[Ganoksin] [Issue #117] Tips From The Jeweler's Bench

The Ganoksin Project
S i n c e 1 9 9 6
Jewelry Manufacturing Methods and Techniques
http://www.ganoksin.com

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In This Edition:

1. Hermann Junger - The Jeweled Meadow
2. Modernist Jewelers in Los Angeles, 1940-1970
3. Burmese Sapphire Giants - Introduction to Burmese Sapphires
4. Optimising Gold Alloys for the Manufacturing Process
5. Tips for Expanding Your Arsenal of Polishing Tools
6. Soldering Many Parts at Once with a Pourable Soldering Jig
7. PMC - Molding Multiples
8. Product Testing - Ultra-Vest MAXX Investment
9. Orchid Gallery - Kim Eric Lilot

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The 9th Annual Tucson Orchid Dinner
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You are invited to an evening of learning and networking with
industry experts and international peers.

When:
Saturday, February 5, 2005
6:00pm Cocktails
7:00pm Dinner

Whe
The Savoy Opera House
6541 East Tanque Verde
Tucson, AZ 85715

Cost:
$35.00 per person (early registration)
$45.00 per person (at the door)

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In This Edition of Tips From The Jeweler's Bench
http://www.ganoksin.com/borisat/tip_sear.htm

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1. Hermann Junger - The Jeweled Meadow
By Ursula llse Neuman

Over the past forty years, jewelry making has become increasingly rich
and diversified as the time-honored reliance on precious metals and
gems has been augmented or even disavowed. After the Second World War,
jewelry artists more and more turned to intellectual and artistic
concepts as their starting points to provoke a reexamination of the
role of jewelry itself as well as of the relationships between maker
and wearer. Jewelry artists in northern Europe and the United States
led the way, and in Germany, Hermann Junger exerted a strong influence
on the development of contemporary jewelry both as an artist and
mentor....

Complete Story:
http://www.ganoksin.com/borisat/nena...ann-junger.htm

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2. Modernist Jewelers in Los Angeles, 1940-1970
By Toni Greenbaum

In the mid-twentieth century, studio jewelry activity centered around
two cities in southern California: Los Angeles and San Diego. There
existed distinct differences, in both educational opportunities for
metalsmiths and overall style between the two areas. This article will
concentrate on Los Angeles and its environs....

Complete Story:
http://www.ganoksin.com/borisat/nena...t-jewelers.htm

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3. Burmese Sapphire Giants - Introduction to Burmese Sapphires
By Richard W. Hughes and U Hla Win

Although it is rubies for which Burma (Myanmar) is famous, some of the
world's finest blue sapphires are also mined in the Mogok area. Today
the world gem trade recognizes the quality of Burmese sapphires, but
this was not always the case. Edwin Streeter (1892) described Burmese
sapphires as being overly dark. Unfortunately this error was later
repeated by Max Bauer and others. G Herbert Smith wrote...

Complete Story:
http://www.ganoksin.com/borisat/nena...-sapphires.htm

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4. Optimising Gold Alloys for the Manufacturing Process
By Dieter Ott

Standard yellow gold alloys which are based on gold-silver copper can
be used for many production processes. They could be called
'all-purpose' alloys. However, optimising the alloys for the particular
manufacturing process to be employed is possible by use of other
alloying additions which can influence relevant properties such as
castability and grain size as well as the mechanical ones, for example,
strength, hardness and ductility. Only a few elements (e.g. zinc,
silicon, iridium, cobalt) have proved to be useful additions for
modifying carat gold alloys without detrimentally changing other
relevant properties....

Complete Story:
http://www.ganoksin.com/borisat/nenam/gold-alloys.htm

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5. Tips for expanding your arsenal of polishing tools
By Charles Lewton-Brain

The mantra of polishing jewelry is the shinier the better - and
obtaining polishing perfection takes skill and practice. It also helps
to have the right tools in your polishing arsenal. The following are
some suggestions for tools and tricks you can use to obtain a better
shine....

Complete Story:
http://www.ganoksin.com/borisat/nena...shing-tips.htm

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6. Soldering Many Parts at Once with a Pourable Soldering Jig
By Charles Lewton-Brain

There is a great way of doing very complex and repeated solderings in
one go. This very important method uses casting and soldering
investment is to set up multiple solderings at once. The idea is that
you take clay (I prefer real clay, not plasticine - less oil and grease
present to impede soldering) and make a 'bed' of it, a slab. Some
people like to use a soft wax like 'BonBell' wax that covers small
round cheeses instead of clay....

Complete Story:
http://www.ganoksin.com/borisat/nenam/soldering-jig.htm

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7. PMC - Molding Multiples
By Suzanne Wade

Casting is one way to move into production, but you can also take your
first steps into multiples without mastering the intricacies of molten
metal. PMC's moldable qualities make it well suited for short-run
production. In producing multiples in PMC, you'll use the same
techniques used to transfer textures or to produce PMC components for
one-of-a-kind bracelets. If you can create a single piece by pressing
PMC into a mold, you can do it dozens of times.....

Complete Story:
http://www.ganoksin.com/borisat/nenam/pmc-molding.htm

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8. Product Testing - Ultra-Vest MAXX Investment
By Linus Drogs

AJM recently asked Linus Drogs of AU Enterprises in Berkley, Michigan,
to test the new Ultra-Vest MAXX Investment from Ransom & Randolph in
Maumee, Ohio. Designed to reduce the formation of gas porosity when
casting white gold alloys, as well as provide smoother surfaces on
castings made from resin rapid prototype model materials, Ultra-Vest
MAXX is a reformulation of Ultra-Vest, the company's standard gold and
silver casting investment. It promises to offer thermal stability under
severe casting conditions. Drogs and his staff at AU Enterprises put
the investment to the test in the shop. Their results follow....

Complete Story:
http://www.ganoksin.com/borisat/nena...investment.htm

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9. Orchid Gallery - Kim Eric Lilot

As an artist these are the realizations that I constantly face which
enable me to chanel my energy towards transforming those primal fears
into reminders of the beauty and diversity of life surrounding us
all....
Complete Story:
http://www.ganoksin.com/orchid/KimEricLilot.htm

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