methods similar to what Odyssey is
doing.

When you build your shade, at the aperture ring, or top opening, solder in a
heavy copper or brass ring. of some kind. Years ago we used number 10
copper wire, bent around a propane tank, or something similar. Use 1/8 in
welding rod or brass rod from the hardware store, bend it around something
slightly larger in diameter, and squeeze it into size just before installing
it, and solder it in place.

I want to emphasize this, but not be mistaken for yelling, ONLY TACK IT IN
3 PLACES equidistant around the circumference of the ring until the shade is
off the mold. attach the bottom rim to the shade THEN level the shade by
the aperture ring. If you run into trouble when you get to that point, post
but DO NOT fill that gap between ring and glass before you post that you are
confused. The solution is very simple, but if you fill the solder area in
first, it is much more work.

Once that ring is in place, if you want to use a "wheel" as does odyssey ,
or use another cap under with one over it, you can do so easily without fear
that the upward pull of the bottom cap, and the downward sucking of the
earth,(gravity) along with the weight of those 3 lbs of solder pulling
downward, won't pull the bottom cap right up thru your fine tight lines on
the lamp shade.

Is that detail enough? Feel like somebody asked what time it was and I told
them how to build a watch, sorry about that, I must be "jonesing" from no
activity on the board in so long!! not even a good catfight.


  #14  
Old September 5th 07, 03:00 AM posted to rec.crafts.glass
Moonraker[_2_]
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Posts: 186
Default Worden and Odyssey Lamps

You forgot to tell him to use 900F soldering tips....LOL


"Javahut" wrote in message
...

"Michael" wrote in message
ups.com...
Thanks to everyone who has posted on the subject. I've been polishing
my glasscutting skills. They were pretty darned rusty. I've got a
Worden Tulip mold coming. I was careful (I hope) to not get one with
too big of pieces like javahut suggested. I could just wait until it
gets here and read the directions first, but I do have question. A
book I was recently looking at showed the only thing supporting the
lamp as a metal cap soldered onto the top. Is that really enough to
support a lamp? I notice that the Odyssey lamps have got a cap, a
ring, and something else supporting the lamp.

The people I ordered the mold from recommended that I get the 4" cap
for the top and support it from the bottom with a slightly larger cap,
and somehow squish them together. Does this sound valid?



Sure it will work, but keep in mind the forces on your lamp, that method
will work IF you do some things similar to what they did back in the good
ole days, that are brought forward with methods similar to what Odyssey is
doing.

When you build your shade, at the aperture ring, or top opening, solder in
a
heavy copper or brass ring. of some kind. Years ago we used number 10
copper wire, bent around a propane tank, or something similar. Use 1/8 in
welding rod or brass rod from the hardware store, bend it around something
slightly larger in diameter, and squeeze it into size just before
installing
it, and solder it in place.

I want to emphasize this, but not be mistaken for yelling, ONLY TACK IT
IN
3 PLACES equidistant around the circumference of the ring until the shade
is
off the mold. attach the bottom rim to the shade THEN level the shade by
the aperture ring. If you run into trouble when you get to that point,
post
but DO NOT fill that gap between ring and glass before you post that you
are
confused. The solution is very simple, but if you fill the solder area in
first, it is much more work.

Once that ring is in place, if you want to use a "wheel" as does odyssey ,
or use another cap under with one over it, you can do so easily without
fear
that the upward pull of the bottom cap, and the downward sucking of the
earth,(gravity) along with the weight of those 3 lbs of solder pulling
downward, won't pull the bottom cap right up thru your fine tight lines on
the lamp shade.

Is that detail enough? Feel like somebody asked what time it was and I
told
them how to build a watch, sorry about that, I must be "jonesing" from no
activity on the board in so long!! not even a good catfight.




  #15  
Old September 5th 07, 11:28 AM posted to rec.crafts.glass
Michael[_2_]
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 123
Default Worden and Odyssey Lamps

Javahut wrote:

Is that detail enough? Feel like somebody asked what time it was and
I told them how to build a watch, sorry about that, I must be
"jonesing" from no activity on the board in so long!! not even a good
catfight.

***************
Thank you! I do have an additional question. Is the copper or brass
ring something that should always be used in addition to a single cap,
or are you saying this is an additional piece I should use if I am
using two caps, one on top and one on bottom?

Michael


  #16  
Old September 5th 07, 12:35 PM posted to rec.crafts.glass
Glassman
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Posts: 226
Default Worden and Odyssey Lamps


"Michael" wrote in message
ups.com...
Thanks to everyone who has posted on the subject. I've been polishing
my glasscutting skills. They were pretty darned rusty. I've got a
Worden Tulip mold coming. I was careful (I hope) to not get one with
too big of pieces like javahut suggested. I could just wait until it
gets here and read the directions first, but I do have question. A
book I was recently looking at showed the only thing supporting the
lamp as a metal cap soldered onto the top. Is that really enough to
support a lamp?




A copperfoil lamp with a cap is enough for most. We solder a thin wire
around the skirt as well to keep it from separating years down the road.

--
JK Sinrod
www.SinrodStudios.com
www.MyConeyIslandMemories.com


  #17  
Old September 5th 07, 01:13 PM posted to rec.crafts.glass
Javahut[_3_]
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 9
Default Worden and Odyssey Lamps


"Michael" wrote in message
ups.com...
Javahut wrote:

Is that detail enough? Feel like somebody asked what time it was and
I told them how to build a watch, sorry about that, I must be
"jonesing" from no activity on the board in so long!! not even a good
catfight.

***************
Thank you! I do have an additional question. Is the copper or brass
ring something that should always be used in addition to a single cap,
or are you saying this is an additional piece I should use if I am
using two caps, one on top and one on bottom?



Should always be used......think about it for a second, the glass at the top
is only attached , to anything, by the single solder line attached to a thin
piece of tape. the ring acts a unifying structural element so that a cap or
wheel or what ever is exerting pressure on the whole area instead of one
spot.

It looks good too, if done with some finesse.


  #18  
Old September 6th 07, 01:37 AM posted to rec.crafts.glass
Michael[_2_]
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Posts: 123
Default Worden and Odyssey Lamps

Thanks, JK and Javahut. I have been giving the support a lot of
thought, and the idea of just the cap soldered to the top of thin
copper tape with adhesive holding it onto a few small glass pieces is
scary, even if they are reinforced with a fat coating of solder. I am
going to be inclined to reinforce as much as I can without impacting
the aesthetics. I would probably go with the ring/wheel/cap Olympia
setup except the combo for a 4 inch set is over $50. At least on my
first few lamps I'm not going to be concerned with matching originals,
so that's just a little heavy on the cost.

I am going to go with your suggestions. A wire ring soldered in the
center and maybe the second lower cap sound like a sturdy but low
dollar solution. I also like the idea of soldering a thin wire around
the skirt.

Thanks again, Michael

  #19  
Old September 6th 07, 04:08 AM posted to rec.crafts.glass
Glassman
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 226
Default Worden and Odyssey Lamps


"Michael" wrote in message
oups.com...
Thanks, JK and Javahut. I have been giving the support a lot of
thought, and the idea of just the cap soldered to the top of thin
copper tape with adhesive holding it onto a few small glass pieces is
scary, even if they are reinforced with a fat coating of solder. I am
going to be inclined to reinforce as much as I can without impacting
the aesthetics. I would probably go with the ring/wheel/cap Olympia
setup except the combo for a 4 inch set is over $50. At least on my
first few lamps I'm not going to be concerned with matching originals,
so that's just a little heavy on the cost.

I am going to go with your suggestions. A wire ring soldered in the
center and maybe the second lower cap sound like a sturdy but low
dollar solution. I also like the idea of soldering a thin wire around
the skirt.

Thanks again, Michael


I've made not hundreds but thousands of lamps. All had one cap on top
soldered into all the meeting leadlines. Haven't had one come back in over
30 years. But..................... I fix about 1 lamp a week that was made
overseas where the cap popped off. The most common reasons a the cap
was tacked in only a few places and the customer used a 200 watt bulb. By
all means do what you like, overkill is a good thing when you don't need to
make money on it.


--
JK Sinrod
www.SinrodStudios.com
www.MyConeyIslandMemories.com


  #20  
Old September 8th 07, 03:35 AM posted to rec.crafts.glass
Michael[_2_]
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Posts: 123
Default Worden and Odyssey Lamps

I got a big (for me) glass order yesterday. I was really excited.
Like a child on Christmas morning. My 16" Worden tulip lamp mold
came, too. I about passed out from shock when I saw it uses over 500
parts. Darn! I never imagined so many pieces. None of the cuts are
difficult. Just small pieces so accuracy will count.

I didn't see any recommendation on copper tape size. Maybe I didn't
look close enough. I figure 3/16". Does that sound right?

Thanks, Michael

 




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