Kiln sitters are not used here (Finland). As I understand it,
a kiln sitter is an emergency switch that prevents the kiln from
melting down. As such it is useful. You can set it to
trigger somewhere around 900 - 1000 C (1700-1850 F).

It may be used also to set a top temperature, where the kiln turns off.
I doubt it is accurate enough for glass work.

As long as you work under 6mm (½") thickness, the natural cooling
of a ceramic kiln works well. When your ambition goes
to 1-2" thikness you need a three men crew to monitor
the annealing days and nights.

-lauri

Michele Blank wrote:

you need to wedge the sitter open, (not use it), get a pyrometer and a plug
with a hole the size of the pyrometer to be able to have it in the kiln.
This may run a hundred bucks or so. After you get completely addicted you
will need a controller to plug the kiln into which will go 300 $$ or so.This
will eliminate the need for human tampering with on/off switches. m

"Gordon Watt" wrote in message
...
I've done a little bit of kilnwork before, but have never managed to get
access to a kiln regularly. A friend has offered me a loan of her ceramics
kiln (she mainly fires tiles) fitted with a kiln sitter.

I appreciate that this isn't the ideal method of learning, but at present
the possibility of regular kiln access is tempting. Is anyone using a kiln
sitter set up to fuse/slump/cast glass? I'm happy to experiment, and can
be
in attendance while I fire, but a few initial pointers would be great?
I'll
gladly post my results/progress for anyone in a similar position...

Gordon Watt
morningglass