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Saga American Sampler/Advice on Frame
Thank you so much for all the wonderful, wonderful advise so far!!! Truly
could not have "begun to begin" as it were without it. It has come to my attention that I need a good, good frame. I have been using hoops, and that is hell on Linen. My Husband made a little frame, but not good enough (bad tension). So, I need advise on a very good scroll frame and stand. Been wanting/needing one AND if I am going to invest all this time and everyones effort, might as well "do it right"! Some questions to start: Should I get the scroll frame that have slots? Or the fabric tabs one sews the piece to? How does one control the tension on the sides? Clips with elastic type "thingys"? Any suggestions for brand names? Thank you so very much!!!!! Paula C. Hunter |
#2
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Paula,
I have K's Creation Perfect Tension Bars for my scroll rods. These are nice as you can release the Tension on your work easily. I have one set of original wood side bars and 2 sets of the Elite. I love them and no affiliation. You can order them directly from K's if you need to. http://www.kscreations.com/acc_perfecttension.htm HTH Bobbie V. |
#3
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On 1/11/04 8:24 AM,"Queen City Cross Stitcher"
posted: Paula, I have K's Creation Perfect Tension Bars for my scroll rods. These are nice as you can release the Tension on your work easily. I have one set of original wood side bars and 2 sets of the Elite. I love them and no affiliation. You can order them directly from K's if you need to. http://www.kscreations.com/acc_perfecttension.htm Me, too - have the Elite Perfect tension bars. You can get a set, and multiple side bars if you like - switching the tensioning gizmos - they are like end-caps on one end of the side bars. I have a 10" set and a 12" set. It's very nice because it's so quick to release the tension in the fabric a bit, and then tighten back up when you're working on your piece. I use the scroll set mostly for large XS, CT pieces that would be awkward in Q-snaps, and I don't want to do in hand. Or, for long canvas pieces (like stockings, big bell-pulls). For most of my XS, CT work on linen I use the Q-snaps. So, if you want to use scroll bars, I second the recommendation for the K's Perfect Tension bars. Generally, if I'm using the scroll set, I use it in a frame - either my Baby Z lap frame, or my Stowaway Floor Frame - depending on the dowel width. I'm sure your sampler will come out beautifully. Check out what you can on the various frames, stands. It does make stitching in some cases go faster, or more easily. Happy stitchin' - Ellice - who doesn't work for K's ;^) |
#4
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I have one frame with slotted dowels (which I hate!), a full set with different
scroll rods and side bars with the fabric that you have to baste your material on (better than the slots, but I don't like sewing my material onto the basting tapes) and a full set of handiclamp scroll frames (which I adore!) The handiclamps use plastic peices that snap over the dowels to hold your fabric. The first time I put fabric on them, I had to adust it a few times till I got my tension the way I liked it, but I haven't had any problems at all since then.. I've asked my husband for a second set for my bday, since I have so many WIPs on the go.. LOL (But it is pretty easy to switch on and off the rods with the handiclamps.) Paula H Should I get the scroll frame that have slots? Or the fabric tabs one sews the piece to? How does one control the tension on the sides? Clips with elastic type "thingys"? Any suggestions for brand names? Thank you so very much!!!!! Paula C. Hunter |
#5
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It has come to my attention that I need a good, good frame. I have been
using hoops, and that is hell on Linen. What are hoops doing to your linen? I have used hoops on linen all my life, and have never had a problem. In fact, I have a Grip-it (I think that's the name) floor stand which holds my hoops so I can work on them two handed. Just curious. Olwyn Mary in New Orleans. |
#6
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Wrinkling it badly, and it is hard to press out. (Maybe I am doing
something wrong, but impossible to iron out is more like it) Paula "Olwynmary" wrote in message ... It has come to my attention that I need a good, good frame. I have been using hoops, and that is hell on Linen. What are hoops doing to your linen? I have used hoops on linen all my life, and have never had a problem. In fact, I have a Grip-it (I think that's the name) floor stand which holds my hoops so I can work on them two handed. Just curious. Olwyn Mary in New Orleans. |
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On Mon, 12 Jan 2004 07:05:16 -0600, "Paula C. Hunter"
wrote: Wrinkling it badly, and it is hard to press out. (Maybe I am doing something wrong, but impossible to iron out is more like it) Paula Wash the sizing out of your fabric before you start stitching. Then wash your project when you're done. Press it while it's still wet, and keep in mind that linen takes a *hot* iron. Darla Sacred cows make great hamburgers. |
#8
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Wash the sizing out of your fabric before you start stitching.
Aaaaarrrgh! I was always taught you never, never, NEVER wash linen before you start embroidering on it!!! Reason? The linen will shrink slightly the first time you wash it, at which time the weave will "pull in" enough so that your starting and ending stitches will be caught even more firmly, and thus are unlikely ever to come loose. Sometimes, pieces I have been working on for a long time look like a crumpled rag by the time I finish, but I rest serene in the knowledge that once it is finished and laundered, it will look beautiful. Just don't worry about the wrinkles until every last stitch has been put in, then wash and iron it the way Dianne says, and it will be gorgeous. Olwyn Mary in New Orleans. |
#9
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Olwynmary wrote:
Sometimes, pieces I have been working on for a long time look like a crumpled rag by the time I finish, but I rest serene in the knowledge that once it is finished and laundered, it will look beautiful. Just don't worry about the wrinkles until every last stitch has been put in . .. I really smiled a big smile when I read this. Embroidery - no matter what kind you are doing (ok . . . the exception is Japanese and other meticulous fastidious embroideries) often look absolutely horrible by the time you're through stitching. Once washed and pressed (face down) the embroidery comes alive - shining gloriously. The ground is pristine. The threads looking fresh and plump. Embroideries look doubly bad if you use that washable blue pen. That particular color blue just screams around either white or colors, and you wonder why on earth you ever started. I pre-wash if the fabric shrinks LOTS. On unknown fabrics, I often wash a test swatch just to see. But most fabrics we purchase has minimal (if any) shrinkage these days, so the advice above is good, particularly with some embroideries like padded whitework, French quilting, early methods of candlewicking wherein you NEED the fabric to shrink up. I've been so tickled to see you posting. Dianne |
#10
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Linen must be quite damp to press. So, wash your finished piece and
iron while still quite damp. Not dripping wet, but not almost dry. After washing and thoroughly rinsing, roll up the piece in a thick towel, squeeze out as much moisture as possible. Let hang 5 minutes or so, then iron with the linen setting - face down on a well-padded surface such as a towel folded once or twice. It takes a very hot iron to press linen. Some modern irons don't get hot enough and it will take longer. Quit ironing when steam is still rising. You want *some* moisture left, you don't want to iron it bone dry. Let it sit. Ironing linen, especially embroidered linen, takes time. If you're trying to press while you're still working on it, that is risky. Ironing can make oils and stains permanent. If it's wrinkled and you need to work in a wrinkled space, putting it in a hoop or frame should get those wrinkles out. You might see a "line", but that will come out in the final process. If you are leaving the hoop on in one space for months at a time, try not to do that. It can skew some finer cloths. But for the normal linen we use for counted work, you shouldn't be having this problem. I suspect you see the hoop marks and it is scaring you. Never mind them. They come out in the wash. grin Dianne Paula C. Hunter wrote: Wrinkling it badly, and it is hard to press out. (Maybe I am doing something wrong, but impossible to iron out is more like it) Paula "Olwynmary" wrote in message ... It has come to my attention that I need a good, good frame. I have been using hoops, and that is hell on Linen. What are hoops doing to your linen? I have used hoops on linen all my life, and have never had a problem. In fact, I have a Grip-it (I think that's the name) floor stand which holds my hoops so I can work on them two handed. Just curious. Olwyn Mary in New Orleans. |
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