pot melts

It's finished and didn't turn out too bad. I have a fair amount of bubble
dimples on the top so apparently I need to hold the ramp down at 1500 for
more than 30 min. I wonder if 1550 would be better.
I have a few strange marks on the back that I guess came from the terra
cotta saucer.
http://www.clearwaterglass.com/aperture_pour_test.htm

I'm looking for something more dramatic looking then these really fine
rings. The wire melt looks interesting. I have a roll of wire fencing that
might work. While the wire is thinner I don't think it is galvanized. If
the holes are too big I guess I could just double it over.
http://www.clearwaterglass.com/wire_mesh_melt.htm

--
Connie Ryman
Cryman Studio

"nJb" wrote in message
...
C Ryman wrote:

The pot melt I'm talking about is melting glass in a terra cotta pot
suspended over the kiln shelf. The glass drains out of the hole in the
bottom of the pot. I'll be doing one later today.


Let us know how it goes.

--
Jack

bobo1148atxmissiondotcom


http://www.glassartguild.com/gallery/jack_bowman

Glassman wrote:
"nJb" wrote in message
...

Mike Firth wrote:

Okay, I'll bite, what's a pot melt - from your point of view?


AKA aperture pour. Melting colored glass and have it flow through an
orifice onto the kiln shelf. Probably half of my work uses pot melts
right now.

--
Jack



Can you describe your procedure, and what you do for controlling where
it goes and such? Looks like fun.



This link, posted by Connie, describes it very well.

http://www.clearwaterglass.com/aperture_pour_test.htm

Mine is pretty much the same.

--
Jack

bobo1148atxmissiondotcom


http://www.glassartguild.com/gallery/jack_bowman

"C Ryman" wrote in message
news:idAVf.2211$qm2.1981@trnddc03...
It's finished and didn't turn out too bad. I have a fair amount of bubble
dimples on the top so apparently I need to hold the ramp down at 1500 for
more than 30 min. I wonder if 1550 would be better.
I have a few strange marks on the back that I guess came from the terra
cotta saucer.
http://www.clearwaterglass.com/aperture_pour_test.htm

I'm looking for something more dramatic looking then these really fine
rings. The wire melt looks interesting. I have a roll of wire fencing
that
might work. While the wire is thinner I don't think it is galvanized. If
the holes are too big I guess I could just double it over.
http://www.clearwaterglass.com/wire_mesh_melt.htm

--
Connie Ryman
Cryman Studio


WOW I really enjoyed that Connie! Now I have something to do the next
time business is slow and I'm ready to slit my wrists! Some of your stuff
looks like Rondels. I thought Rondels were somehow spun?


--

JK Sinrod
www.sinrodstudios.com
www.MyConeyIslandMemories.com

Well, it is one of the choices I had in mind. The method is used to feed
glass into a mold - essentually a ceramic funnel - although there most of
the glass is one color in chunks with modest amounts of accent colors.
Looks interesting.

--
Mike Firth
Furnace Glassblowing Website
http://users.ticnet.com/mikefirth/
"C Ryman" wrote in message
news:m8TUf.8$qm2.5@trnddc03...
The pot melt I'm talking about is melting glass in a terra cotta pot
suspended over the kiln shelf. The glass drains out of the hole in the
bottom of the pot. I'll be doing one later today.

--
Connie Ryman
Cryman Studio

"Mike Firth" wrote in message
...
Okay, I'll bite, what's a pot melt - from your point of view?

--
Mike Firth
Furnace Glassblowing Website
http://users.ticnet.com/mikefirth/
"nJb" wrote in message
...
C Ryman wrote:

Does anyone know a good temperature - schedule for pot melts?


I use 1550 to 1800 depending on the effect I want. Most common is 1650.

--
Jack

bobo1148atxmissiondotcom


http://www.glassartguild.com/gallery/jack_bowman

Hi JK,
Glad you liked the web sites, though they are not mine.
Yes, roundels are usually made by the hot glass workers.
My glass turned out looking like a roundel because I had the glass drip down
into a kiln washed terra cotta saucer. The kind that goes under the planter
to hold the excess water. That way the glass does not wander around on the
kiln shelf. I don't want it to stick to the kiln furniture, bricks or end
up on the floor of the kiln. The floor of my kiln is covered with a coating
of kiln wash but it could probably stand another layer after all these
years. If I didn't want a round circle I could use some of those (I can't
think of the name) bars to make a square or rectangular shape.
Hope you enjoy playing around with it.
--
Connie Ryman
Cryman Studio

"Glassman" wrote in message
...

"C Ryman" wrote in message
news:idAVf.2211$qm2.1981@trnddc03...
It's finished and didn't turn out too bad. I have a fair amount of
bubble
dimples on the top so apparently I need to hold the ramp down at 1500 for
more than 30 min. I wonder if 1550 would be better.
I have a few strange marks on the back that I guess came from the terra
cotta saucer.
http://www.clearwaterglass.com/aperture_pour_test.htm

I'm looking for something more dramatic looking then these really fine
rings. The wire melt looks interesting. I have a roll of wire fencing
that
might work. While the wire is thinner I don't think it is galvanized. If
the holes are too big I guess I could just double it over.
http://www.clearwaterglass.com/wire_mesh_melt.htm

--
Connie Ryman
Cryman Studio


WOW I really enjoyed that Connie! Now I have something to do the next
time business is slow and I'm ready to slit my wrists! Some of your stuff
looks like Rondels. I thought Rondels were somehow spun?


--

JK Sinrod
www.sinrodstudios.com
www.MyConeyIslandMemories.com

"C Ryman" wrote in message
news:m8TUf.8$qm2.5@trnddc03...
The pot melt I'm talking about is melting glass in a terra cotta pot
suspended over the kiln shelf. The glass drains out of the hole in the
bottom of the pot. I'll be doing one later today.

--
Connie Ryman


One last dumb question. Since it's so much glass mixing together at high
temps, do we need to be cautious about compatibility, or can we just throw
in a bunch of mixed scrap into the soup?

--

JK Sinrod
www.sinrodstudios.com
www.MyConeyIslandMemories.com

"nJb" wrote in message
...
Glassman wrote:
"C Ryman" wrote in message
news:m8TUf.8$qm2.5@trnddc03...

The pot melt I'm talking about is melting glass in a terra cotta pot
suspended over the kiln shelf. The glass drains out of the hole in the
bottom of the pot. I'll be doing one later today.

--
Connie Ryman



One last dumb question. Since it's so much glass mixing together at
high
temps, do we need to be cautious about compatibility, or can we just
throw
in a bunch of mixed scrap into the soup?


We have to be cautious about compatibility because it is not mixing
nearly enough to become one COE. In fact, compatible glass (some of the
colors) can shift due to the high temps.

--
Jack


Yup.... my first attempt has a million hairline cracks in it. I used a
stainless steel plate and the kiln wash is all brown and stuck to the
bottom. Is there anything that won't stick to the bottom?


--

JK Sinrod
www.sinrodstudios.com
www.MyConeyIslandMemories.com

Glassman wrote:

"nJb" wrote in message
...

Glassman wrote:

"C Ryman" wrote in message
news:m8TUf.8$qm2.5@trnddc03...


The pot melt I'm talking about is melting glass in a terra cotta pot
suspended over the kiln shelf. The glass drains out of the hole in the
bottom of the pot. I'll be doing one later today.

--
Connie Ryman



One last dumb question. Since it's so much glass mixing together at

high

temps, do we need to be cautious about compatibility, or can we just

throw

in a bunch of mixed scrap into the soup?


We have to be cautious about compatibility because it is not mixing
nearly enough to become one COE. In fact, compatible glass (some of the
colors) can shift due to the high temps.

--
Jack



Yup.... my first attempt has a million hairline cracks in it. I used a
stainless steel plate and the kiln wash is all brown and stuck to the
bottom. Is there anything that won't stick to the bottom?



Drop onto a washed shelf or better yet use 1/32" fiber.

--
Jack

bobo1148atxmissiondotcom


http://www.glassartguild.com/gallery/jack_bowman

On Mon, 27 Mar 2006 19:09:50 GMT, "C Ryman"
wrote:

Hi JK,
Glad you liked the web sites, though they are not mine.
Yes, roundels are usually made by the hot glass workers.
My glass turned out looking like a roundel because I had the glass drip down
into a kiln washed terra cotta saucer. The kind that goes under the planter
to hold the excess water. That way the glass does not wander around on the
kiln shelf. I don't want it to stick to the kiln furniture, bricks or end
up on the floor of the kiln. The floor of my kiln is covered with a coating
of kiln wash but it could probably stand another layer after all these
years. If I didn't want a round circle I could use some of those (I can't
think of the name) bars to make a square or rectangular shape.
Hope you enjoy playing around with it.

Thanks for posting the links, particularly the one about the
wiremelt!! Hadn't thought of that method of directing the glass yet.
Also like the idea of using a terra kiln-washed flower pot as the
mold. Tired of buying or making "special" molds.
I've been doing smaller Potmelts (2+ inch diameters finished) for
about 2 weeks now, with some very nice successes.
One trick is varying the size of the drain hole. Best so far is with
1/4" hole.
I've been getting best results with a moderately fast ramp (hour) to
1400F, holding it 10 minutes, and then going to 1700F and holding it
there for 10 minutes. I usually check at that point briefly to see if
all the glass has drained, or if there's been a problem.
One caution : be careful using the same pot more than 5 or so times.
Repeated used causes fatigue, and the pot will break, spilling molten
glass where you don't expect it.
Also, if you live in the SW states, be careful using the small pots
from Mexico - much of the clay used doesn't stand up to higher
temperatures.
I'm going to try some Potmelts with mutiple holes, perhaps a
triangular arrangement, blending different colors at each corner.
Has anyone else tried this?
Any other multiple-hole Potmelt arrangements?
-RBClark

"C Ryman" wrote in message
news:m6vYf.20518$qe7.19785@trnddc04...
I'm glad your having good results. Unfortunately, I'm having kiln
problems.
My largest kiln is an old ceramics kiln. It took over 8 hours for a 4
hour
schedule with the controller erroring out once. I can't afford a new kiln
right now but I may look into new elements.

The wire melt was very interesting. I should stay away from dark colors
like purple and add more white.

Connie,
Have you looked inside while your kiln is running to be sure all the
elements are working and orange and about the same color? Depending on your
controller, can you hear or feel the relays working? Kilns are not
difficult to rebuild, and far, far cheaper than replacing.