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Building a kiln controller



 
 
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  #21  
Old February 10th 05, 09:40 PM
liam potts
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http://coil1002.livejournal.com

"nJb" wrote in message ...
liam

It looks like your controller of choice doesn't come in a K tc model.

Jack


I see that now the selection page before that states it does.


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  #22  
Old February 10th 05, 09:57 PM
nJb
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liam potts wrote:

maybe I am confused but I assumed one relay per element ?

http://coil1002.livejournal.com

"nJb" wrote in message ...
liam potts wrote:

I am looking to build a controller for my kiln its 240 30 amp
it has 4 240 6kw elements in it. I was thinking of using the Omega

CN1501
Series http://www.omega.com/ppt/pptsc.asp?ref=CN1501. I am a little

confused
on how many relays an output can control I assume its one for one but I

am
not sure. Any advice would be greatly appreciated

Liam Potts


An output can control more than one relay but I'm not sure why you would
want to have more than one.

Jack



Generally, a single relay is used to turn on all of the elements at
once.

Jack
  #23  
Old February 10th 05, 10:13 PM
Charles Spitzer
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"liam potts" wqdwqe@kjka wrote in message
...
This is strange liam. Why do you want to try to run a 100A kiln on a 30
amp circuit? Sounds like you're trying to run one element at a time. Not
trying to be a smart ass here, but I'm working on this round thing.
Think I'll call it a wheel. It's gonna be a big hit. Maybe I am trying
to be a smart ass. Seems like you're going about things in a complicated
manner.

Jack



Here is the deal I have a cress c-20-l its 240 30 amp kiln with four
elements and three manual controls one control is hooked up to two
elements
the middle ones. Excuse my ignorance but I figured if each element is
240vac
25 amps I would want to avoid having all the elements on at the same time.
So once again I assumed I would need a relay per element to avoid having
all
the elements on at the same time. I do agree I may be way over
complicating
things if I am please suggest a better route.


if you have a 30 amp kiln, then the sum of the element usages is 30 amps,
not 30 amps each.


  #24  
Old February 10th 05, 10:14 PM
nJb
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liam potts wrote:

This is strange liam. Why do you want to try to run a 100A kiln on a 30
amp circuit? Sounds like you're trying to run one element at a time. Not
trying to be a smart ass here, but I'm working on this round thing.
Think I'll call it a wheel. It's gonna be a big hit. Maybe I am trying
to be a smart ass. Seems like you're going about things in a complicated
manner.

Jack


Here is the deal I have a cress c-20-l its 240 30 amp kiln with four
elements and three manual controls one control is hooked up to two elements
the middle ones. Excuse my ignorance but I figured if each element is 240vac
25 amps I would want to avoid having all the elements on at the same time.
So once again I assumed I would need a relay per element to avoid having all
the elements on at the same time. I do agree I may be way over complicating
things if I am please suggest a better route.




Now we're getting somewhere. I doubt each element is 25 amps. Most
likely, the whole kiln with all switches on high draws 25 amps. Does it
plug into a 30 amp circuit? If so that is the 25 is probably the max it
will draw. Are you running single phase power? If so your kiln (not each
element)is listed at 22 amps.

So, let's say it does plug into a 30 amp outlet. Then you will build a
control box that your kiln plugs into. All kiln switches will remain on
high, the controller will do the rest.

Here's how I have done it:

Purchase a CAL9500P controller with SSR output List $225
a 40 amp SSR with heat sink, maybe $50
a metal box, $15
a plug to plug the box into the wall $15
an outlet to plug the kiln into $8
a simple on/off switch and fuse $5

Wire it all together and plug it in. My first kiln has a kiln sitter so
I use an 1800F cone to protect against runaway.

My second kiln has 2 controllers in the box. One just monitors for high
temp runaway.

Jack
  #25  
Old February 10th 05, 10:16 PM
Ron Parker
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On Thu, 10 Feb 2005 12:11:20 -0700, nJb wrote:
An output can control more than one relay but I'm not sure why you would
want to have more than one.


If you're controlling a US 220-volt circuit, you really should have
a relay in each hot leg.

--
#local R=7084844682857967,0787982,826975826580;#macro L(P)concat(#while(P)chr(
mod(P,100)),#local P=P/100;#end"")#end background{rgb 1}text{ttf L(R.x)L(R.y)0,0
translate-.8,0,-1}text{ttf L(R.x)L(R.z)0,0translate-1.6,-.75,-1}sphere{z/9e3
4/26/2001finish{reflection My opinions, nobody else's
  #26  
Old February 10th 05, 10:19 PM
nJb
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liam potts wrote:

http://coil1002.livejournal.com

"nJb" wrote in message ...
liam

It looks like your controller of choice doesn't come in a K tc model.

Jack


I see that now the selection page before that states it does.


OK, I tried the price thing with K and it didn't work.

I have 17 programs in my CAL9500P right now and have only used 51% of
the memory.

Jack
  #27  
Old February 10th 05, 10:20 PM
nJb
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liam potts wrote:

"nJb" wrote in message ...
liam potts wrote:

Ya I tried contacting them was a route I was considering still have not
gotten an e-mail

And it looks like if I can use the omega it will be cheaper


How much?

Jack


Looking like $200 at this point but hell by the time I get done with it and
all the frustration it might not be worth it. I am still not able to get
them to reply to an e-mail


You will be at least $350 into a controller if you build it but it's
worth every penny.

Jack
  #28  
Old February 10th 05, 10:22 PM
nJb
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Ron Parker wrote:

On Thu, 10 Feb 2005 12:11:20 -0700, nJb wrote:
An output can control more than one relay but I'm not sure why you would
want to have more than one.


If you're controlling a US 220-volt circuit, you really should have
a relay in each hot leg.


Why?

Jack
  #29  
Old February 10th 05, 10:32 PM
Ron Parker
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On Thu, 10 Feb 2005 14:22:30 -0700, nJb wrote:
Ron Parker wrote:

On Thu, 10 Feb 2005 12:11:20 -0700, nJb wrote:
An output can control more than one relay but I'm not sure why you would
want to have more than one.


If you're controlling a US 220-volt circuit, you really should have
a relay in each hot leg.


Why?


So that when the power is off, the power actually is off. Say, for the
sake of argument, that you have a microswitch attached to the lid, in series
with the controller output, to turn off the power when you open the kiln.

Say you're raking with a long metal tool.

Now say you only turned off one of the legs of the circuit. Guess what,
that element still has a potential of 110 volts relative to neutral (which
in most places is tied to earth) and is capable of putting up to 30 amps
through the shortest path between the tool in your hand and your foot on
the ground (or, if you have a wood floor, your hand on the shell of the
kiln, which is quite possibly also tied to neutral.)

--
plane{-z,-3normal{crackle scale.2#local a=5;#while(a)warp{repeat x flip x}rotate
z*60#local a=a-1;#end translate-9*x}pigment{rgb 1}}light_source{-9red 1rotate 60
*z}light_source{-9rgb y rotate-z*60}light_source{9-z*18rgb z}text{ttf"arial.ttf"
"RP".01,0translate-.6,.4,.02pigment{bozo}}light_source{-z*3rgb-.2}//Ron Parker
  #30  
Old February 10th 05, 10:39 PM
nJb
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Ron Parker wrote:

On Thu, 10 Feb 2005 14:22:30 -0700, nJb wrote:
Ron Parker wrote:

On Thu, 10 Feb 2005 12:11:20 -0700, nJb wrote:
An output can control more than one relay but I'm not sure why you would
want to have more than one.

If you're controlling a US 220-volt circuit, you really should have
a relay in each hot leg.


Why?


So that when the power is off, the power actually is off. Say, for the
sake of argument, that you have a microswitch attached to the lid, in series
with the controller output, to turn off the power when you open the kiln.

Say you're raking with a long metal tool.

Now say you only turned off one of the legs of the circuit. Guess what,
that element still has a potential of 110 volts relative to neutral (which
in most places is tied to earth) and is capable of putting up to 30 amps
through the shortest path between the tool in your hand and your foot on
the ground (or, if you have a wood floor, your hand on the shell of the
kiln, which is quite possibly also tied to neutral.)


I solve that problem by using a 2 pole definite purpose contactor with
all safety and overtemp devices wired in the coil circuit. It cuts both
legs before the control relay. On my small kiln I turn the manual
switches off before reaching in.

Jack
 




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