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#1
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Help adjusting bodice, please? (long)
It's me again! The one with the pear-shaped DD!
I'm trying to get started on the Holy First Communion Frokk and try as I might, I can't put my scissors into the (cripplingly expensive) fabric! The pattern is a simple one: McCalls 2590. The pattern envelope measurements (in centimetres) a Size: 10 12 14 Bust: 73 76 81 Waist: 62 65 67 Hip: 76 81 87 Now, DD's measurements a Bust - 73cm; Waist - 71cm; Hip - 78cm. The hip measurement doesn't really come into it, as the skirt is circular and allows quite enough room for DD to fit into it. I'm *trying* to imagine a starting point to adjust a bodice pattern, but am stymied! For one thing, I don't know how much ease I ought to build in for the pattern I'm using. The only comparison I have is that a finished garment measurement of 80(10); 84(12) and 89(14) at the breast is given on the envelope. I'm thinking I should begin with the size 12 pattern and taper it out to a larger waist measurement. I simply can't visualise starting with the size 10 (which is, supposedly, correct at the bust and fails after that) and tapering out more than two sizes! The pattern calls for puffed sleeves and with extra width at the shoulders, DD is gonna look like a front-row forward (Rugby League analogy...)!!! The second part of my query is, how does one 'add' an overlay to a garment like this? I have some crystal organza with tiny silver stars on it and thought it might look nice... Now we're down to brass tacks (ie Those Darned Scissors!), I'm not sure how I deal with overlaying over the sleeves. It won't work on puffed sleeves, of course, and I'd thought to change those to a small cap sleeve. Do I simply make a second garment from the organza and tack it to the satin one in various places? Or give up on the idea altogether? Hoping someone has the patience to help me thread my way through this - I'm in a tizz at the moment and can't seem to find a starting point! =:-? -- Trish {|:-} Newcastle, NSW, Australia PS. I made a toile from inexpensive fabric and the bodice (a straight size 14 to allow for the large waist/tummy) is a tad too big at the waist and a good bit too big across the size twelve shoulders. The skirt is lovely and exactly what we want. I totally stuffed up the sleeves by drafting them myself and making them far too skinny. I think I can do better with those, but this *^$#& bodice has my teeth itching! Have pity! Helpp meeeeeee...... |
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#2
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Here is what I would do for that pattern.
I would adjust (shorten) the bodice to make sure that it fits all above the tummy---more of an empire waist. I would cut out the bodice pieces a size 12. (Allowing for a little growing before the actual ceremony) Cut out the skirt pieces size 14. Add length to compensate for the empire waist. Ease the skirt onto the bodice--like a sleeve. There's not so much difference between the two sizes, so if you use two rows of gathering stitches, you should be able to stitch the skirt onto the bodice with few if any noticeable puckers. For the overlay, I would choose smooth, set in sleeves. [see www.sewingpatterns.com and Simplicity pattern 5700] Cut the sleeve pieces out of only the overlay fabric. Cut the bodice and skirt pieces out of both fabrics. Baste the overlays to the dress fabrics and assemble the dress according to the directions. Finish the sleeves either with a very narrow hem or with a bias binding made of the dress fabric. You can also finish the neckline with the bias trim. I think this pattern will work out well for your daughter's figure. Good luck. Windy "Trish Brown" wrote in message ... It's me again! The one with the pear-shaped DD! I'm trying to get started on the Holy First Communion Frokk and try as I might, I can't put my scissors into the (cripplingly expensive) fabric! The pattern is a simple one: McCalls 2590. The pattern envelope measurements (in centimetres) a Size: 10 12 14 Bust: 73 76 81 Waist: 62 65 67 Hip: 76 81 87 Now, DD's measurements a Bust - 73cm; Waist - 71cm; Hip - 78cm. The hip measurement doesn't really come into it, as the skirt is circular and allows quite enough room for DD to fit into it. I'm *trying* to imagine a starting point to adjust a bodice pattern, but am stymied! For one thing, I don't know how much ease I ought to build in for the pattern I'm using. The only comparison I have is that a finished garment measurement of 80(10); 84(12) and 89(14) at the breast is given on the envelope. I'm thinking I should begin with the size 12 pattern and taper it out to a larger waist measurement. I simply can't visualise starting with the size 10 (which is, supposedly, correct at the bust and fails after that) and tapering out more than two sizes! The pattern calls for puffed sleeves and with extra width at the shoulders, DD is gonna look like a front-row forward (Rugby League analogy...)!!! The second part of my query is, how does one 'add' an overlay to a garment like this? I have some crystal organza with tiny silver stars on it and thought it might look nice... Now we're down to brass tacks (ie Those Darned Scissors!), I'm not sure how I deal with overlaying over the sleeves. It won't work on puffed sleeves, of course, and I'd thought to change those to a small cap sleeve. Do I simply make a second garment from the organza and tack it to the satin one in various places? Or give up on the idea altogether? Hoping someone has the patience to help me thread my way through this - I'm in a tizz at the moment and can't seem to find a starting point! =:-? -- Trish {|:-} Newcastle, NSW, Australia PS. I made a toile from inexpensive fabric and the bodice (a straight size 14 to allow for the large waist/tummy) is a tad too big at the waist and a good bit too big across the size twelve shoulders. The skirt is lovely and exactly what we want. I totally stuffed up the sleeves by drafting them myself and making them far too skinny. I think I can do better with those, but this *^$#& bodice has my teeth itching! Have pity! Helpp meeeeeee...... |
#3
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Oops! Adjust the overlay directions to treat the fabrics as one for the
bodice, but make an overlay skirt and a fabric skirt and attach them to the bodice. My previous directions would have had them attached at the side seams! "Sew-Sew Lady" wrote in message y.com... Here is what I would do for that pattern. I would adjust (shorten) the bodice to make sure that it fits all above the tummy---more of an empire waist. I would cut out the bodice pieces a size 12. (Allowing for a little growing before the actual ceremony) Cut out the skirt pieces size 14. Add length to compensate for the empire waist. Ease the skirt onto the bodice--like a sleeve. There's not so much difference between the two sizes, so if you use two rows of gathering stitches, you should be able to stitch the skirt onto the bodice with few if any noticeable puckers. For the overlay, I would choose smooth, set in sleeves. [see www.sewingpatterns.com and Simplicity pattern 5700] Cut the sleeve pieces out of only the overlay fabric. Cut the bodice and skirt pieces out of both fabrics. Baste the overlays to the dress fabrics and assemble the dress according to the directions. Finish the sleeves either with a very narrow hem or with a bias binding made of the dress fabric. You can also finish the neckline with the bias trim. I think this pattern will work out well for your daughter's figure. Good luck. Windy "Trish Brown" wrote in message ... It's me again! The one with the pear-shaped DD! I'm trying to get started on the Holy First Communion Frokk and try as I might, I can't put my scissors into the (cripplingly expensive) fabric! The pattern is a simple one: McCalls 2590. The pattern envelope measurements (in centimetres) a Size: 10 12 14 Bust: 73 76 81 Waist: 62 65 67 Hip: 76 81 87 Now, DD's measurements a Bust - 73cm; Waist - 71cm; Hip - 78cm. The hip measurement doesn't really come into it, as the skirt is circular and allows quite enough room for DD to fit into it. I'm *trying* to imagine a starting point to adjust a bodice pattern, but am stymied! For one thing, I don't know how much ease I ought to build in for the pattern I'm using. The only comparison I have is that a finished garment measurement of 80(10); 84(12) and 89(14) at the breast is given on the envelope. I'm thinking I should begin with the size 12 pattern and taper it out to a larger waist measurement. I simply can't visualise starting with the size 10 (which is, supposedly, correct at the bust and fails after that) and tapering out more than two sizes! The pattern calls for puffed sleeves and with extra width at the shoulders, DD is gonna look like a front-row forward (Rugby League analogy...)!!! The second part of my query is, how does one 'add' an overlay to a garment like this? I have some crystal organza with tiny silver stars on it and thought it might look nice... Now we're down to brass tacks (ie Those Darned Scissors!), I'm not sure how I deal with overlaying over the sleeves. It won't work on puffed sleeves, of course, and I'd thought to change those to a small cap sleeve. Do I simply make a second garment from the organza and tack it to the satin one in various places? Or give up on the idea altogether? Hoping someone has the patience to help me thread my way through this - I'm in a tizz at the moment and can't seem to find a starting point! =:-? -- Trish {|:-} Newcastle, NSW, Australia PS. I made a toile from inexpensive fabric and the bodice (a straight size 14 to allow for the large waist/tummy) is a tad too big at the waist and a good bit too big across the size twelve shoulders. The skirt is lovely and exactly what we want. I totally stuffed up the sleeves by drafting them myself and making them far too skinny. I think I can do better with those, but this *^$#& bodice has my teeth itching! Have pity! Helpp meeeeeee...... |
#4
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The pattern envelope measurements (in centimetres) a
Size: 10 12 14 Bust: 73 76 81 Typo here? Or is this really an uneven grade (73-76 = 3cm, 76-81 = 5 cm) Waist: 62 65 67 Hip: 76 81 87 Now, DD's measurements a Bust - 73cm; Waist - 71cm; Hip - 78cm. My personal choice would be to start with the 10, primarily because the neck and shoulders are so strangely graded on many patterns, and it's easier to deal with adding to side seams than it is to deal with taking it out of the neck and upper chest, imo. If she's light framed and clothes tend to look too big in the neck and shoulders on her, I'd even go down to an 8, then grade out the sides and waist. comparison I have is that a finished garment measurement of 80(10); 84(12) and 89(14) at the breast is given on the envelope. Trish, just looking at those numbers makes me uncomfortable, as that's not a whole lot of ease. In fact, it's fairly fitted. How does *she* like clothes to fit? Will this give her enough ease to be comfortable, and enough ease to grow into between now and when the dress is needed? Me, myself, and I, I'd probably trace off all three sizes onto plain muslin (calico?)-- salvaged chunk of bedsheet that's been starched and pressed is fine, just as long as the fabric is stable and straight-- red, blue and black ballpoint should be fine. Or anything else handy. Cut HUGE side seam allowances. Baste up the neck and shoulders in a 10, leave the side seams and armscyes flappin' in the breeze at this point. Try the muslin on her to establish if the 10 is right for her in neck and shoulders... if not, baste it up as a 12 and try again. Then try 14 if you have to. When it looks good up to the high bust, that's the size I'd start with. Now just plain baste up the side seams where they fit her, toss in the sleeve you intend to use (both sleeves, please!) check fit again, and mark your sewing lines. Take it apart, check right/left symmetry, measure the distances between your sewing marks and the pattern, then transfer the measurements to the pattern piece. From there, cut your $$$$ fabric. Again, I'd leave large seam allowances to help account for differences in drape between your fitting garment and your "real fabric". The second part of my query is, how does one 'add' an overlay to a garment like this? I have some crystal organza with tiny silver stars on it and thought it might look nice... Now we're down to brass tacks (ie Those Darned Scissors!), I'm not sure how I deal with overlaying over the sleeves. It won't work on puffed sleeves, of course, and I'd thought to change those to a small cap sleeve. Do I simply make a second garment from the organza and tack it to the satin one in various places? Or give up on the idea altogether? Your choice, two different effects. One is to treat it something like an underlining... cut and sew as if the two fabrics were one layer. Sparkle, not frouffiness. Seems more in line with the cap sleeve to me. Second choice: cut and sew separately, joining only at the armscye. More fluff. Possibly more useful to balance pear shapes and big skirts, possibly not to her taste. For even more separation of the two layers, you can cut the organza a smidge bigger than the "real sleeve". With a cap sleeve, I'd be tempted to make a copy pattern piece and slash from hemline to seamline at the armscye and spread the hem edge perhaps 0.5 cm, then cut the organza from the spread pattern. (armscye seamlength does not get spread). Do you know how to do a petal sleeve? How about petal or butterfly sleeves in just the organza, then use the organza elsewhere on the garment too for secondary accent, like "underlining style" over a sash, or a band near the hem? PS. I made a toile from inexpensive fabric and the bodice (a straight size 14 to allow for the large waist/tummy) is a tad too big at the waist and a good bit too big across the size twelve shoulders. The skirt is lovely and exactly what we want Ah, then, I should have read further... there's your answer... 10 or 12 in the shoulders, let the rest of the torso take care of itself. Kay |
#5
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Kay Lancaster wrote:
On Mon, 04 Aug 2003 23:46:05 +1000, Trish Brown wrote: friend and I will invent an armscye and sleeve (don't like the large puffy one in the pattern) and then fit the muslin bodice with sleeves in. AFAICT, all is Do you have a pattern with the same armscye position and a sleeve you like better? If so, just "borrow" that one. Kay Nah, I don't, but I hope my friend, PDC, does! She's bringing her entire arsenal of patterns to my place today and by this evening we will have one perfect Posh Frokk for FHC hanging in my living room. OR ELSE!!! PDC had the utterly *brilliant* idea of inserting pearl-beaded piping into the waist seam and around the sweetheart neckline I plan to make. Isn't that clever? I was worried the frokk would be too plain, but pearl piping will add just enough je-ne-sais-que to be Very Elegant! I feel good today! I can beat this frokk! Yeah I can! Will post happy dancingness when it's done! -- Trish {|:-} Newcastle, NSW, Australia |
#6
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Latest bulletin:
Today, we drafted a new bodice and *it fits* the DD! What we did was to slash the original pattern from the waist seam up to a point just short of the armscye (to avoid having to re-shape the sleeve) and swung the *inside* segment out by about a centimetre (to avoid having to reshape the side seams). Traced the outline and cut out of calico. Didn't alter the back yoke, since DD's back yoke is a standard size 10. Then, we found a nice little cap sleeve pattern in a size 6 among PDC's stuff. I spent a frenzied few minutes extrapolating that to a size 10 and we guessed it would fit our original armscye. It did! So, we cut out the sleeve as well and made our mock-up yoke. It fits!!!! Hooray! So, we went ahead and cut out the Holy Satin Fabric and it's ready to be stitched up tomorrow. Or as soon as I've recovered sufficiently to start doing so. I nearly had the vapours today, considering the uncharted territory we were sailing... We took a short break and shot down to the local Purveyor of Fabrique to buy some white pearl piping. We looked at satin ribbons and ribbon roses and silver gauze ribbons and said '?' to ourselves. But we decided that understatedly plain is The Go and so it'll be Just Pearl Piping and That's That. We had my homemade minestrone for lunch and laughed all afternoon, we were so pleased with ourselves. Anyway things are looking up. Moral support from the group has been *so* good! Thanks again everyone! -- Trish {|:-} Newcastle, NSW, Australia |
#7
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Sounds like things are working out well; congratulations!
"Trish Brown" wrote in message ... Latest bulletin: Today, we drafted a new bodice and *it fits* the DD! What we did was to slash the original pattern from the waist seam up to a point just short of the armscye (to avoid having to re-shape the sleeve) and swung the *inside* segment out by about a centimetre (to avoid having to reshape the side seams). Traced the outline and cut out of calico. Didn't alter the back yoke, since DD's back yoke is a standard size 10. Then, we found a nice little cap sleeve pattern in a size 6 among PDC's stuff. I spent a frenzied few minutes extrapolating that to a size 10 and we guessed it would fit our original armscye. It did! So, we cut out the sleeve as well and made our mock-up yoke. It fits!!!! Hooray! So, we went ahead and cut out the Holy Satin Fabric and it's ready to be stitched up tomorrow. Or as soon as I've recovered sufficiently to start doing so. I nearly had the vapours today, considering the uncharted territory we were sailing... We took a short break and shot down to the local Purveyor of Fabrique to buy some white pearl piping. We looked at satin ribbons and ribbon roses and silver gauze ribbons and said '?' to ourselves. But we decided that understatedly plain is The Go and so it'll be Just Pearl Piping and That's That. We had my homemade minestrone for lunch and laughed all afternoon, we were so pleased with ourselves. Anyway things are looking up. Moral support from the group has been *so* good! Thanks again everyone! -- Trish {|:-} Newcastle, NSW, Australia |
#8
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Congratulations, Trish. That's good news. I've been watching your bodice saga with great interest. I wish we could see the final product. Any plans to post it on a website? It sounds like the perfect dress. I would dearly love to do something fancy for the girls but between hand-me-downs (barely worn) and my mother-in-law's gifts, they seem to have more posh frocks than they will wear. I'm stuck making leggings and school clothes. I do have plans and fabric to recreate one of my daughter's favorite dresses. It was just a little sleeveless princess dress in a rayon flower print. It had a swishy skirt that tickled her (then) 5-year-old soul. She mourned when she grew out of that dress. I have a light blue rayon floral print that will match her eyes (the blue, not the floral part) ;-) and a dress pattern with similar lines. I just need to make it. I think for next summer as this one is waning quickly. Time to sew, I think. Marilyn in Minnesota Trish Brown wrote: Latest bulletin: Today, we drafted a new bodice and *it fits* the DD! It fits!!!! Hooray! So, we went ahead and cut out the Holy Satin Fabric and it's ready to be stitched up tomorrow. Or as soon as I've recovered sufficiently to start doing so. I nearly had the vapours today, considering the uncharted territory we were sailing... |
#9
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So happy for you and DD!
Emily |
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